Mayolives

How bout a wild guess? Years ago my Jeep Cherokee had a noise not unlike the one you describe. Turned out to be leaves in my hvac duct under the dash.

I use the Valvoline generic.

I have 944 style cv axles and a Quaife differential in my s30 road race car. It has big HP and TQ numbers. I used Valvoline Hi-Temp grease in them with no problems. I suspect most good grease brands, including the new synthetic greases will also do the job.

I've been waiting for an ignition part from the manufacturer here in the States (Fuel, Air, Spark) for several weeks and I'm told it could be a few more weeks wait. My research shows there are no other retailers who have what I need in stock. The part is listed on Whitehead's site but with no one answering thier phone and after reading all the above negative comments about them, I've decided not to risk deal with them. Perhaps all the comments should sound the "buyer beware alarm" to this community until Whitehead can prove to be a worthy supplier again. I'm not part of the cancel culture and I don't like the word "boycott" but if a duck walks like a duck and quacks, it's most likely a duck!

QUOTE "borrow or buy an impact wrench. Electric if you don’t have an air compressor. That’s your best bet." I've read several post about using an impact to remove the fill plug in an s30 diffenential. That would be a real trick. Due to the angle needed and obstructions around it, there is no way an impact wrench will work!

Follow-up on the differential fill plug that I could not remove. I followed some of your advice and heated the AL case. I tryed to not put direct heat on the plug itself. I did this several times (cycles). Then again used my 20" cheater pipe on the open end wrench and finally out it came. After refilling it with Synergyn gear oil, all is well! Thanks for the help.

I've read post after post about Datsun engine color, and I've found a number of venders who offer spray cans. Who offers quart size Datsun blue engine paint?

All the above advice well taken. I do have all the bells and whistles, ie: air, impacts, too many tools and Datsun stuff all around. I've yanked and tugged on a many R180/200 diff and trans plugs for longer that I'll admit but never had to use heat to make one move. Perhaps I'm now just getting too weak. I'll use some heat, with the precautions stated, and fell better than making a bone head move without asking for advice first. Never too old to learn new tricks! Thanks.

After draining the differential for routine service, I can't loosen the 17mm fill plug in order to replace the fluid. I've soaked it with penetrating fluid, taped on it with small hammer, used a dead blow hammer and a "cheater" pipe but to no avail. Can I use some heat from a butane torch to heat around the nut without damaging the cover gasket?

I have been dealing with Zcardepot for a number of years. Hardly a month passes that I don't purchase from them. And yes, they haven't been answering phone calls since the China virus came along. But they have always answered my emails in a timely manner since then. IMHO, they are a solid place to do business with, far better than MSA. Perhaps this situation is a product of our new world where emails and text messages vs phone calls and in person, or "eye to eye" contact is becamming a thing of the past. I'm becoming an old guy and prefer personal contact but I'm trying to deal with the changes.

From one old timer to another, welcome back.

Did you take a close look at the old gear oil that was drained from the gear box? Was any metal visible in the drain pan? Have you checked the half shafts for play in their u-joints?

Have you looked at nissanpartsdeal.com?

Also, I didn't address the front brakes in my post above. After removing old system and cleaning/ painting what was needed, I installed new rotors, calipers and pads. Touqued them to spec. Be sure to use brake lube on the long pad pins. Pad instruction usually will show you where to apply lube. There is no brake adjustment for the pads. They will take care of themselves. Be sure to bleed all the air out of the entire systems you had apart. Can be accomplished with a power bleeder or a friend with strong legs. Don't over tighten the large nut on the spindle when you replace the hub. Do it just enough for it to spin freely but not have the hub lose on the spindle.

