Mayolives

Although I have been playing with l28 engines since the 80s, I find that I know very little about cylinder heads. Like most of us Datsun gear heads who work on the L28, I have always taken heads that need work, to a professional and really haven't given them much thought. I've read that the P90 head came in both solid and hydraulic versions. I have a few P90 heads on my shelf and need to take one to my machinist for a valve job. How do I determine if the head I have has solid or hydraulic lifters? Thinking back to my early days working on small block GM engines it was easy. The lifters were right there resting in the intake and by just pushing down on one I could determine the lifter type. The lifters were visible and the hydraulic ones would "give" when pressed on and the solid ones would not. But how do I check the p90 heads I have before I take one to the shop for work?

Help....I'm signed into my account and have parts for sale. However, there is a note at the top right of the parts for sale section that says "you can not start a new topic. I've been a member for many years. Have I done something wrong? I need advice, please.

I have what you need if my 73 240 belt works for you. Please contact me at 843 450 6512. Thanks,Tom. (mayolives)

The topic says it all. Mine are worn out, to the point that lube doesn't help. Both posts, for the handles, are a mess due to what I suspect was a former owner using vice grips instead of the handles. PM or contact me at 843 450 6512. Thanks, Tom.

ozconnection...........I'm sure I'm not the only member that would like to know more about your EFI system. I'm ready to spring for some parts to install on my 3.1, stroker that has an Arizona Z Car, four barrel intake. I've been reading about the various manufacturers of EFI systems but they all say they are the "best" one to use! I really need some first hand experience and direction.

QUOTE FROM NewZed :"The N42 block was used in 1979 ZX's.. Maybe some 1980's (not sure)" Yes, the N42 block was used in some 1980 cars. I purchased an 80 parts car that I'm sure still had all it's original running gear and it had the N42 block. I'm not sure if Nissan ran them until a point where they were used up or if they mixed cars with them and the F54 throughout the year.

After removing some paint, I discovered the "N42" markings on the block. I was told that It came from a ZX car. Along with the deal, I received a five speed that was supposed to come from the same donor car as as the engine. From what I know about transmissions, it did come from a ZX car. So it would appear, just like Zhoob2004 said, some ZX cars sported the "N42" block. This engine is in a 74, 260, therefor, checking body numbers won't provide help.

Where can I locate information about vin. number vs/ model year. I know it's here somewhere but I can't find it. I need to know about block # L28 047773. It's in a car I just purchased and it's running a stroker set up with an E88 head and a four barrel carb.

I need a pair of low back seats for my 79 ZX. I have a perfect pair of high back, red, cloth seats than I want to replace with a pair of low back seats and then cover with red leather. I'm not concerned about the condition of your seats, as long as your frames and hardware are in good condition. I will trade for or purchase your seats, whatever works for you. My seats are absolutely beautiful and come from my car with only 56k original miles on the clock! Also, I'm willing to travel and meet somewhere if needed. If I purchase seats and not trade for them, I will offer my seats for sale, but not until I have new seats in hand. You may pm me or give me a buzz at 843 450 6512. I need these seats asap, as in yesterday. Thanks,Tom, North Myrtle Beach, SC.

Thanks for the tips. I hadn't thought about the crank shaft position but it makes sense. I'll give it a shot and then post just how well, or not so well it works for me.

I need to replace the oil pan gasket of my 78 280. Can this be done by unbolting engine mounts and whatever other items like perhaps rad. hoses, etc up top and then jacking the engine up a bit?

Thanks for the replies and information. 30 Ounce has hooked me up with what I needed.

30 ounce...........Sorry, but I forget how to pm you. The photo of your distributor looks like to one I need. How much do you want for it and how can I make payment. Perhaps you could call me at 843 450 6512 and we can work out the details. Thanks, mayolives.

