Zerrari GTO

76S30, I could not agree more; that Harbor Freight contraption is a hand grenade! Do you have any advice as where to look for used equipment? I bought a good commercial stick welder from a rental store years ago but bought a new Miller MIG about 6 years ago (it's awesome). Any suggestions on where to find a good used TIG would be helpful.

If you can't find the right shims I thought this was pretty cool: http://www.5speeds.com/t5/shims.html

I have heard TERRIBLE things about Phantom Grip LSD set-ups. I'm sure somebody else will chime in about them but from what I understand they are little more than a spring-loaded piece of sh!!!T that goes into a stock open-style differential.

East Cobb County is on the border of Fulton County (Alpharetta) and the real estate taxes are less (my lot is an acre and I pay $1300 annually in taxes...small house) and the schools are good (I've got kids). I've lived in Alpharetta and now live in East Cobb; the big issue in Atlanta and the surrounding area is how close you are to work. Traffic here is some of the worst in the nation and can really affect your quality of life. I work in Buckhead and it's a good hour each way....sucks!!! As compared to California prices, the city of Alpharetta, East Cobb, the city of Woodstock and Cherokee Counties are going to be a dream come true for you. Try to get in-town while you are here. Virginia Highlands, Little Five Points and Mid-Town are fun.

If you can't find the Skyline lights you should be able to recreate that look using a combo of Ford Falcon and Corvair or early 70's Camaro taillights.

I just completed rebuilding my WC T5. The best and most complete rebuild kit I have seen is from The Gear Box http://www.thegearbox.org/page/page/3819132.htm. Their kit is a little more expensive but has all of the shims, etc. (the kit I ordered from Hanlon Motorsports did not have any shims but Judy at The Gear Box tracked some down for me). The rebuild video from Hanlon Motorsports was very helpful and guides you through a complete teardown & rebuild: http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/index.asp You can get the needed V blocks on ebay and a cheap dial indicator from Harbor Freight. Here are some other sources: http://www.ddperformance.com/t5_parts__upgrades.htm http://www.5speeds.com/

All I can say is...supercool! Those are awesome depictions of barnyard finds; you can almost smell the musty interiors. The work to recreate the faded peeling paint, rusty components and rotting interiors is awesome! To create a diorama all he has to do is place one of his models on some dirt or asphalt; truly amazing.

A mechanic friend of mine was talking about having the outside of a cast iron block machined to remove extra material for weight reduction. He said the result was a cool looking block that weighed about 20lbs less. Has anyone else heard of this?

YES to 1 No to 2 Have some balls...It will be fun!

I still can't believe that there is not a full tube frame kit for the GTO like the Factory Five Racing Cobra kits, Daytona kits, etc. Is it because the kit car companies are afraid of legal action by Ferrari? On another note; 16 days and two emails to Oliver at the "new" Scorpion Z and I still haven't gotten an answer about the fiberglass rocker covers. I've gotten the proverbial "I'll get back to you" twice so far but that's it.

When you get your strength back...Post Some Pictures! Can't wait to see it!

I'm leaving town today but will try and get you the info this weekend.

Hi Larry, Where did you get all your latch mechanisms? Let me know if you want to part with any. I contacted Oliver Meulbrouck at Scorpion Z Cars in the UK. He said he was handling everything now and made it sound as if Tom was no longer involved. He is supposed to be getting me prices on the rocker panels but haven't gotten anything back from him yet. Keep me posted if you decide to splash your rocker panel covers. Thanks, J.P.

Most of the places that do the metal stripping follow up the procedure with a rust inhibiting coating. The place that did mine used a water soluable coating so it won't last but some use a zink type coating that is more permanent. A lot of people will protect he insides of frame rails, etc. by filling them with a mixture: linseed oil, mineral spirits & japan dryer (often used to rust proof the insides of airplane kit components) and then draining it out to leave a coating.

Here is the link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=80057&highlight=bonding+fiberglass+metal Here is the part about priming metal: "3M Automix SMC/fiberglass panel adhesive part #8219; This is a 2part urethane adhesive use to bond FRP ('glass) body panels to each other and to metal frames - though the metal needs to be primed with a good 2-part primer (DP!!) 30 minute worktime - handle the part in 2 hours and cure time is 24hours". You may have been refering to the 3M product specifically. Does that refresh your memory PopsRacer! LOL. What product did you use to bond your door skins?

Speed, In one of your post in a different thread regarding bonding fiberglass to metal you emphasized that bare metal should be primed and that adhesive should not be used on bare metal. What would be counter productive about having metal prep, then primer before bonding? I have also considered using the stuff used to seal and refurbish the inside of fuel tanks to rust proof the inside of my doors.

Are you saying Tom still has an inventory of Scorpion parts? How do I contact Tom?

Yep, that's basically what a 69'-70' BOSS 302 is; a 302 with 351 Cleveland heads. Quite a few people have put 2V or 4V 351C heads on a 302 to make their own versions. Modern aftermarket 351W heads flow better than the Cleveland heads and as posted above, the aftermarket for Windsor motors is MUCH better.

SpeedRacer- still lookin for ideas...bump, bump. Thanks

Speed, The only kit car website I could find for Simpson was for these Miata based kits: http://www.simpsondesign.net. Is it Stable Auto Works? Are those rocker panel covers you mention still avialable? Thanks.

Switching from knock-offs to bolt ons for special occasions will be a real pain in the butt.

I just got the link with the writeup on rebuilding hinges to work and those are not the parts I need. I need the roller on the lower hinge that the spring arm rides on. Mine are very worn and the spring arm "pops" as it rides over them when opening and closing the door. Any ideas?

Thank you!