Mayolives

After a lot of searching here for "driveshaft" stuff, I have learned yet another thing about these old z cars. That would be about the 22 spline count slip yoke based on a 24 count spline. Meaning 24 splines with two cut out on apposing sides. I tried a driveshaft from my 79 280zx in this five speed and it slid into the gearbox easily. So apparently I need to find another slip yoke for the 73 240z driveshaft that I'm trying to use. Z Car Depot list one (part # 800-923) with 24 spline count that skips 2. However, the listing states it is for a 280z not a 280zx. Will this slip joint fit my 5 speed? It never ceases to amaze me that after decades of playing with z cars and many years reading lots of post here, that I discover something an old dog like me didn't know more about.

I installed a five speed (late model, type "B") from I believe a 1981, 280zx into a 73, 240Z. I used a drive shaft removed from another 73, 240z, 4 speed, parts car. The driveshaft appears to be about an inch too long. I had a bit of trouble sliding the yoke into the transmission. I checked the splines on both the yoke and the transmission with a small, machinist ruler and they looked perfectly straight and clean. But I still had to lightly tape the yoke into the gear box. I know the joint needs to slide a little when the car is in motion but it' a little tight. Also, I'm not sure the yoke is in the transmission far (deep) enough. Should the outer piece (shield) that goes around the drive shaft spline' go all the way into the transmission and touch the area where the real seal is? I still have about an inch to go before it would touch the gear box seal area but I don't want to force it all the way down in there. Any ideas?

New Zed, I took your advice by removing the distributor again to see if it was different from the original one. The base and fixing plate are the same. Although the vacuum controller has a different shape compared the old one it operated just fine when I checked it with my vacuum pump. The new distributor is very clean and has a Nissan Factory Remanufactured sticker on it. I'm now concerned that I may have a distributor from another year 280zx that won't work with my 79. I thought that I had a list of distributor numbers that were used in the different years but can't locate it. FSM doesn't appear to show numbers either. I have them for most all years. The original one was a D6K8-02 8903. The one I'm trying to use is a D6K 80-03 A8918 and I'm not sure what year car it came from. Do you know where I can find a distributor part number listing or information on what year 280zx distributors are interchangeable? I still have the options of trying to swap magnets from old to new without breaking them or converting to a 280Z unit using the HEI deal...... Now for the really "stupid me" story. Before I removed the distributor to compare things, I attempted to try rotating the wires on the cap one position. It started with a "jerky" move that out of time engines do, then coughed back through the intake so I shut it off. Shortly thereafter I was standing in a puddle of oil. After a little investigation, I discovered my newly blown out rear main seal. My little job just got a lot bigger. Not to mention I just installed a new clutch and pressure plate recently that is now probably oil soaked and trashed. Bummer! Thanks again for your help.

The IC ignition unit is an E12-80 on both my original and newer distributors. I will swap the old one back in to see if that works. The fixing plates do have a bottom screw that will provide more adjustment, but I've tried that with no help. I'm reluctant to attempt swapping magnets for fear of breaking another 40 plus year brittle old part, while removing the stator on top. I'm certain that's how the original one was broken. The stator screws were frozen in place and I had to tap on my driver to get them moving. If all the above doesn't work out, I have a 78 280 distributor and the GM HEI conversion deal that I'll install. Thank you for your help.

Although my #1 plug wire was at the correct #1 mark on the cap, I tried rotating my wiring one move clockwise with poor result and then rotating them counter clockwise with the same bad result. When trying to start the engine with both moves it was "way" out of time. Could a bad IC unit cause my problem? I haven't compared differences in base plates from on year to another yet but as I remember they are all the same.

While replacing several needed maintenance items, ie; new injectors, fuel press. regulator, a few wiring issues, etc., I managed to damage the magnet assembly in the distributor. Apparently the magnets are NLA so I located another distributor and now I'm having a timing issue. I've removed and replaced more than one distributor and usually know what I'm doing. After installing my new found zx distributor, I can only get a few degrees of advance when the distributor is rotated full clockwise. When rotated all the way, the IC unit comes in contact with the first sensor in the thermostat housing. (either the thermatime switch or temp. sensor whichever, i forget). Is it possible that I have a 280zx distributor from another year that will not work with my 79? This one is in there with # 1 at the top of compression stroke, 0 mark aligned with mark on damper, rotor dead on with #1 mark on one cap and #1 wire. Engine starts and runs. But like a lazy pig with the few degrees of timing I can get. Any ideas??

My apologies for the delay with my response. Sure looks like the one. Let's make a deal and I'll send some dollars. Thanks, Tom.

Actually, I have years of wiring experience from a total body rewire on my 77 to many other repair deals. I'm well stocked with connectors, tools, shrinks, test eq and etc. You have provided a "distributor wiring install for dummies" guide that will scoot me through the process. Thank you for all your advice, TB.

NewZed, I've located a rebuilt one (77 78). I noticed it had two pickups. Do you think this will do the job? Also, this distributor doesn't appear to have the "black box" that the diagram you showed with B & G connections. I suspect it's a control unit. I have FSM s for 1977 & 1978. Both show "transistor ignition units" and how they function with the distributor circuit. So this is a big question mark for me and what I will need. I'm amazed at how little I know about some parts of these cars, even after never being without having at least one z car in my driveway for decades. I even have a few today in various stages of renovation, etc. Thank you for your help, TB.

NewZed, I may have one in my parts collection from a 78 280z. What can you tell me about installing it? I know how to put the 280z one in and how to time it after it's running. But I don't know about wiring it. The stock 280zx one has the "IC ignition unit" mounted on the side with a 2 prong connection. Will that wiring connect to the 280z unit? Thank you for your advice, TB.

