zredbaron

Thanks so much for all of your efforts, Ryan! Very excited.

T-Shirts (medium) -1x Cardinal Red -1x Heather Heavy Metal Hoodie (medium) -1x Antique Cherry Red shipping to 72764 Thanks so much, Ryan / cockerstar!

Hello all! I am pleased to announce that I didn't sell the car. I remain on disability for mental health, after selling all my retirement accounts I was able to keep the car and now I am able to get by with disability benefits. Luckily my life's work, this Z car, still exists. I don't have the money to upgrade it, but I already built it and I have old some tires and gas that need to get used up. I moved to Arkansas to help my Dad with his property and for me to be with family while I try to recover my health. I have been working hard to get the Z on track again. Recently turned it by hand and performed cold compression checks. Fired right up once I flicked the pedal enough!

Where do I begin? Missed you guys. Missed myself. **** artistic words. Here's the scoop. Videos below. Sorry I have been silent. Tons of videos celbrating the NA L6. The dragon only breathes fire while the dragon boasts health. Here we be. For now. This car will be for sale. I don't know when. Get your serious ears perked up if that's you. Videos demo power and handling below. Not now. I don't know when. Next year probably. I still have dyno aspirations but have learned to not jinx myself. I've been struggling with reinventing myself, midlife crisis, blah blah. My days with cars are numbered. This is not a drill. I have an empty race seat in Montana next month. Top Gun autocross. Come out and get a ride in the passenger seat if that's you. I have broken so much drivetrain, I think we all will be proud of this little motor that would. I'll circle back with details probably, if relevant to others. For now, here is some media. Most of these links are private, because I want to include you all before I start making better media. Motivation is good. Catch me while I'm sailing. Montana media at the bottom. https://youtu.be/YhksdgKEHL8 https://youtu.be/02bMEg3KsKY https://youtu.be/eMgp4DvaSJE https://youtu.be/02bMEg3KsK The longer, enthusiast video with 2017 content if you haven't seen it: https://youtu.be/zIhQ0_njKEw Helena, Montana, Rocky Mtn Emergency Services Airport Playpark, National Guard, et al: https://youtu.be/ApuE71ddbgs The upcoming event is 8/15-16, Saturday and Sunday. Reply here or PM me or find me on FB (Mark Haag, same username icon as here). Lots of upgrades since those videos, no idea how they will work out.

Subscribing to this so I can remember to upload the English .pdf that I have to this thread. Cool gizmo. Agreed with Tony that it will match my alternator bracket perfectly. And evidently Jeff P's as well! LOL. Anyone know where to buy one nowadays?

Glad you liked it. At the time of the video: OEM Driveshaft Datsun R180, OEM carrier and stubs Datsun 4.37 Ring and Pinion, from 1980 Datsun 720 King Cab 4x4 (front R180) Quaife ATB differential Now: Aluminum driveshaft CV stubs (and outers) are American chromoly directly into the Quaife (no adapters). Different CVs now, too. (Ermish Racing 2.0 kit)

Shooting from the hip (experienced but one should always confirm the Weber charts), I think your venturis are too small, and this will give you a ton more air (and power capability). You will likely run best with a 34mm for drivability unless you have a lot of money in your head and it flows really well (36mm if so).

The above thread has a wealth of good information (and misinformation). That said, if you read the whole thing, you will likely feel very confident in what direction you need to go.

