Mayolives

Recently I was in a simular situation with my 78 280z. It had been resting for many years. I had to beat the rear drums off. All the rear hadrware was rusted and in bad shape. After measuring the inside diameter of the drums, I found both to be larger than spec. They must have been turned in the past. The front system was rusted, had bearing grease and brake fluid where it shouldn't be. The brake and clutch master cylinders were filled with dark gunk and the master vac was really rusted and probably leaking vaccume. I decided not try to save any of it and replaced all these parts with the best I could locate. I had to go with iron drums beacuse AL ones are no longer available. After removing the old parts, including the clutch slave, I connected a pressure bleeder to the supply lines where they connected to the master cylinders and pushed a little fresh fluid thrugh them to get rid of all the old fluid. I probably could have saved some of the old parts and spent the time to rebuild them and clean up the hardware, but I knew from experience, starting off with fresh parts was the better way for ME to go. It's all pretty straight forward work. Replacing the rear shoes was a little challenging because the two bigs springs gave be a hard time. I finally used a large clamp to hold the shoe on one side in place against the backing plate and then pushed the other side back in place. I have brake spring pliars but just couldn't find a way to use them on this set up. Also I have a brake tool with a handle on one end and little cup on the other end that really helps to remove and re-install the two shoe holders on each side. Be sure to check your e-brake cable to see if it's free before you start. If not it will need to be lubricated to free it up or replaced. Also, there is a threaded adjuster for the e-brake on the bottom of the rear brake hardware. It spreads that shoes out towards the drum surface. I will need to be installed with it made to be in it's shortest position. You can adjust it out manually when you are done to make it longer, a little at a time until the brake drum drags a bit when you slide it back over the sheos. The final adjustment can be make by pulling the e-brake handle a few times until it tightens up. I installed new soft brake lines on all corners but saw no reason to replace the hard lines. Be sure to install the rear shoes properly. The lining on one side is longer than the other. (Front facing shoe vs rear facing shoe) I forget which is which but can get back to you if needed. Also, I removed, cleaned and repainted the backing plates and the front wheel hubs then replaced the front wheel bearings and seals before I reinstalled them. Could I have repacked and saved to front bearings? Perhaps. But now I feel better about the whole job and It didn't cost a fortune. Take some pictures first if your not certain about anything. The factory service manual has good drawings that will guide you if you need to help. It's not brain surgery. Just nuts and bolts. I

https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/electrical/clock-repair-analog-70-78-z-round-r52/

vintagezparts.com He has several sets listed. His name is Allan and is in NC. He's a good guy to deal with and knows about our old z cars.

I have AZC's 5 lug set up. They looked great and have been on my road race car for a number of years with no problems. I have other AZC suspension parts that have worked well and Dave has always helped me when needed.

If you need it to look original, I guess your choices are limited to the expensive replacement boot. However, my friend just had the same problem but got creative and used a can of black colored Flex Seal. He formed it in the hole in the firewall to resemble the original and did a really nice job for about 10 bucks and a litttle time. I guess it's all about what you can live with!

My 260 did not have right side glass or parts inside the door when I brought it home. I tried window parts from a 73 240 and they were NOT the same and would not fit. I finally located a 260 regulator, etc that I needed. Have you removed your glass, regulator and track to clean and lube it? Over time, these parts get gunked up with dirt etc. and I suspect this is your only problem. Both windows on my 78 280 were very hard to roll up or down but after a good cleaning, etc, they work like new. They aren't that complicated. When you are in there you can lube the door lock parts and they should also work much better. I used old school white grease but their may be better products to use. A factory service manual has good daigrams and instructions that can help understand you window parts.

I just found lots of good information about the "what and how to" for vacuum booster hose at Classiczcar site. I believe I'll insert cooper tubing in a good hose to get the correct OEM bends. Sounds easy!

While replacing brake and clutch master cylinders, and vacuum booster on my 78 280z, I was not surprised to find rotten vacuum hose for the booster. New OEM style hose seams to be NLA. Can I use heater hose or AN hose to replace it? Are ther other hose choices?

I have a T5 / G-Force gear box that I've been very happy with. It's in my L6 turbo road course car that makes a bunch of power. It make some straight cut gear sounds but has stayed together for some time.

NewZed, I suspect the pump isn't doing what I need. I purchased it locally from Nissan parts dept so who knows what I have. I will check it's output pressure before I do anything else. Although it's "new", I purchased it about 18 months ago so there will be no exchange from Nissan. Thank you for your help.

My 78 280Z has only 15lbs (steady) of fuel pressure. It has been setting for several years since I bought it and was running rough. I had the injectors rebuilt, replaced the fuel pump, the pressure regulator, both new from Nissan along with all rubber hoses, belts, new plugs, wires cap, rotor, valve adjustment, etc. Fuel pressure has not improved. Is my next step replacing the fuel damper? I have never had a problem with a damper in my decades of playing with these cars.

