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Zerrari GTO

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Posts posted by Zerrari GTO

    1977 Trans am 25,000!?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/car/641246024.html

     

    This is just insane. What do you guys think this thing is worth, actually these cars in general. I was thinking 6-7000$ at the very most. The only trans am I have seen sell for anywhere near that had less than 100 miles on it and was in storage from day one and never registered.

     

    How about one for $129,900!!!

    http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/Portals/yodnn/Home/tabid/54/Default.aspx

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I have not posted in some time and have gone either nuts or full circle on my 250 GTO project by switching to another doner car. I bought the car for $450.00 last year because it was an incomplete restoration with a lot of parts and a complete $500.00 exhaust system beginning with a Motor Sport ceramic coated header. I have mounted an Arizona Z manifold and the 390 CFM Holley topped by low profile B&M aluminum air filters that have the square weber style filters on each side. The car will have an overdrive Maxima transmission that I bought for $250.00 and transfered that engine to an even cheaper Maxima with a 5 speed. The beater Maxima requires the cv joints and R 200 diff from a ZXT parts car now. Try to find a R 180 diff out of a Maxima that has cv joints. I will take the air conditioning system and water radiator from a ZXT parts car. It should fit. The dash is out of the ZXT and the dash is out of the 250 Project which should make the plumbing easier. The after market air conditioner is held together with a prayer and hose clamps. I will pick and choose the air conditioning parts and there is probably some of the interior ZX air parts that will not fit the interior of the Z project. I will lay up a Rod Simpson dash in a mold made when Mark Wagner loaned me his VR dash as the "buck" model for the Rod Simpson styled dash to splash and make my mold. I will have photos later..................

     

    I'm glad your back....can't wait to hear the "new donor" story.

     

    How did your headlight cover trim rings turn-out? Please post pics of how you fabricated them.

     

    Looking forward to seeing pics of your project.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Mine was bad too guys. I purchased the car already complete and the bonnet alone has without a doubt received the most attention during the rebuild (My car is a cross between an old Alpha kit and a newer VR front end). It's the only part of the car that is not finished. Still need to do final fit and then paint. I've had to modify the hood bracket. The "H" design was too weak and had too much flex for my liking. I re-designed it to be an "X". Offering much more strength. The back edge along the winsheild varied in thickness and needed to be trimmed then contoured to better fit the shape of the car. The underside just in front of the wheels also required trimming to avoid contact between the tires and just match up the two sides (a cardboard template worked great). And then I filled and block sanded, again and again and again... Other modifications, but not neccesary, include "D" holes for airscoops, raised centre to accommidate a higher intake madifold (Edelbrock Pro Flo EFI), mounting brackets for the hood latches (KingAir engine cowl latches). I also cleaned up the underside with two coats of undercoating and an aluminum heat shield for the engine compartment (too prevent the heat from warping the fiber glass and damaging the paint).

     

    Thanks for the feedback and the pics. I need all the inspiration I can get...been getting a bit frustrated at my lack of progress lately.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    We had a couple of warm days here in Oswego, NY. Got the itch to start working on the VR again. I am too the point where I am ready to put the latches in the hood, I have Chrome pin latches, but they don't pull the sides of the hood close to car. I see that the old GTO's used straps, anyone got any ideas?? TIA.

     

    DJ

     

    Have you had any progress fitting the bonnet on your car?

    It looks as though mine will need some work too. The sides are sticking out a bit and it looks as though some work will be needed to make it fit properly -every F#@&*'in panel on my kit except the windshield cap has needed to be cut and refit so far :(. I started with a nice straight donner so I've been pretty disapointed with how the parts have lined up. If I can't get things the way I want them, I may consider a front end from one of the other GTO kits.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Somebody asked for pics of my hood hinges. Here they are. I ended up using two sets of 280Z hinges to make it all work.

     

    The body is an Alfa kit. The guy I got it from had a Datsun repair shop in Huntington beach near the original Alfa factory. They traded some work for the kit and installation. The front trim and headlight rings came with the car.

     

    Thanks for the pics Sid.

    Your car looks great... but your avatar looks U G L Y!

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    ZGTO Be careful of the Cobra seats, and what they are made of. I had them in the FFR Cobra I built and they were made of fiberglass. With a mild 5.0 Ford gt engine they flexed badly under hard acceleration. I don't think they will last.

     

    Thanks for the warning staledale.

    The ones I mentioned earlier say they have a steel tube frame: http://www.subesports.com/products/cat/Seats/brand/Cobra/prodID/1896

    If I go with a Cobra replica type seat it will be reupholstered to match the interior so while I've got it apart I could weld/bolt-in a mechanism for a head rest...nothing is simple!

     

    By the way, looks like a nice GTO Sidwell. Welcome to this thread...where we obsess about things like...seats, LOL. How about some more pics and more information.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Danka ZGTO, the Classic Cobra replica seat has struck my interest, and only 19 inches wide. I may have to do a little salvage yard hunting as well.