For those that aren't big on reading, I'll put this first! I'm not big on social media, so the following invite to this YouTube premiere has not been advertised anywhere online. This thread is the first online announcement. I invite you all to join me in watching my racing film (2017 memoir) this Saturday, July 13, 2019 @ 0930am PST (GST -8) on YouTube. 125++ hours editing (24 minute film). 19+ years of dedication (21 years now in 2019) 3"+ of receipts Seriously-satisfying images and sounds I don't care much if the video goes viral, but I would enjoy watching it live with those who are available. It's a major life event for me.... Cheers! I hope you can make it, and if not, I know you will enjoy it whenever you have the time. Ok. For those who like updates.... sorry it's been so long! I have delayed mostly because I'm a perfectionist and lately that results in inaction more often than activity. So it goes. I ordinarily would post pictures but I'm just not organized enough right now. Better to at least check in... Ok, so... belated update... but 2018 was a dope ass racing season! (I didn't share. I don't really do social media much. I'm starting to crawl out of my turtle shell again. Thanks for the canvas to express.) It was a wild success, even though I didn't really experience it as pleasant at the time. (Depression? Blood, sweat and tears? Same same?) I didn't win anything other than a couple man-fridge magnets in classes too small... attendance prizes in truth. I beat only one of my targeted peer benchmarks (a B Prepared 80s Corvette), but I felt like I had a few wins on several other non-timed categories. LOL Most eye appeal (usually tech inspectors missed things because of shiny vintage) Best sound (too loud for many but still top notes to a surprising high % of people that just had to say so) (credit to the legendary L6, John Coffey's R&D, and of course Joe Harlan the builder!) Most fun ("crisp horsepower," "smooth skating" (end of season), "what just happened," "now my adrenaline is up (faster driver+car)" Purist / vintage award Racecar upgrades included (photos one day when I organize offline stuff from last year): Welded frame rails Custom front frame swaybar mounting [system?] Photos one day when I organize my offline photos 2 Plates welded to both top and bottom of frame rails 2 additional plates for clamping: One plate had a long hollow finger that passes through the frame rail and conically fits into other side Long stud through all of it and holding pillow blocks at the bottom Front Brake rotors Custom aluminum driveshaft (third party vendor via MSA... anyone know? nice product.) 350/300# springs and later 400/350# springs (and a lot of rear rebound adjustments!) Racecar problems included Drivetrain ripped apart Wolf Creek CV kit: Excessive play Adapter plate loose. Retightened. Happened again. Found walleyed adapter. rebored Larger bolt, higher torque safety wire interior adapter (yes! impossible labor) safety wire exterior adapter (again, new custom bolts) safety wire driveshaft safety wire inboard adapter (diff side, still) Halfshalfts restored, CV axles are trash Axles literally developed play between the shaft and the splines (not a solid piece!?) - unacceptable! 300bhp through a 4.37 Quaiffe on 245mm Hoosiers U-joints Survived even with ATB (!) R180 rebuild #1 Play can be felt between OEM stub axle splines and Quaiffe After the rebuild, it behaved like a welded diff - spinouts caught me off guard but powersliding was way easier - I'm used to ATB! Moustache bar snapped Straight up sheared in half (!) got torque? stock halfshafts with spicer u-joints still intact (NOTE FOR BUDGET RACERS!!!) Holy R180, batman! R180 rebuild #2 New donor ring and pinion (4.37, 1982 Datsun 720 King Cab 4x4) There's a reason the Quaife is warrantied for lifetime under racing conditions! Evidently too much Loctite was the cause of the ATB behaving like a welded diff Blew my mind, and that of the AAMCO staff Quaife wins this round! Slicks died - twice Brake bias a major issue Aggressive driver a more major issue 2 bias proportioning valves installed (1 removed) Tachometer died Can only blame my younger, amateur self since I was the one whoinstalled it Season end I miss a "very high speed" autocross event in Montana (Top Gun) I literally hauled 10 hours and fly my father from out of state to attend I miss a "high speed" autocross event in Spokane, WA (Octocross) What's Next? I haven't driven my car in 2019 yet Will focus on seat time for remainder of summer Intake R&D (air horns, venturis, etc.) is still pending -- for this upcoming winter (no foreseeable overhauls for once) Fabrication nearly complete: Ermish Racing CV axle conversion (chromoly stubs and outers, no adapter plates anymore) Custom Woodward steering column upgrade Throttle cable upgrade, including a fine-idle speed adjustment cable implemented via OEM interior choke handle Rear brake line and e-brake cable repairs Rear sway bar installed for first time since 2009 Will perform hot leakdown test to confirm engine health First ever time-trial / HPDE for the car (and driver) on 8/3/19 (engine builder Joe Harlan will be an instructor on his home course, Portland Int. Raceway)

Fat fingered the reply. There are a ton of variables that will play into bogging or regressive performance. If you open up one aspect of a breathing motor, another aspect will become restrictive. Each category of restriction has completely different behavior sets both in and outside the performance envelope. A manufacturer builds a balanced system but only until every other upgrade possible is equally or complementarily upgraded does the system behave like a fully capable and balanced system again. A lopsided system will perform in a lopsided manner, even if an upgrade is present, just like with suspension. The best answer to early inquiries usually sounds a lot like "how much performance do you want to spend?"

