Zerrari GTO
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Posts posted by Zerrari GTO
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Many of you fellow V/R builders have probably noticed that there is a long span of unsupported fiberglass where the rear tub crosses the back strut towers. I fabbed a brace with 4 levelers that bolts to the rear strut tower brace. The deck is curved so I needed something that would adjust to this shape. I'm sure there are several solutions to this but I wanted to post some pics of what I came up with for reference.
Rear deck unsupported.
Brace with levelers.
Brace bolted on to strut tower brace.
Brace with rear tub on body
As everybody knows...these kits are a bit of learning while you go! I hope this helps someone along the way.
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Saaaweeet! Nice clean install!
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Thanks for the link 'BfO'. I just ordered one for my rear hatch.
I'll let ya know if I can make it work once it arrives.
Regards.
How much was it?
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I know there is a another thread just on this topic but I think this thread is now the repository of all things 250 GTO. Anyway, I was trying to track down some fittings and came across these.
Go to http://www.usedferraris.net/ then click on "handles & locks".
They are about $100 apiece. That's a little pricey for this kid.
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Do you have the stock 280Z fuel tank?
I installed a RX7 tank so I could run the exhaust on either side and locate the mufflers above the suspension level. I also modified my front differential cross member like Pete's http://alteredz.com/exhaust.htm.
It can be quite a chore making the exhaust fit on a lowered Z chasis.
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You can buy adjustable coilovers from several sources and set the ride height where you want; but I think you need to raise your exhaust higher instead of the raising the whole car. Here's a link to pic's of my dual exhaust done by John Coffey at BetaMotorsports
I agree with Bartman. If your rear tires look good/fit right in the rear wheel wells you need to raise the exhaust. Otherwise you will be jacking up the car too high and it will not look right.
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I'm really sorry to see him go and it's a tough loss for Hybrid Z. I found his post informative, helpful and my project has benefited as a result.
Too bad a few chickensh!t punks ran him off.
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Thanks again!
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ZerrariGTO here is a picture of that stuff, I tried to glue it to my old V/R trunk. You can see it goes on real nice no kinks or twists, and it is just right for the height of the trunk lid. The top of the lid is level with the rest of the panel. I cut a peice for you to see the profile.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=15678&cat=500
The stuff you showed is for inside of the door jamb where the inner and outter metal meet. It is a harder plastic for edges.
I forgot to ask; what are the dimensions of that weatherstrip? Can you give me height and width?
Thanks.
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ZerrariGTO here is a picture of that stuff, I tried to glue it to my old V/R trunk. You can see it goes on real nice no kinks or twists, and it is just right for the height of the trunk lid. The top of the lid is level with the rest of the panel. I cut a peice for you to see the profile.
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=15678&cat=500
The stuff you showed is for inside of the door jamb where the inner and outter metal meet. It is a harder plastic for edges.
Thanks for the pics, I'll order some now. You are really saving me some "trial and error time"; I appreciate your help!
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Here is a D shaped gasket I used on the Cobra, If I can find a little bit of it, I'll try it around the Velo Rossa trunk lid.
Staledale
http://www.finishlineaccessories.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=60&products_id=62
Thanks Staledale, please let me know how it works. I'm a little concerned about how the D shape will bend in the corners; I don't want it to crease. I was looking at this stuff too: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2008663/p-2008663/N-111+10201+600003824/c-10101
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Hey Velo Rossa Builders,
I need to get some trunk weatherstrip for my V/R and I wanted to know if anyone could advise before I go through the trial and error thing of ordering various molding(s) until I find one that works.
It needs o be flexible enough to bend in the tight inner radius at the corners.
Please help!
Thanks.
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Hi,
Here's where I got my Cobra lights, I will use them again for GTO. They look good and check out the prices.....
I had L692 in the rear and L539 for the front. They have the gas filler at a good price also. Though I found a suppler for the Honda latch, but after three weeks they came back and said they can't get them any more...Damn
Staledale
Thanks Staledale,
I've been to their website several times and have decided on those trim rings and taillights. Do you have any pics of your installed taillights you can post?