     

    dj

     

    After reinforcing the inside of the rocker panels and adding the support braces from the rocker to the rear shock towers, space does start to get tight in the seat area. The 19" width may be the selling point for me on the Cobra replica seats.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Here is a link to a compilation of aftermarket seat that fit Miatas (Miata seats are said to be good fits for early Z cars)

    http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/seats.asp

     

    Most of these are too modern for me but it's a good list.

     

    Here is a link to an AC Cobra seat that can be used with a head rest: http://www.cobraspares.com/seats.htm

     

    I remember a thread on this site that had an aftermarket Z seat from Japan that resembled a Ferrari Dino seat (it has a headrest!). I'll see if I can find it.

     

    The best case senario for me would be to find an OEM seat with a 60's style. The quality is much better than aftermarket seats and I could have it recovered to match the rest of the interior. I've looked at MG, Triumph, Alpha...please let me know of anything else you guys come up with.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Supportive of your torso maybe but they do not appear to be supportive of your head and neck. I worked in road safety research in the 70s and analysed many medical and autopsy reports related to neck injuries. People may tend to forget what a significant factor headrests have been in reducing neck injuries. Without headrests a fairly light rearend impact can cause severe neck and spinal injuries. If it is a show car by all means fit vintage seat but if you intend to drive it regularly I would recommend you seriously consider seats with headrests. Perhaps those styles with a removable headrest that can be fitted for driving.

     

    Ayrton Senna, and many others, died from the mass of their head and helmet ripping their head from the top of their spinal column. These are extreme cases but any spinal injury is serious.

     

    Sorry to be so grim about this but those low-back seats really give me the creeps.

     

    espeery - That is the Nardi steering wheel I have and I managed to track down a Ferrari horn button for it in Belgium. If you send me a PM I'll give you the details. Love your dash.

     

    ...Gulp...I'll look for seats with a headrest!

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Still waiting for the snow fall in NY to drop to less than 4 ft before building again. I am ready to start looking for seats for my VR. I know its a matter of what the builder wants to put in them, but curious what some of you's guys did. I still have the OEM 280Z seats and could dye black, but am looking at maybe something like Recaro seats or similar clone with 5 point harness. The original GTO seats did not have much safety designed in them.

     

    Possibly a question to keep the board moving.

     

    dj

     

    I've tried some nice OEM seats in my car (had some Alfa Romeo Spider seats that were very comfortable and supportive) but in the end those seats just did not look right in the car. I really want this car to have an origional vintage look/feel; the more modern seats just made it look like a kit car to me.

    These seats got good feed back from A/C Cobra builders: http://www.subesports.com/products/cat/Seats/brand/Cobra/prodID/1896. They were said to be supportive while keeping a vintage look.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I have been looking around for the right gauges that have the vintage race feel as well as gauges that resemble the original six gauge layout - one large gauge in the center and five smaller gauges. I decided to go with a 5" speedo in the center as opposed to the tach and five 2.25" smaller gauges. I drilled the holes and mounted the gauges in the removable Nacelle.

     

    Its taken me a lot of time to finalize the dash and gauge setup but I am happy with the results. Here are some preliminary photos of the fiberglass dash, gauges and Nardi steering wheel. I will be painting the dash crinkle coat black.

     

    I will also have a switch panel as seen in the pics which hangs from the dash. This panel will have the key ignition and various toggle switches. The only column switch will be the turn signal.

     

    The next step is to finalize the heater/fresh air dash vents.

     

    I took the car for spin the other day. That LS1 really moves!

     

    That looks great! Thanks for the pics and please keep them coming as you progress.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    About your hood breaking loose from the hinge. If it were me I'd use 3M's product for bonding steel to fiberglass first and then epoxy and glass mat over the top. To secure it while the stuff dries I'd run screws through the hood and into the steel hinge. This is the only way I see of getting a good fit without voids in the bond. After you're done bonding the hinge back on remove the screws and and fill and finish. JMHO

     

    The 3M product I have used is 3M Automix SMC/Panel Adhesive #08219

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    QUOTE]

     

    I emailed John Washington and found out I have the new style hood hinge which should have not failed. I'm attaching some pictures. Biggest question is how to get this thing lined back up to reattach it.

     

    To get things perfectly lined up I would put the bonnet on the car in exactly the position you want it and then attach/bond the hinge. You will need to use something to hold the bonnet in position. If you car hasn't been painted yet, duct tape or even brackets and dry wall screws will work.

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Hi Dan,

    I'm glade you have started participating on this thread. The knowledge you have from your Z build (extensive bodywork and V8 conversion) is a welcome addition. I have already taken from some of your ideas and incorporated them in my V/R. My removable panels in the trunk floor are a result of reading about your battery, fuel tank, exhaust install. Please keep the ideas coming.