I doubt anyone has ever regretted an aggressive cam. I sure haven't. Interesting that I sign on for the first time in too long and see Jon and Ben. Hello! LMAO

Yes I have dynoed exhaust before and after. I don't feel it is apples to apples, though. I have 13:1 compression, .565" lift cam with 324/316 duration (Sunbelts Race Cam #2), and 45mm DCOEs. I have compared 2.5" to 3" with the same cam and block, but the DCOEs were 40mm at the time. My 2.5" exhaust were MSA 6-2-1 headers and non-mandrel bends with lots of wrinkles. My 3" exhaust is from Stahl with 1 5/8" primaries (not 1 3/4"), with header collectors (3 primaries) measuring 2.5" each. I have a 20 degree merge collector that cones these two down to a single 2.5" and then flares out to 3". I have custom 3" mandrel stainless steel all the way back. This setup, including headers, merge collector, header coatings, mufflers, vband clamps and Tig welding labor cost about $5k... it's a huge investment relative to the street setup. What did this absurd investment buy me? A shit-eating grin and compliments of best sounding car at all autocross races, for starters (even 300 car fields!). "What kind of V8 ya got, bud?" I love that question, despite that I can't figure out why people think it sounds like a V8. Significantly more torque down low for sure, horsepower increase marginal. The tone now has a higher pitch when the cam has kicked in, and the idle sounds more like a popcorn machine (lopey cam) rather than a less choppy hum (smoother). Even with a radical cam, I launch my 245mm Hoosiers at about 2,000rpm and minimal pedal. I'm able to spin these tires very easily with torque. Credit to the stroker and many other details, but this was not possible with my street exhaust -- previous launches were at 3k+ rpm and significant pedal. I can't praise the impact of a merge collector enough and the mandrel bends downstream... the engine is much cleaner at changing RPMs and throttle positions. Torque is now a major asset during a race. In terms of drivability, having tuned headers (Stahl) and a merge collector really helps this car change throttle positions smoothly and therefore deliver changes in torque more smoothly. (Intake velocity stacks, venturis, etc. must also be tuned to get it to *really* sing.)

Bah! My apologies good sir. I burnt myself out trying to keep the car in working order and finishing the racing season. Tell you what... PM me and we can coordinate offline / phone call that way you aren't waiting for my presentation! No one wants that. I haven't forgotten and still plan on at least one dyno session this year with some of the data that I didn't collect last time. Evidently L6 intake data remains high on my list to contribute to the S30 community!

Nice! I've been eyeing those mods. Those are next...

Prior to my velocity stack hacks, I would have advised the 40mm venturis exclusively for drag/road racing (38mm for all else). If you are ok with the coin required to upgrade and possibly partially/fully mod your intake parts (three options), you will not be disappointed by 40mm venturis fitted with 47-49mm ID stacks. I apologize for being vague. (I want to make sure I have my notes in front of me.) My dyno date was rescheduled, not due to my schedule. So it goes. I'm not sure when the reattempt will be. I'm racing almost every weekend until October, so it might have to wait until fall. I don't remotely lack for torque or power, so it won't impact my racing as much as a throttle cable upgrade might. I've been carrying around a folder with pages of my jet settings. I need to organize it and figure out how to best present the highlighted data. I'll deliver.

Hi Marcel. I'm not sure I'm following you. I do have custom throttle levers with a set screw. The purpose is to hold position throttle arm angle on the round throttle bar, and not slip. Metal tabs were welded and tapped, and then the arms were custom coated to match OEM Weber. They do not have adjustments for idle. Idle speed is controlled by the carburetor idle speed screws (1 per carb) and the adjusting the lengths of the connecting links between the custom throttle levers and the carburetor throttle. It isn't the best design / best welds. I broke one of the welds too easily. Very disappointing after all that effort. Now it all has to come off and be resynched...