NewZed.….Thank you for the response to my magnet assembly question. I read through the entire tread you referred to at ClassicZcar. It mentioned two places that might be able to help me. Both sources were a dead end. The thread also suggested a antique distributor rebuilder in MI who said he could not rework my dizzy due to having no source for my broken magnet assembly. Looks like I need to locate another distributor or spend the dollars to install a stand alone ignition system that I haven't begun to research. Do you have a suggestion to the least expensive system to use? Thank you for your help, TB.

I posted my need for a distributor magnet assembly and recd. no replies. So, how bout a complete distributor from a 79 through 83 280zx, non turbo car. The magnet ring under the stator must not be broken, because that's what I need. If you have one and need to check the magnet ring, be very careful when removing the 3 screws on the stator. If you use an impact device to free the screws, the magnet will probably break. A little WD-40 or other will free them.

WTB Magnet assembly for 1979 280zx distributor.

Advice needed for my 79 280zx distributor. The magnet assembly has broken to pieces. I have searched and searched for the part or even a rebuilt distributor with absolutely no luck. A Rebuilt Distributor isn't out there listed at any street parts stores or at any of the many z car sites that I have been doing business for many years. I can't spend the dollars to convert to a complete aftermarket ignition system. I haven't even been able to find a rebuilder that will take my old one to refurb for me. I have a few old dizzys in my parts ben and each one had broken magnets. I'm really "up against it". Any ideas where to locate what I need?

QUOTE "My big question is how big of an undertaking is this actually?" I have done this job on a 280. It is time consuming and requires one to keep his concentration on the job at hand. You will need to follow basic instructions and pay close attention to detail like the color codes supplied with the kit. This would be a good time to replace the carpet due to having to run the new wiring under it and the seats, etc. Installing new, modern bulbs as you go will also be a big improvement. This job isn't for anyone but if really want a reliable car body to go along with the new engine swap, go for it! Wiring problems in these old z cars can and will drive your crazy.

For what it's worth...….. I have found and fixed my 280zx cold start problem as mentioned above. The connector to the throttle valve switch was corroded. Unplugging it, gave it a few squirts of contact cleaner, did a little scraping to remove said gunk and a reconnect has cured my problem. Little "buggers" like this can be difficult to find but studying the FSM and marching through it, step by step, usually pays off!

My 79 zx just runs like crap when first started. Back fires through intake and exhaust when I try to add rpms. Checked the new spark plugs and they were gas fouled so I replaced the cold start valve and thermotime switch and their electrical current connectors. Still have the same problem. It runs great when warmed up. All hoses, belts, ht leads, distributor cap, plugs, vac lines, etc. are new. I haven't replaced the "thermal transmitter" that screws into the thermostat housing because I haven't been able to locate a new one and because I really don't know If it is part of the problem. The 79 FSM doesn't have much to say about the thermal transmitter. (It isn't the water temp sensor, located beside it that controls the temp gauge in the dash.) Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

This 280ZX Turbo car is still hanging around and as my last post stated, I pushed it aside several months ago. I have several other Z cars that are in various stages of restoration and just don't have time to strip and part out this ZX. I will seriously consider any reasonable offer and will consider any trade up or down w/dollars. it's a complete, untouched car that will make a perfect parts car to build another turbo z. It's an auto transmission car but I have a number of five speeds and could supply one in the deal. Thank you, Tom. 843 450 6512

Sorry for the slow reply. I've been really busy and just pushed it out of my mind. The car is still for sale and it's an auto. If a buyer doesn't come along soon, I'll part it out but not looking forward to spending the time doing so. I need to sell it. If interested, make me a good offer! Thanks, Tom. 843 450 6512

I would like one. Please let me know how to send you some dollars. Thanks, Tom.

My 78 280Z has the stainless trim pieces on each side. The car just returned from paint where the holes to mount the trim were to be welded in. But that didn't happen so I now must re-install the trim. I'm missing several of the small, pointed end pieces that fit into each side trim piece. They are about 1 1/2 inches long. They are easy to remove by just by drilling out the one rivet that holds it to the body and then pull it from the long trim piece. Please PM me or contact me at 843 450 6512. Thank you for your help, Tom.

I suspect that my request is a bit too late. I just realize how old the sellers post is. Does your 78 have the stainless side trim pieces? The ones that are in three pieces on each side. One on the front fender, one on the door and one on the quarter panel. I need a few of the pointed end pieces that slide into the ends of each trim piece. Please PM me or contact me at 843 450 6512. Thank you for your help, Tom.

I responded a moment ago but I don't see my post. I need the driver's side only. Please send your Paypal address along with the total charge and I'll transfer the payment. My zip is 29582, North Myrtle Beach, SC. Thank you, Tom.

I need a complete door latch mechanism for the driver's side on a 1978, 280Z. It needs to be complete with all the rods, holders, clips and etc . including the parts that attaches to the little button on the top of the door, that you push down to lock and pull up to unlock the door from inside. This part stands between me being able to finish all the door work on this car so obviously having it in hand is very important to me. Please private message me or contact me at 843 450 6512 in order for me to arrange for your payment. Thank you, Tom. (If I can't answer when you call, please leave a message and I will return your call asap.)

Yes. My mast parts are in bad condition. One is broken the other, bent. That's why I chose not to use them. I'm not sure about the condition of the motors. I've never tested them. When I last needed an antenna, a friend gave me an used after market one that was manual and worked fine. However, it was mated to a new, $60.00 Ebay Pioneer radio that was very basic, and of non "audiophile" quality. I always spend the dollars on making the z cars I deal in run well and look good, not on sound systems unless a customer wants to upgrade. This has only happened one time over the past several years and I had the buyer work directly with a sound system shop to design and install it. It would appear that many people today use a secondary source for music in their cars., like an I-pod or cell phone.