     

    In the past I've read a couple of your comments where you mentioned you would like to build a V/R...are you thinking about taking the plunge???!!!:)

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Foam - I'm wondering if there is an alternative to expanding spray foam. I suspect that it has little shear strength and with the vibrations of driving I doubt that it actually retains a bond between the metal of the car and fibreglass panels. What is this process supposed to achieve? Does is provide strength or rigidity, or is sound deadening process, or both?

     

    I'm wondering if a more flexible material might not be better. Would, for example, firm seat sponge/foam adhered in place to the metal and compressed when the fibreglass is applied, or stuffed it afterwards, achieve the aim. Even fibreglass roofing insulation material. Any thoughts?

     

    Boy from Oz,

     

    I really don't think there is a better alternative to filling the void between the Z body and the V/R with expanding foam. If done properly and the void is mostly filled with foam it creates a very, very strong support for the tub. As John Washington mentioned in his V/R manual; it is the same process used on aircraft wings. The foam spreads the load of the tub evenly and does a lot more work than the connection point of the tub to the body. Even if at some point if the foam separates from the Z body, the fit conforms so closely to the Z sheet metal that I don't think it would effect the structural integrity too much. Because this is such an important aspect of the tub mounting, my biggest concern is with the quality of the foam used. You definitely don't want something that will break-down over time or retain moisture.

     

    Con Brio,

     

    I've been thinking about the same thing. I like your idea of the side latches and have been contemplating those. I've also seen some cool pin locks for the top of the bonnet but they don't lock (to keep curious spectators from checking things out) and then there is the issue of the bonnet bowing-out when you button it down.

    What I was thinking was to use the pin locks up top and then use a couple of key locks on each side of the bonnet to lock it down and keep everything in alignment. I have seen some retro key hole covers that would hide the key hole and look very respectable on the car. Here is one for an old VW Bus: http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com/Bus-Engine-Lid-Lock-Key-Hole-Cover-&-Seal-ca-0-pr-3456-pg-4.html. There also were some neat ones used on the old Chevy Corvairs (they show up on ebay fairly often).

    250 GTO Owners Thread

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Hiya, Fellers,

    I am not offended at all by those who think body filler of any type is not acceptable for their particular installation. I never said my way is the best way...it is simply a good compromise between labor, expense, and durability.

     

    I use the aerosol urethane foam from Home Depot myself. I've had good luck with it, it forms a nice closed-cell matrix that keeps water out of the foam, and if sealed at the perimeter you shouldn't have to worry about water getting between it and the metal.

     

    I'm sure the marine, two-part stuff is great. However, like with epoxy it is expensive. Plus getting it in all the voids is tough compared to squirting in the aerosol stuff. Again, I think aerosol foam is a good compromise.

     

    Hey guys, I hope you don't think I am trying to slam John in any way by what I'm about to say. He is a very nice guy who I have had several phone conversations with and exchanged countless emails. The key word in John's post is "compromise" and his suggestions are meant to be an alternative to products that are more expensive.

     

    As you all know, this project is not a "cheap date" by any stretch of the imagination. The cost of the kit, installing frame rail connectors, countless suspension mods, engine swaps, etc., etc. etc., so the last thing I personally would want to do is create a "weak link" in the construction.

     

    I am still very weary of using body filler as a bonding agent. If you ask any of the auto body guru's on HybridZ they will probably cringe at the idea. Steve Graber's V/R was the one that really got my "motor going" for this project after seeing his V/R website and photos of the completed car. Fortunately for me his car was sold to someone here in Atlanta and John was nice enough to contact the new owner so I could see the car and take a ride in it. When I arrived, the car looked good from a distance but once I got close I could see some bad stress fractures/delamination on the body were the tub was bonded near the rocker panels. I have no idea what Steve used but whatever it was... it did not last.

     

    The cost of the 3M Automix product that is specifically made for bonding fiberglass to metal is more expensive (about $200 for the whole car: door skins, windshield cap, tub) but I will happily pay the extra money for the peace of mind it gives me. Here is a good thread on the subject: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=80057. The key to using this type of adhesive is having enough surface area for it to be effective. I wound up fabbing a 3" fiberglass lip inside the tub for this purpose.

     

    As far as spray foam goes; I would not touch the stuff. I have experimented with the various types: "Great Stuff" etc. by bonding pieces of fiberglass together and was not impressed. When I heard it has a tendency to retain water, there was no way I was going to use it. The thought of foam full of moisture held next to the steel body of the Z car (even one painted with Por15) was not what I had in mind. The two part marine foam is more expensive...but not too much, and will give you superior performance (see page 15 of this thread).

     

    I simply have way too much money and sweat equity in the building of this car to use products that could significantly compromise the structural integrity of the body (especially when products exist that are perfectly suited for these applications). Once this thing is done, I do not ever want to second guess the choices I made...and I definately don't want to see any cracks or delamination like what developed on Steve Graber's car.

     

    My two cents.

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