caen fred

We sended both carbs to him the same week I need to time my cam and advance to be sure. The only issues I have is Iddling speed 1000 rpm not under and it need 3 turn of the key to start... other than that it's verry nice. I will take it to a dyno to get some figures.

I have converted my 240Z SU to FI. Basically they just now are a big throttle body with one GM injector where the piston was. It works OK, I made the mistake of trying new tech on a new engine with lots of unknown parts So the set-up takes a lot of time and trying and guessing but I am getting there! My question for you to debate on (at least 3 pages or I would not feel paid back for the effort I did towards Z science ). If I can get enough fuel by my two injectors will I actually have enough air to match a triple carb set-up????? Picture the carb now as an empty tube with a velocity stack at one end and the std manifold after the plate? I have a pair of Jag SU just in case I would need more air, but I'd rather stick to Datsun looking parts.

Just a fact At first I had what I thought was valves noise... I set them, and again, and re check... still lotta noise from the head! I rechecked the towers, head bolts, springs, tappets... still noisy! I used my TDC finder but one part of the tool fall into the cylinder So no choice but to take the head out... and I had instant explanation. A print on the piston and and the head. I changed the head gasket and no more noise! The bottom is rebuilt with std parts, std pistons, the head is MN47... It's an Euro spec engine, but I don't think there is any difference in the bottom end.

My F54 flat pistons, MN47, and felpro gasket was a no-no with the pistons hitting the flat part of the chamber just above the spark-plug. Really almost nothing yet a direct contact on all cylinders!

So called OEM "Flat piston" aren't really flat, they have a small raised surface, not much but enough to contact the head with the Fel-pro on mine anyway. You could really see the metal where the contact was, all the rest was already spray with carbon dust. I had marks on the pistons AND on the head, the valves cannot hurt the head me think? After thinking it doesn't have anything to do with a previous milling because this part of the head is flat to start with, and for the piston sake, all that's above the chamber doesn't count, right? The car is running great now with the other head gasket, I will collect data on the PC to fine tune my FI MAP before going to the rolling stand.

Please, do believe that I have check, double check and check again the pistons to valve clearance I am taking here about the domed part of the piston hitting the flat part of the chamber just above the spark plug. I am sure it's that because I took the head out, and I have a small mark on the piston and on the head, nothing on the valves. The bottom end is rebuild by me, all was still in original spec, just renew all the seals, cleaned and rebuild. The head is unknown. I cleaned-it, gave it a pass on a late (close to nothing just to have a nice part), ported the Ex and Int, made grooves for sienZe sake and put it on with a Felpro. So maybe it's that the head have been milled in a previous life, + the Felpro is 1 mm resulting in a 0,15 mm issue. I just hope that the pounding didn't harm the cap bearing, time will tell!

Just to let you all know that an F54 with flat top pistons and a felpro head-gasket may sound funny. Kinda funny when the piston gently hit the flat part of the head, it make a tic tic tic very entertaining. I had to take the head out and put a thicker head-gasket. No more noise, only music. It's less than a .10 mm problem, yet it doesn't fit in mine.

?????????????????????????????????????? question Does it really matter to use the "bright link" when only changing the position of the sprocket relative to the cam's dowel. Say from 0 to 1 May I just mark the link where the dowel is and use this mark as my new "bright link" ?????????? Fiddling with this sprocket isn't my idea of fun I always need 10 minutes to put it back. BTW do we have to really take the sprocket of the cam? I never checked to see if there is enough space to leave the sprocket on the cam and rotate it? And I am not on the car to have look

Just found out today... and they're closed

I have a Kent cam but no card with it It's a 311 that's all I can tell. I would like to set the timing spot on Any one have a table from Kent?

I will try it on my L28 Flat pistons with a MN47... and FI Honestly, I don't thing there is anything to loose, one CC less is in fact better on this combo. I will take the car to a dyno soon to tune up my new FI, I will let you know all the figures Funny the one thing that I am concerned is not mentioned anywhere! Cracking the head from the groove... I have seen L serie heads cracked before at the port. I guess we have plenty of "meat" in the flat area where the groove goes?

It's still a prototype, the wires will be almost invisible. I will use a rolling bench end of the month to get some figures. Today I would say that it's working as strong as all the 40' webers I tried. I will try it with a bored N36 intake manifold to bring even more air for + 6000 rpm

Thanks, what are the size in ITS?

Have you a pict of a 240Z with those "skate board" combo? How does it look? I am about to buy AVON CR6ZZ in 185/70r14 'cause I am afraid of the look of the small tires

Yep, standard looking SU injecting fuel like mad

A taste of French scenery First a buddy's Then mine, with a FI twist! Look up close

Jeeeeeeeez, I think you're right. I will double check. I may have a NISMO cam pulley instead of a KAMEARI Would be stange if one goes with 2° increments and the other by 3°

1 2 3 4 A B C D 0 3 6 9 -3 -6 -9 -12 Honsowetz is wrong on the 2° it's actually 3°

I found one Kameari cheap, great! But cheap mean it's without any spec. Who knows for sure the spec. of this sprocket? I found everything on the web the most consistent is +9 to -12 in 3° increments. While on the holly book of Datsun Engine Prep it's 2° increments??????????

I started the work on my MN47 (thanks to the provider ) by the exhaust port There is a ridge almost 0.7 mm deep under the valve seat? I told it to my Dremel and the thought of carving that rich aluminium turned it on what about the recess for the spark plug, it's very angular, should I smooth-it a bit? I have compression to spare with my Flat top L28, so a bit more CC wouldn't be a problem I guess.

Not my average "sponge cake"... I am trying to figure it, ain't sure yet, but ti's coming The good thing is that it can be done. I will check the spec of my cam. I only should need ONE hole. With your help I might figure out where?

Question about the standard sprocket: Could we drill it to the same spec as the 8 holes Kameari? I have 3 almost new cam sprockets and wonder if I could give them to a machinist with a precise draft to have him drill the extra holes for the advance/retard timing adjustment?

Question about the standard sprocket: Could we drill it to the same spec as the 8 hole Kameari? I have 3 almost new cam sprockets and wonder if I could give them to a machinist with a precise draft to have him drill the extra hole for the 1 deg timing adjustment?

I am concerned about that! I will be using the std feelpro headgasket, what are the inputs on that matter? I need the specific size of the N47 valves for the guys at SI Valves. btw the exhaust valve is 35 on the N47 and 36 on the P90. If I use the N47 valves should I change the P90 seats? Thanks

What size would they be?