Zerrari GTO
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Posts posted by Zerrari GTO
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Whew - unless my screen name was changed to "Anonymous" I didn't post in that thread. I also don't remember reading it so, while a may have a few senior moments here and there, this was not one of them.
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I'm getting you mixed up with RacerX. I think I'm the one having the senior moment!!!
...But RacerX please follow-up on the 3M product
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Wow, I must have had another senior moment! I don't remember recommending that the bare metal be primed and I can tell you that was not what I did with my car.
Here is the link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=80057&highlight=bonding+fiberglass+metal
Here is the part about priming metal:
"3M Automix SMC/fiberglass panel adhesive part #8219; This is a 2part urethane adhesive use to bond FRP ('glass) body panels to each other and to metal frames - though the metal needs to be primed with a good 2-part primer (DP!!) 30 minute worktime - handle the part in 2 hours and cure time is 24hours".
You may have been refering to the 3M product specifically. Does that refresh your memory PopsRacer! LOL.
What product did you use to bond your door skins?
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Can I get one Duuuhhh!!
Of course you are going to bond the fiberglass panels to the outside of the doors so using metal prep on the outside would counter productive.
I ground the outside of my doors with a really coarse grit sandpaper which left a lot of deep grooves in the metal. The object was to enhance the bonding capabilities of the adhesive. So far it has worked since I have not had any delamination problems.
Speed,
In one of your post in a different thread regarding bonding fiberglass to metal you emphasized that bare metal should be primed and that adhesive should not be used on bare metal. What would be counter productive about having metal prep, then primer before bonding?
I have also considered using the stuff used to seal and refurbish the inside of fuel tanks to rust proof the inside of my doors.
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Anyway, Jim sold his molds to Tom Edwards over at Scorpion Z car http://www.scorpionzcars.com/ Tom has since sold the molds to OMS Sports Cars in England but the have the rockers as seen here http://www.omsportscars.com/Gallery/gtz_basic_kit-800x600.jpg I would check with Tom and see if he will sell just the rocker panels at a reasonable price.
Are you saying Tom still has an inventory of Scorpion parts? How do I contact Tom?
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The heads will bolt on 351W and 302 blocks. They have the same bolt pattern. But you have to modify them to work. Thats how you get the Clevor. Check this article out, it shows and tells how and what you need to do it.
http://mustangandfords.com/techarticles/30220_clevor_engine/
Yep, that's basically what a 69'-70' BOSS 302 is; a 302 with 351 Cleveland heads. Quite a few people have put 2V or 4V 351C heads on a 302 to make their own versions.
Modern aftermarket 351W heads flow better than the Cleveland heads and as posted above, the aftermarket for Windsor motors is MUCH better.
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SpeedRacer- still lookin for ideas...bump, bump.
Thanks
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Zerrari GTO - The Simpson (Blue Ray) rocker panels do not look like the ones posted by the Boy for OZ as they are very angular. They do tie into the rear quarter panels but not the front fenders so you can still unbolt the front fenders if needed. Speed
Speed,
The only kit car website I could find for Simpson was for these Miata based kits: http://www.simpsondesign.net. Is it Stable Auto Works? Are those rocker panel covers you mention still avialable?
Thanks.
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Speed
I tend to agree with you about the wire look. The Borranis and Daytons look best on the car style. This was just a pretty good deal and if the fitment was right... pretty tempting as a track set or for those weekends when you might want to mix it up.
Switching from knock-offs to bolt ons for special occasions will be a real pain in the butt.
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I just got the link with the writeup on rebuilding hinges to work and those are not the parts I need. I need the roller on the lower hinge that the spring arm rides on. Mine are very worn and the spring arm "pops" as it rides over them when opening and closing the door.
Any ideas?
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This thread has some part numbers in it, not sure if you are looking for these, it might help:
Thank you!
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just wondering.... where did you get that done?
How big a piece can they do? whole bodies?
I got my door done at a place called Econostrip. The guy who heads up the Georiga Z Club had his entire unibody done (at another chem strip place). He made a dolly for the body and they rolled the whole thing into the tank. Price is usually $2 per pound; my door cost $81.
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My door hinges may need some help. On the lower hinges (the ones with the spring) the little round cylinder shaped piece of metal that the spring arm travels on is deeply grooved with some indents. These cause the door to sometimes pop when opening and closing the door. I assume these little pieces used to be round and the indentations are causing the "pop".
Can these pieces be sourced to refurbish the hinges?