I'm still here and making significant progress with my intake tuning. At present, I can report that all aftermarket horns have outperformed the Weber straight horns, both short and tall. I have further invested in some custom machining solutions, one of which has really paid off (holy crap, I thought the car was singing before!) and is now very happy to quickly change engine speeds up and down with less resonance and gargling, even under 4k. I have another custom machining solution in the works, because well, my last three gut-instincts have been in the right direction and I'm still gaining lots of smoothly-delivered torque under the curve. And I still think I can have my peak power, too. No way I'm quitting while I'm ahead. Why am I not sharing the actual details? Because I have another dyno date set and I'm tired of saying I'm going to deliver data. This might be my last foreseeable dyno visit. "Maybe I'll have data, maybe I won't." At a minimum I will share my qualitative comparisons as well as my jetting combinations (because the changes in jets reveal how the swapped intake part affected the AFR plot). Ideally this information will be accompanied by dyno plots, but I have abandoned my mission to have an R&D experience. If I'm not already having an R&D experience then I should just give up my keys now. It's way past time to officially tune the engine timing and get an official, satisfactory baseline. As always, I'll still share everything I have learned and I will post pictures of my custom machining solutions, whether they work or not. EDIT - photos added showing some of the different air horns, mounted. (no I didn't ever fire it up this way)

05.18.2018 Dyno Day Report 630am - 815am I arrive at my road testing location, and continue to prep for my dyno appt at 9am I continue to refine the performance of the short stack webers I achieve a near-constant 13.0 AFR from ~4000-7000 RPM Car is smooth as silk at the top of 4th gear, 120ish? I have known good jet settings for 38mm venturis with long stacks, and 40mm venturis with short and long stacks, and have swapped back to known good settings several time this week. Repeatable. 845am Unload car at dyno shop Car fires right up, I turn it off after driving it off trailer. Tech wants to get in the car and put it on the dyno. Against my better judgment, I allow a young tech to attempt to start my triple carbs (neither warm nor cold motor) 915am At this point I kicked the tech out of the car and I'm trying to start it. Flooded? Fouled plugs? I decide to refuel, allowing time for the flooded carbs to clear. Won't start 10am New NGK plugs installed Fires right up, I drive it onto dyno Tech has me accelerate slightly to set the wheels. I am already alarmed by dyno noises and vibrations, I am assured this is normal It's not like I've never dynoed before 1030am Car is NOT the same car that I've been tuning all week! Making jet changes are having OPPOSITE effects then what happens roadside! Example: changing main jets 10 up or down DOES NOTHING!? Example: changing air corrector jets now behave as if the main jet is being changed? Additionally and separately, my ignition is being screwy A few times, the rev limiter did not kick in AT ALL Several times, the car wouldn't accelerate on the dyno, but would simply hesitate and chill out and get groceries Several times, while getting groceries on the dyno, VTEC or something kicked in because the acceleration would suddently PULL VERY HARD. Pulls back to back did NOT have the same performance. We started to not trust the data, sometimes doing 3 pulls for every adjustment. WTF is going on? 1130am Despite that the rules of tuning are now unpredictable, despite that my known settings are now shit... I finally find a good AFR again, very near my 13.0 AFR that was attained roadside that morning Time to move to timing Dyno is scheduled for another customer at 2pm! At this point all I want is to capture data for the Weber short and long stacks 12pm I start messing with 1000RPM timing I get my triples idling very nicely with a screwdriver I start messing with 3000RPM timing Engine is hot, needs to cool 1230pm Tech announces he is going to lunch No other techs around 1pm Pulls resume I am less desensitized to the vibrations I continue to express concerns and I am told all is normal 115pm Eff this, I'm getting my car outta here I drive off the dyno and onto the street, vibes are insane, loud at 35mph Day is done 215pm Drop my car off at a general auto place to investigate on a lift They tighten the driveshaft and right CV axle (inner bolts) Evening I pushed myself so hard this week that I start shaking and aching and getting sick Straight to bed around 7pm Weekend Saturday - rest. I skip the first race the car can actually enter... because the driver can't go physically. Sunday - autocross. Car kicked my ass, in a good way. Couldn't get the rear to settle down, which was delightful. Not sure if I had "fun." Big losses this week. That's sad. Ignition My ignition was crippled by something that day. The hall effect sensor is supposed to negate interference? Haven't called Electromotive yet. Depressing. I will. My theory: the dyno's ignition inductance pickup was near my hall effect sensor's harness, where the sensor wire is less shielded for a few inches to allow the sensor and XDI harness to clip together. I suspect if this had been relocated, the issue would have cleared. (Some positions definitely made it worse!) Dyno Graphs The way the dyno loaded up (very delayed)... it was very hard to scientifically produce consistent dyno runs. You can see some really screwy dyno plots. The ignition pickup had a really hard time, clearly. I attempted to attain WOT by 3500 and 4000 RPM as the engine tune allowed. In most cases, if I rolled into WOT slowly, it worked out. If I rolled quickly, it would be a wasted dyno pull (delayed dyno loading). A few times I forgot I was supposed to achieve WOT (for consistent analysis of what the change did) and throttled the carbs through the reverb RPM range. Very interesting to look at the torque plots of the throttled runs! WOW! (Enter driver as a patch! Haha.) Summary Phudge. What the crap, even? I'm still going to mess with a few of the air horns for awhile. I'll still come back... not at this dyno. The staff, to me, was more interested in getting through their day than helping their customer accomplish anything. They dismissed my concerns about ignition and vibrations. Not helpful. Sigh... A not-quite what we want to hear video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk_MpV3F9Ys