Thank you NewZed. Again an old Z dog learns new tricks! Your post with pictures pertaining to the differences in distributor pedestals was an eye opener for me. After again really looking at several sets of distributor parts left over from my two dizzy rebuilds (280zx & 280Z) I discovered the differences in both pedistals and fixing plates that allow for adjustment. After pairing a set properly and reinstalling my distributor for the umteenth time, all is well. I have all the adjustment I need and have the car timed just right. I even remembered a short video I saw some time ago at the california datsun site pointing out what pedestal and fixing plate works with the different distributors. SORRY for the two vids below. I wanted to just post a link and don't know how to remove the two vids below.

My timing issues continue. My original distributor had a broken magnet assembly and frozen breaker plate assembly but I found replacements in excellent condition. I completely dismantled the original distributor, cleaned and lubed it per FSM. Reassembled it with a new pick up coil, a new vacuum controller, cap and rotor. Put it back in the car but still could not get timing to advance beyond about 2 degrees. I've tried three different E12-80 IC units but they did't help. Then decided to go the "280Z HEI conversion route". I used a D6F5-03 distributor that has same timing curve as the original except it has a few more total advance degrees listed. Cleaned it up, installed new pick up, cap and rotor then put it in the car along with new HEI unit mounted properly on inside fender with nut-zerts and added additional grounding points. Engine starts but I still can't get but a few degrees timing and runs like a pig. I would think that moving wires in cap would correct this but when I try to rotate wires in either direction on the cap, it's way out of time. I've been playing with old z car for decades but I'm really stumped. Do I have a bad ECU? I'm not sure what else could effect the timing like this. I put # 1 piston on top of the comp. stroke with the timing mark on zero degrees and the # one wire on the cap aligned with the rotor that points where I have always found it to be on many Z's I have timed. I sure need some advice before I find a bridge to jump from. (Not so)

I need to replace the distributor vacuum controller on my 79 280zx. I've searched all the normal Z car suppliers that I've use in the past but no one has them for sale. Where can I find one?

Quote "If the side seals leak, you'll have to remove the cap and replace them as well. " So to be clear, in order to replace these side seals I would need to remove the sump (oil) pan. Doing it now with the transmission out would be a problem due to rear mount not being installed and having to unbolt the front motor mounts to raise the engine in order to remove oil pan. Is there any reason why I couldn't remove the rear main cap to install side seals after the transmission is back in the car? Removing the oil pan then sure would be easier.

I ordered a new rear main seal for my 79 280zx from Zcar Depot. Their listing stated an oem seal. Along with a normal circular type rear main seal that I'm acustomed to, I receive two other hard rubber seals measuring about 2 5/16" long by 1/4" by 1/8". Zcar Depot's part number is 200-717. I don't remember using these seals in the past. What are they for? The original engine is in my car.

So, the Amazon listing was "out of stock". I ordered bushings from MSA but had to keep the outer shells in place. After tourching out the old rubber parts, the new bushings fit great!

Yes Nissan still has them. About $2.50. Thanks

I've been following your build for some time. Very impressive! Please continue to post your progress.

maseraticompound@gmail.com Maserati Compound This guy has Datsun parts that can be hard to find. Searching is a little strange because I have found z and zx parts mislabled but if you take a look you will find good pictures of what he has and he ships fast.

I'm about finished up with the rebuild process on my 280zx five speed transmission. The new bearings and syncros are in place on the shafts. But I just discovered that I don't have the oil gutter in my adapter plate. It moves oil from one gear and sends it through to the other side by means of an actual gutter. I only have the tube part and the gutter extension is missing. I suspect it was damaged / removed by the bearing that had exploded beside it. I can't find one listed on all my parts sites. Does anyone know where to find one? I could make one but I would rather not devote the time to do so. Who has some gear box parts lying around that they can part with?

I haven't used Zcar Depot's kit before. The parts are made in Japan so I feel ok about them. It's too late for me to search but I thought the parts fron Nissan were NLA. As to the mainshaft nut, I'm aware of it's potential to losen. I have a new one to use and the original one was still tight when I removed it with 144k miles driven. Perhaps the problem is how it's installed by the rebuilder? Fingers crossed!

I have a complete car, 83 280zx turbo. I removed it from a barn where it had sat for many years after the barn roof had fallen on it. It is an auto trans car, but a have a five speed that I can part with. It is a complete car with only 90K plus miles on it. All original but the body is really rusted beyond use. Please contact me if interested.

The slip joint from Z Car Depot fits like a glove and slides easily. Now the cover on the driveshaft gos past the gear box seal. All is well.

Answering my own question! The transmission shop that advertised here is Alpha Transmission. I called them, spoke with the owner who told me he didn't advertise here on this site and the he "didn't fool with old Datsun transmissions" Too much! So here I go again, off into another adventure rebuilding it myself with the help of my FSM.