Chelle,
Thanks for the follow-up. What gauge aluminium are you using for the headlight cover trim? You too Larry, what gauge aluminium did you use?
Thanks!
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Chelle, Speed, and anyone else with a source.
What type of trim rings did you use for your headlights? I know VW Bug or Karman Gia will work but I wanted to know what you guys used.
What type of license plate light?
Chelle- are you going to install headlight covers? If so, are you going to fab or have fabbed some trim rings for them?
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I purchased a set of Eagle GT Goodyears 26 inch for the front and 27 inch for the rear ie : P235/60R15 and P255/60R15 The Dayton crosslaces are 8"X15" with the rears offset greatly. The wheels came with my Blue Ray GT Engineering (Rod Simpson) now Stable Works kit Here are my pictures of the mounted wheels and tires( click GTO kit and scroll down to see more of my progress and wheels.. If anyone is interested I can measure the offset http://new.photos.yahoo.com/
I need to have your Yahoo Photo ID to pull up your photos.
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Zerrari GTO - Yes they are 15" Dayton wires. I used 8" front and 10" rear wheels on my car with Dunlop P205R70’s on the front and P225R70’s on the rear. They don't stick out but they sure fill up the wheel wells. The front wheels have a negative offset of about 5.5" and rear wheels have negative offset of 8".
Thank you sir!
I really like the way your wheel/tire combo looks and I'm sure I will go with a similar set-up.
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Since the rims are very wide the tires look great installed and look like they match the car - i.e. not to wide but not to narrow either.
Speed,
From the photos of your car the rims look like Daytons; is that correct?
Are they 8" up front and 10" in the rear?
Do you have any offset information?
Thanks!
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Thank you sir. Looks good!
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Brian,
Where did you get the battery tray and hold-down?
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'chelle' - thanks for the info on the inner guards.
I'm in Melbourne for a couple of weeks and noticed this GTO replica coming up for auction in a few days. I might just drop in to see what interest there is from bidders. A standard 6 cyl one sold last year for $32,000AUS - that's about $26-27,000US
http://www.shannons.com.au/pages/auctions/lot.jsp?id=O391PAR7BLNB0R80#
That car is sweeeet! Even the semi-stock interior looks good with the GTO body (I'm not usually a fan of Z interiors with GTO bodies). Toyota V8 and the finish work looks great from the pics; let us know how it turns out.
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Zerrari -
You mentioned "GTO porn" I hope you mean that the way I took it as a the pics I posted being nice. I'm proud of what we built and hope posting more pics might inspire others to post more
Chelle
Chelle, I meant it in the best way possible. I have always enjoyed the pics of your car and am looking forward to posting a few of my own when it is complete.
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Well, after viewing some of Maichor's pics I can see how he trimmed the valance for this modification.
His VR build was really coming along nicely; I wish he would chime in on this post and let us know how it is progressing.
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I need to break away from Chelle's GTO porn to ask a technical question.
I am getting ready to bond the rear tub onto my Z body and wanted to know how I should treat the rear valance panel. John Washington's instructions require that the rear tub be secured with adhesive where the tub meets the rocker and door jam area. The rest if the tub is secured by filling the cavity between the Z body and the kit body with expanding foam. There is a gab of a few inches between the rear valance panels and I wanted to know if it was typical to leave the Z's valance panel in tack or cut out a portion.
The reason I ask is because I am planning on cutting out a couple of oval exhaust ports through the fiberglass and did not want to have to cut through sheet metal, a layer of foam and then fiberglass. There is a member here named Maichor with a LS powered Velo Rossa who made a similar modification but he has not posted in quite a while or answered any of my messages. Here are some pics of his: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96038 see near the bottom of the page.
Any feedback is appreciated.
250 GTO Owners Thread
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I bought the Alpha style dash but it will take much work to make it look/fit the way I want it to. After I get the fitment right and put in ac/heat vents, it will be covered in leather or neoprene material (UV, water resistant).