Wanted To Purchase...I need a complete distributor for 1978 280z. It needs to be a 1978 or an identical one from another year because I need it for parts. I have one from a 1973 240z and one from a 1981zx but the are different. I need it asap and will pay with Paypal or whatever fit your needs. Please don't rob me. It's just for parts. I installed a new Kameri oil pump and decided to rebuild the distributor while it was removed and I really do need it yesterday. Also, I have lots of Z parts so let me know if you are in need. Thank you Tommy B. North Myrtle Beach, SC 843 450 6512. (If I can't answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you ASAP.) 843 450 6512

Bump....Any thoughts before I venture into the "black sticky" adhesive zone? I doubt that I'm the only member who is facing this, what will probably be, a messy job.

I have always used Black 3 M Super Gasket Adhesive, for my weatherstrip installation jobs. I'm ready to install most of the weatherstrips on my 78 and would like to know if anyone has found another product to use, successfully, other than the 3 M product. The 3 M adhesive does work well but it's messy to work with. In a perfect world, a clear type glue/epoxy that worked as well on weatherstrips as the 3 M product would be what I would like to use. Any recommendations?

I have a manual, wrench type. (non hydraulic) I've used it dozens of times for smaller job and it works great!. I suppose the hydraulic one would be better if you were doing many fastenings, repeatedly. Mine came with about six different thread sizes. Be sure to get the one that covers the size work you intend to use it for. Here is a link to Lem Inc.Akron Ohio, where I purchased mine. www.online-lem-hand-tools.com.

I've read a report somewhere that showed the acceptable length of a threaded piece that should be inserted into it's counterpart. And I believe it's based on the size and strength of the fastener. I'm not sure that would apply to your situation. I think that common sense should be used and that you should error on the side of safety. How long is your threaded part? I would want a substantial part of it screwed in. Enough that there was absolutely no fear of it failing and leave you with dangling participles. The report I read may have been at the Fastenal.com.

I also need them before next weekend 12th of Sept, I'm running a rally race in Live Oaks, CA East of El Cajon. I have been searching for a while, and I'm running out of time. There is a person on Ebay that will make any size/spec spacer you need. Sorry, don't have his info but you should be able to search Ebay for him. His products are nice. I use them!

QUOTE: What else can I do to get it free? The threads are NOT reversed. Get an impact gun. If you don't have air, an electric one will work. You are going to mess around and pull the car off the jack stands and cause problems if you continue along your present path. You may be able to borrow a gun from an auto store loaner program. Have fun!

I just received the new issue of Japanese Nostalgic Car magazine. Although it doesn't concentrate on Datsun/Nissan cars, the publication is great and is packed with quality pictures and information pertaining to some really fine rides. I hope they have enough consumer support to be able to continue. From what I gather, the magazine business is a tough one and I suspect their audience and subscribers are limited to not so many.

kiwi303.............That's good advice. Often we tend to make our replys, too complicated.

First - is it wise to use a turbo blanket for a high stress application? I spoke with a Garrett tech. person about using a wrap or blanket and was told that the it was ok and would not hurt the turbo in any way. I wrapped my L6 turbo, in my track car, to prorect it from the exhaust heat. I would GUESS that it lowers the oil temp. I stress "GUESS" because I didn't actually check the before and after temps. Second, Do I have an oil volume issue. If your line are kinked, replace it. The sizes you are running are good. Third, lose of power under boost A number of things can cause a stumble, including, but not limited to, you ignition system, bov, fuel flow, etc. Your bov could be a good place to start looking for what causes it. Turbos on track cars can be "quirky" but after you get the bugs worked out, they can really help to make power. Discovering how and where to properly apply throttle with your right foot, and to be able to keep the turbo spooling is the key to running a turbo track car.

QUOTE: Anyways, I know a lot of you are running fuel surge tanks but where are you getting them? I have a custom fuel cell with an ATL bladder that gave me fuel starvation problems in corners before I installed an ATL anti-surge set up inside. It's a simple little fuel holding area with trap doors and works well. http://atlfuelcells.com/