510six

Well, at least your radio still works....I would guess that your fuel pump went out possibly from having a bunch of crap injested from the aggitation in fuel tank.Do you have video?

What kind of nut would stick a L28 et with 500+ rwh in a 510.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134 A 1978 Datsun 810 wagon would be the ultimate sleeper.The motor would bolt right in and a live rear axel comes stock, lighten the big heavy pig up a bit.

Is their any chance that the damaged cyl could be sleeved?

The R 180 worked great as a road race/autocross unit.But, would snap halfshafts during a hard drag launch and this was with Hoosier dirt track tires.With slicks and high HP the R200 or R230 is the only was to go if the IRS is what you want to stick with.I ended up selling the R180 with 4.11`s and buying a NISMO LSD and putting it in a R200 with 3.70`s.

I bought my unit through Motorsport Auto...it was around 800.But, has held up to a remarkable amount of abuse.you might try. http://courtesyparts.com/nismo/ http://www.reiderracing.com also sells LSD`s for R200`s I bought a LSD for a R180 from them a few years back.

My R200 with a NISMO LSD has held up to over 200 drag launches with slicks.This was spraying an over 200rwh shot of N20 off the line.I would just find another R200 and put a LSD in it. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134

My only concern with using a early IRS Maxima would be the trailing arm rear suspension.The rear tires tend to toe out and scrub speed off during a drag launch.My 510 has an almost identical rear suspension and it can be helped by sloting the rear crossmember bolts( among other little tricks).On the street my 510 with a 120rwh shot of N20 and Hoosier dirt track tires hooked very well.With 500+ rwh it didn`t hook nearly as well.I have always thought that the ultimate "sleeper" Datsun would be an early 810 wagon with a live rear axel, mabey a Ford 8.8 with LSD and traction bars .People would laugh until a serious hurt was put on them.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663 http://www.aempower.com Check all the options avalable in the Universal system.

I would suggest going with the 3 liter.The extra displacement and torque doesn`t hurt.A 3.1 89mm bore would make for some pretty thin cylinder walls The current and last 3 liter that I had built uses a 87.5 mm bore and 133mm Cunningham rods.I plan on making 300rwh on 15psi with methanol injection and 400rwh with more methanol with the liquid/air IC pumping ice water.And 550 rwh on a port dry N20 shot.The plan for the EFI will be a AEM EMS system as it has almost every conceivable option know to man.I would go with the bigger motor. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134

I used a Nap z 4wd tranny with a L series bellhousing in my 510. Behind a L28 then a L30 stroker.Worked great and lived through about 80 10lb bottles of N20.

You might look for a Porsche 944 turbo IC.They come up for sale on Ebay from time to time.

The most powerfull engine that would bolt up would be the L28et.From my experience on dragstrip duty the 5 speed zx tranny`s begin to fail after around 300fpt, with repeat usage on the strip.

I know of several clean 240`s. check your PM.

There are 2 little square plugs that fit into the rear main cap and if not install right or they have been damaged they will leak.I always coat the plugs lightly with black silicone.As far as the pan issue is concerned I ONLY use a NISMO comp gasket for the pan.It is a soild paper type gasket , use High Tack on the bottom and nothing on the top and it saves some major headaches.

"Is there a clutch type that would work well for both street and the occassional drag ". There sure is, but it`s not cheap http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=55c7.jpg&.src=ph http://www.10000rpm.com/

The pistons were coated by Raver Motorsports 559 733 4711.

It wasn`t cheap, around 1400.What kind of upgrade are you looking for?You might want to call Valley Friction as they custom make clutches. http://wp.smartpages.com/home/valleyfriction1;jsessionid=RAB0DIFQVCISJQFI22BBF2Q

It`s a unit with pre-broken in kevlar discs, the whole assembly flywheel included weighs 14lbs.The clutch is rated for 750rwh and uses 8.5" discs.I talked to several Pacific Street Car Association members who run manual transmissions in their drag cars and the clutch was highly recommended for a street/strip application. http://www.pscaracing.com/ http://www.10000rpm.com/

A pic of my dual disc kevlar clutch from 10,000 rpm for my 3.0 stroker with a T-56. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=55c7.jpg&.src=ph

It sound like the gear that turns the oil pump spindle may have cracked.They tend to do this when subject to repeated high rpm.The solution is to use a NISMO spindle gear set or a set of a 68-69 510 1600 motor.

I was looking to make around 400rwh with my T3/T4 60AR housing 62 trim wheel and a stage 5 exhaust housing that has been ported.A friend who owes me a few favors is going to be TIG-ing the manifold back together.I wanted to pickup some HP on the topend and this manifold with a decent cyl head port job should do the trick.The rest of the HP to make 550rwh is going to be added via N20.

A friend cut into a Non EGR N42 intake and did a great job. I will post some pics of the N42 head He also ported.I was told that the combination should up peak HP around a 1K rpm.I`m debating on powder coating the intake after it`s welded back together. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=5b2e.jpg&.src=ph

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=ddb7.jpg&.src=ph You mean kinda like this one?It`s an expensive upgrade,the only reason I went this route was I wanted a manual transmission and 500+ HP motor.I would stick with a upgraded T5 or a KA upgrade depending on the HP level.

I had a friend who ran a 100rwh wet single fogger on a bone stock 84z31 turbo and ran 12.7 @110 with a set of ET streets on the car.I can`t agree more with running the proper saftey systems when running a shot of N20.Nitrous and turbo`s go together like peanut butter and jelly.

Unless you are going to be running a huge HP engine the stock rods should be fine.If your looking for a reasonably priced set of forged pistons you might want to contact http://www.brcpistons.com/ as they made a set for me w/o rings or wrist pins ( I had both) for around 500.It gets expensive in a hurry building a 3 liter stroker.

My first 3 liter stroker used Z31 pistons, 240z rods and a diesel crank. The Z31 pistons have a pin heigth that is 6mm shorter than a L series piston.Z31 turbo pistons would work fine for a 3 liter turbo build.Z32dett pistons will also work but the rods have to be modified to fit the larger 22mm pin that are also full floating rather than press fit like the L series.