phil280zxt

I believe another safety feature of the ECCS controlled fuel pump is that power to the pump is shut off if the engine shuts down. Important in the case of an accident where you don't want the pump to continue running and possibly dumping fuel into the damaged engine bay.

You might also want to clean the ECU plugs. Reseat them ssveral times to clean off any corrosion.

I've never seen a drain on a 280zx gas tank. You'll have to suction the fuel out of the tank via the filler hose or disconnect the fuel line, hook up your fuel pump to a constant battery source and pump it out.

Have you cleaned and reseated the ECU connectors?

FYI, you can very easily move the pins from your existing connectors to the new 300zx connectors without having to splice any wires. Much quicker swap and obviously better then having a hacked up harness.

I'll check the FSM diagram tonight, but my notes say it is not used.

Blobber, pin 20 was empty in my 81 280zxt harness.

FYI. I also ran an 82 ecu with the stock 81 wiring harness with the dropping resisters still plugged in without any issues. I recently completed the Z31 ecu swap and retained the 81 external resistors.

I'm not familiar with your particular setup, but the fuel pressure drops to zero over night on my 280zxt. When starting it cold, I always turn the key to "on" first without engaging the starter until the fuel pump shuts off, which is normally 5 seconds. This builds fuel pressure and she always starts on the first try after that.

Duo, my ECU connector issue was intermittent. I could go several hundred miles with no issues. Then one day it would start and progressively get worse. It happened one time several years ago on an extended trip. First the feeling that a large hand was holding the car back when trying to accelerate. Over the course of the next few hours it had degraded to the point where I had trouble maintaining highway speed while going up hill. I eventually pulled over, reseated the plugs a few times and the car ran like new for the rest of the trip. I have to say that since the swap I have not felt the car held back at all. If anything it is much more responsive then before. Only time will tell whether these connectors have completely eliminated this issue.

Milen, someone posted this as a possible solution to the change in O2 sensor http://sales.nightrider.com/12mm-18mm-Stainless-Steel-O2-Bung-Adapter_p_48.html Are you have to do any wiring changes to swap over to the 87-89 ear O2 sensor?

That's the same process I used Duo. It's fairly easy once you get the hang of it. I straightened out one leg of a paperclip and flattened it with a hammer until it fit into the connector opening. FYI, I've put about 800 miles on my swap and my Z has never run better. Better idle, smoother acceleration and quicker accelleration. I won't comment on any perceived HP increase, but it does seem to move along quite nicely now....

Curious to know what you were using the tee fitting for on the hose Ioy?

FYI. There is a emergency pop off valve on the intake manifold that will open around 9 psi. You will need to close it off or buy an aftermarket ajustable version before you turn the boost up much higher.

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