Thanks Jon. I was pretty much in shock all day on Friday. I couldn't believe what was happening as it unfolded. Unreal. I agree, I'd be a lot more comfortable if the inner bolts were also safety wired. rustler753, I'm running Stahl headers with 1 5/8" primaries, and 2.5" secondary collectors. The two 2.5" pipes are passed through a 20 degree merge collector, then expanded from 2.5" to 3" with 3" mandrel exhaust all the way back. Two straight through Magnaflow mufflers in series. I've been running 75F8 idle jets for the most part, with 70F8 and 80F8 also being used depending on the day and carb setup (venturis, horns, etc).

The Weber short stacks made the most power by about 270 whp. I never swapped any parts. Frustrating day. Showed up with a singing car that refused to sing for the first hour, oddly, and ultimately broke on the dyno while tuning the timing for my initial baselines -- excessive vibrations above 35mph. Never even got a good initial baseline! 🙄 My new driveshaft was installed by a speed shop and my right rear CV axle was also removed and reinstalled in the offseason. They were found loose after I finally demanded to unstrap my Z, and two bolts on my bigger driveshaft lost their nuts today. So to speak. I'll attach media when I am able. I have my suspicions about the dyno itself, nothing but issues with ignition signal today (due to dyno? very odd day). The car was smooth as silk at the top of 4th on asphault... and on the dyno it not only shook itself apart but the ignition was so inconsistent I don't find tuning to be useful on their equipment and doubt I will return. Very cool shop though... just not for my car evidently? Weird. I'll revisit this sometime this summer -- I still need to digest the day. It simply didn't add up from the beginning. For now, I am going to bed and still not attending my first race of the season tomorrow. I've literally made myself sick today. It was all I could do to get the car in the trailer in and out for the 4th time today as a shop with a lift helped me confirm my vibration issues. For now. At least the motor remains stout and sings beautifully on road tests. 🍻 🎻

Only the 47x50mm T3 stacks will be used today, sadly. Mounting issues, had to hack up the set that's by my best guess. (Tall ones wouldn't fit an airbox anyway.)

Well, I may have a decent handle on tuning Webers… But in general automotive proficiency… I couldn't get the 40 mm to run due to user error. I'm not sure what happened Monday night, but on Wednesday night I had a spark plug wire disconnected and didn't notice it. How embarrassing! That's what I get for checking the plugs late at night. I have really awesome jet presets for both the 38 mm and 40 mm venturis. 40 mms like the short stacks so far! Better AFR plot, but perhaps less peak horse power. I've got about 2 1/2 hours of daylight for more testing this morning. Every minute I get done in preparation means more day that we get at the end of the day. More when I got it. Today is looking and feeling like it's going to be a solid day! Video below, while still tuning 40mms last night. 3rd gear. So far it behaves identically to the 36mm venturis in the 40 mm carburetor body, which makes complete sense. Gargly until the cam kicks in... I think the reverb is allowed to travel outside the carb body with wide open venturis. I remember seeing fuel mist in person at the engine dyno. I'll capture it. Cheers.... 🍻☕️