Recently I was in a simular situation with my 78 280z. It had been resting for many years. I had to beat the rear drums off. All the rear hadrware was rusted and in bad shape. After measuring the inside diameter of the drums, I found both to be larger than spec. They must have been turned in the past. The front system was rusted, had bearing grease and brake fluid where it shouldn't be. The brake and clutch master cylinders were filled with dark gunk and the master vac was really rusted and probably leaking vaccume. I decided not try to save any of it and replaced all these parts with the best I could locate. I had to go with iron drums beacuse AL ones are no longer available. After removing the old parts, including the clutch slave, I connected a pressure bleeder to the supply lines where they connected to the master cylinders and pushed a little fresh fluid thrugh them to get rid of all the old fluid. I probably could have saved some of the old parts and spent the time to rebuild them and clean up the hardware, but I knew from experience, starting off with fresh parts was the better way for ME to go. It's all pretty straight forward work. Replacing the rear shoes was a little challenging because the two bigs springs gave be a hard time. I finally used a large clamp to hold the shoe on one side in place against the backing plate and then pushed the other side back in place. I have brake spring pliars but just couldn't find a way to use them on this set up. Also I have a brake tool with a handle on one end and little cup on the other end that really helps to remove and re-install the two shoe holders on each side. Be sure to check your e-brake cable to see if it's free before you start. If not it will need to be lubricated to free it up or replaced. Also, there is a threaded adjuster for the e-brake on the bottom of the rear brake hardware. It spreads that shoes out towards the drum surface. I will need to be installed with it made to be in it's shortest position. You can adjust it out manually when you are done to make it longer, a little at a time until the brake drum drags a bit when you slide it back over the sheos. The final adjustment can be make by pulling the e-brake handle a few times until it tightens up. I installed new soft brake lines on all corners but saw no reason to replace the hard lines. Be sure to install the rear shoes properly. The lining on one side is longer than the other. (Front facing shoe vs rear facing shoe) I forget which is which but can get back to you if needed. Also, I removed, cleaned and repainted the backing plates and the front wheel hubs then replaced the front wheel bearings and seals before I reinstalled them. Could I have repacked and saved to front bearings? Perhaps. But now I feel better about the whole job and It didn't cost a fortune. Take some pictures first if your not certain about anything. The factory service manual has good drawings that will guide you if you need to help. It's not brain surgery. Just nuts and bolts. I

https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/electrical/clock-repair-analog-70-78-z-round-r52/

vintagezparts.com He has several sets listed. His name is Allan and is in NC. He's a good guy to deal with and knows about our old z cars.

I have AZC's 5 lug set up. They looked great and have been on my road race car for a number of years with no problems. I have other AZC suspension parts that have worked well and Dave has always helped me when needed.

If you need it to look original, I guess your choices are limited to the expensive replacement boot. However, my friend just had the same problem but got creative and used a can of black colored Flex Seal. He formed it in the hole in the firewall to resemble the original and did a really nice job for about 10 bucks and a litttle time. I guess it's all about what you can live with!

My 260 did not have right side glass or parts inside the door when I brought it home. I tried window parts from a 73 240 and they were NOT the same and would not fit. I finally located a 260 regulator, etc that I needed. Have you removed your glass, regulator and track to clean and lube it? Over time, these parts get gunked up with dirt etc. and I suspect this is your only problem. Both windows on my 78 280 were very hard to roll up or down but after a good cleaning, etc, they work like new. They aren't that complicated. When you are in there you can lube the door lock parts and they should also work much better. I used old school white grease but their may be better products to use. A factory service manual has good daigrams and instructions that can help understand you window parts.

I just found lots of good information about the "what and how to" for vacuum booster hose at Classiczcar site. I believe I'll insert cooper tubing in a good hose to get the correct OEM bends. Sounds easy!

While replacing brake and clutch master cylinders, and vacuum booster on my 78 280z, I was not surprised to find rotten vacuum hose for the booster. New OEM style hose seams to be NLA. Can I use heater hose or AN hose to replace it? Are ther other hose choices?

I have a T5 / G-Force gear box that I've been very happy with. It's in my L6 turbo road course car that makes a bunch of power. It make some straight cut gear sounds but has stayed together for some time.

NewZed, I suspect the pump isn't doing what I need. I purchased it locally from Nissan parts dept so who knows what I have. I will check it's output pressure before I do anything else. Although it's "new", I purchased it about 18 months ago so there will be no exchange from Nissan. Thank you for your help.