caen fred

This is open to all, but I think TonyD should have an idea on that matter. I run(ed) a 1972 240Z with: L28 F54 - Flat top P90 shaved 2 mm Mildly ported A fast road cam Thunderbird exhaust Dynomax cherry bomb Twice pipe 280ZX distrib crane coil Custom SU body injection with 2 GM injectors Running at 20 psi The car had enough power to follow on the track, nose in the bumper, an ex-italia champ lancia stratos during all the session Yet I wonder if a carbureted cam is what I need or if I need a injection spec. one ?????

I have plenty of that now... Pedestrian Fred

Enjoyed the video I hope... what about the bearing?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3V0bQR3qvFg My car is the lime one... the brown one is the Rebello's

I had a blast on Sunday, a track session with 4 other Z on one of the finest French race track: Montlhery. One of the 240Z had a 3.1 DJR 100% Britt engine and one other had a 3.1 Rebello one. I would think that the US is a short winner. The 2 other where the usual 2.8 blabla old school L engines. Back to the point, I had an engine issue on my way back home. I left early because of what seemed a broken transmission bushing, the lever shook and buzzed a little but nothing alarming. Yet after 100 miles the engine died with a rattling noise like a busted crankshaft bearing? The engine oil level was fine when I checked before leaving, and still is? Lot of fume went out when I took the dipstick out right after the stop. I used ARP bolts to the bottom end of this engine, the bearing are not more than 5000 miles old, and I did not had a warning from the engine before???? Could one damage a bearing like that? I didn't try to restart the engine and I am thinking about the options. Maybe the rattling isn't coming from the bottom end but from the clutch/flywheel? I guess it's back to the garage for the winter

U're 100% right that's why I cool, it should get out fairly easily. I just wanted to give my opinion on reusing std head bolts, for me it's fine 2/3 time max!

Nobody? My cam is set at 104° BTDC and that put me at -6° on my NISMO cam pulley! The car run fine, but I am not sure the engine is giving all it can? I want to be sure I am doing it like it should be done.

How do you read that? "the timing for that cam is 104 deg full lift inlet valve" Is that 104° before TDC?

Broke one this weekend. I am not too concerned about it because it was on the torquing process that it happened! It's the #1 on the thermostat side. I had no option than to rely on our L engine ruggedness. So I just pretended that it had never happenned and set off 80 miles away for a Hill climb. I did 3 runs and then back to my garage. End of the day, only a minor water leak, I poured 1,5 liter of water once, and it cured itself after... I will take the head off again... and change the bolts, I had used them 3 times before, I was pushing my luck! Yet I must say it's one tough engine

Thanks Braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap I don't get the punt to the http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130441 link so? It's a guessing thread in the gearbox section? Ss for my spelling, I cannot do better, after all I don't speak English But you're spot on the gear change story. I change gear at 6 000 rpm, and I need to put the 3rd for the last second Engine is an F54 with flat top and an Mn47 head with a strange fast road cam. The car is running with 2 SU TBI. Advance is at +-8. Tires are 205/65r14.

I am slowly finishing the car. I am waiting for some more parts to really finish the head work. Yet, as the car is running fine, I took my racelogic box to record a few pass at the 0-60. I went with a street approach, hard launching but not drag style either. With the old 3.54 rear diff the best consistent time is 8.9 seconds. All things equal but with a 3.9 rear diff, guess what would be my 0-60 time. (the rear diff will be on the car at the end of the month, will see who will be the closest )

231 = 1/2 432 Only have 2 valves per cylinder, 3 carbs (one more SU to come) and 1 camshaft ! The badge is an old Z&ZX UK club

Yes it's mine... it's just a cliped Skyline front end to a JDM S30. It was just a Photoshop quicky for the fun of it, but if you're going the full scale way... I want one!

hehe... my JDM lookin' 240z Hope you like it

Same cam, but not same cam timing

I have a Twice pipe for 2 years now. It has been on 3 engines... First a L24 with an auto box, all std, (hilarious, the sound was OK but it was killed every time by the slippage of the auto box) embarrassing Then on a L28 with a F54 flat top piston, a P90 head and SU Best sound ever ! Now it's on the same bottom end but with a MN47 head and SU. The sound isn't at all as sexy? Very common, no more hi-tone Strange how the same exhaust can produce so many variation of sounds

I used a degree wheel to check the cam timing. With the dowel on B (-6°) I am almost spot on having the inlet valve fully open and having 104° on the wheel. Is it often the case to retard the cam so much????

I will check...

Thanks a lot Tony I will have a look at TunerCat Might be just what I need, I only want the on the move (or on the dyno) tuning ability of MS.

I picture how I can check the cam timing. I assume it won't be spot on and that it will need to be changed. What is the procedure? I have a Nismo 8 holes pulley and my cam need to bet set at 104° a.t.d.c. Do I have to go back to TDC and change the dowel? How offset could it be? A few ° or +10'°? The post on checking timing is fine but gives no way to alter it.

I picture how I can check the cam timing. I assume it won't be spot on and that it need to be changed. What is the procedure? I have a Nismo 8 holes pulley and my cam need to bet set at 104° a.t.d.c. Do I have to go back to TDC and change the dowel? How offset could it be? A few ° or +10'°?

When it's backed up with so many facts, it can't be beaten Is it a no NO, a no No, a no no... Try to be more specific It's scienZe matter in here!

I wonder if I should switch to Megasquirt? The GM ECM is fine but cannot be altered on the move on a rolling stand. Is it a direct plug from std GM ECM to Megasquirt?

The TBI adaptor is barely protuberant. The real restriction is the venturi where the needle was. Looking at it I think that if I carve it out I will need to sleeve it in some way because I will go past the thickness of this part at this very location.

I switched the rods...