Thanks.
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I had one of my car doors chemically stripped to the bare metal to remove all paint, rust, grime, etc. The door came out very nice but now I need to know the best way of rust proofing the stripped interior of the door. How can I get to all the nooks and crannies inside the door.
I was thinking about sloshing some Metal Ready around in there but I wanted to know if there is a better method.
Thanks.
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Quote from Boy from Oz
"Change of topic, but very relevant to 250 GTO with twin REAR exhaust. Zerrari - I noticed elsewhere that you have, or intend to make, a front diff mount for twin exhaust. I am about to do the same. I have noticed this done elsewhere on HybridZ but it worried me that the two mounts had (apparently) been cut in a straight cross section in the middle and then welded. I think it might be a bit more structurally sound to stagger the section, the way A-pillars are cut and joined in a 'cut & shut". Any thoughts."
Boy from Oz,
To make the front diff mount fit you really need to cut a section out of one of them and then splice in the rounded part from another. This keeps one of the mounts pretty much intact. You could do this with one mount and cut out a section of steel pipe for the other rounded exhaust section.
Once you have two mounts side by side you realize the way the mount fits is not symetrical so you can't simply cut them down the center and weld them together.
My home computer crashed so my pics are not currently available but you can see a completed one on Pete's site: http://alteredz.com/exhaust.htm
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QUESTION: The rocker skins were never installed on my Alpha 1. Rather than ordering those... can I just prep the areas and apply fiberglass matte direcly to the metal and blend them with the other panels?
My Velo Rossa kit does not come with rocker panels. I was planning on ordering a couple of sheet metal replacement rockers and welding them over the existing rockers to match up with the kits front fenders and rear quarters. Has anyone done it this way? I want to be able to remove the front fender (cheek panel); in other words I don't want to mould it in.
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What manufacturer makes these valve covers for the SBC?
TIA
Speed- I'll bet you wish you had a dollar for every time someone asked you about those valve covers!
I hate to break it to you Darth...no can get.
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I'll be out of town...as usual. The weather is getting nice in Atlanta, maybe a little Z get together after the SEZ8?
How does it sound?
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I have them on my car. You've heard it run.
No I haven't. You're little baby has always been parked with the hood open by the time I arrived at the meetings:).
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Since I am doing the Ferrari re-body with a V8 I am going to run dual exhaust with some type of dual quad tip set-up. I've got an RX7 fuel tank mounted in the back which allows good access for duals on both sides (also added another cut out to the rear crossmember).
My plan is to have 2 1/4" pipes, a couple flow through type mufflers (glasspacks) tucked into the transmission tunel like I have see on several Z's followed by a couple more near the back. My question is this: To give the car the proper "look" I should probably use a couple resonated dual tips (Monza/Ansa type). The resonated tips look like they would cause a lot of restriction and I've never heard these used on a V8 and wondered what kind of sound they created. Can someone please educate me on resonated tips and what to expect if I do use them. All feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
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I emailed Bob Hanlon at Halon Motor Sports (T5, Temec transmissions); he said that the ONLY Redline product that could be used in a world class T5 is the Redline ATF called D-4. The Redline gear oil, 75W90NS, will not lubricate the needle bearings in a WC T5.
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Mayolives thanks for the information; your T5 is a non-WC so I need to be sure this will work in a WC T5. I pulled it up and the particular Redline you listed, (75W90NS), is GL-5 Gear Oil. Is this the type of redline gear oil everyone is using in their T5 (world class & non world class)?
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I've heard several people recommend Redline oil for T5 World Class transmissions but I'm still not sure what type of oil Redline is. Is this ATF, is it gear oil (what viscosity) or something else.
I know Dextron III or Moble 1 ATF is recommended but would like more information on Redline.
Thanks.
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I have a Target Master block with provisions for a dipstick on both sides. I figured I would put it on the passenger side since the brake & clutch stuff is on the drivers side but wanted to see if there are any issues for one side or the other.
...or I could do two chrome dipsticks! (bling, bling).
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^^^Exactly!!!^^^
Got my door dipped & stripped
in Body Kits & Paint
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Most of the places that do the metal stripping follow up the procedure with a rust inhibiting coating. The place that did mine used a water soluable coating so it won't last but some use a zink type coating that is more permanent. A lot of people will protect he insides of frame rails, etc. by filling them with a mixture: linseed oil, mineral spirits & japan dryer (often used to rust proof the insides of airplane kit components) and then draining it out to leave a coating.