Hey gang. I haven't had much time for road testing the 40mm venturis yet (let alone stacks). Still not driveable, so at present, the forecast is testing via 38mm venturis tomorrow unless I pull off a good tune tonight. I have main jets up to 245 now (!) and with 6 sets of emulsion tubes one would think a solid setup is within grasp. Attached is my tentative dyno flow chart: May 2018 Dyno R&D FlowChart.pdf It assumes unlimited time. I don't yet know if I'll be running 38mm venturis or 40mm venturis or both. At some point I will abandon broad data collection and proceed toward focused data collection. The results will navigate this flowchart, and so will the limited timeline. If half of those boxes have data at the end of the day I'd say that's a win. Any advice or thoughts here is always welcome. Ryan - The electromotive hall effect upgrade instructions are attached. The XDI 200 ($895) would meet/exceed my needs for carburetors, but if I'm going to rewire my ignition... I might as well rewire everything under the hood and integrate all of my fan controllers, etc. into one computer: the GT200 ($1,695!), which would also be forward-compatible with sequential fuel injection one day (should ITBs ever occur on the car). That's an $1,700 upgrade for a TPS at present. For now I'll save my cash and I'm buying the Electromotive loaner XDI unit from them, so I can get out there and race! I may have built a race motor (RIP, RIP...), but I'm a driver first and a builder/owner second. I'm already late to race season as it is!

Also, I road tested the 40mm venturis last night... and they are not yet drivable or able to be dynoed. At first I was discouraged, but then I realized this might mean that they have more power potential than I realize. It must be tuned. With 40mm venturis installed, it was way lean. I was afraid to touch the pedal to get past the "iffy" airflow and into the WOT performance where it was happier (but not happy). In the end, my largest main jets (205) aren't remotely close to being big enough. Choking the Air Corrector down to 145s still wasn't enough for an AFR that didn't make me nervous as all heck. So... in my mind this means one or more of a few things: Loss of aux venturi signal The Weber book notes that jumping from 38mm to 40mm venturi will result in a loss of signal at the aux venturi. I haven't read much carburetor theory about the aux venturi, so I'm not fully sure how this impacts WOT. My impression is the aux venturi serves to assist mixtures at low RPMs and lesser throttle positions. My impression is this is a less desirable drivability issue, but a drag or road race engine would like it just fine! The main jets are just too damn small. More air needs more fuel, duh. More fuel means more power, duh. I would love this to be the fix! Emulsion tube experimentation is in order See aux venturi notes... it's my understanding tubes are for mixing at low RPMs, not WOT. I have 5 other tubes. "Ram" tubes / velocity stacks are now crucial That's the point of Friday, after all... but if I can't safely get on the throttle I have to test at the 38mm level. Cleaning up this increase of air may clean up the signal loss at the aux. venturi. Today I will order more main jets. I'll do more road testing as I'm able. Any experience with 40mm venturis out there?

Thanks Ben! About the T3 stacks - I have both their 47mm and 49mm ID varieties. Do you know the ID of your setup? Since the (Weber) sleeves have an ID of 48mm, the T3 stacks are an exciting wild card to me, because I can also test with / without the inner (Weber) sleeve inserts that will be cut. When I have more time I'll post a table of the impressive list of combinations I will be able to play with. More than I will have time. Fun! Ryan - it's truly my pleasure to share. About the ignition upgrade - I will be calling their tech today. It's not an option for this week or maybe this summer... but I'd love to incorporate a throttle position sensor. I believe that means a TecS is a good option? Not sure. I owe the tech a call about the loaner unit anyway. Would allow software to map both throttle position (TPS) and manifold pressure (MAP). That'd be awesome to pair with carbs set up for WOT but retains driveability across a 5k+ RPM band. I think it can be done. Between fancy fuel, fancy ignition and fancy head work... I think one can have their cake and eat it too. But they might have to have fancy intake and exhaust setups! LOL Speaking of exhaust, I still haven't announced some of the other upgrades. The 3" mandrel exhaust now has two straight-through Magnaflow mufflers in series after the merge collector. The first is 14" and 1/2" thick(14x4), the second is 6" long and 3" thick (6x6). The sound is very balanced. The second muffler, since it is a different shape, attenuates a different sound frequency and it just-so-happened to work out the way I hoped: it didn't muffle the tough, but it did nip the high pitch resonance perfectly. I still prefer it raw -- just remove the exhaust after the merge collector. No hood and no air filters, windows down. Just open air horns and a merge collector. That's my favorite sound. One day maybe late this summer I'll take the car to a drag strip without any exhaust attached... one milestone at a time.