rp975

Here is a link to a guy who has done the R32 rear end into an S30, he said that he would do it again , and I am going to check it out as I am considering doing this. http://www.zcarclub.com.au/SANY0064.JPG

I think she go Bang!

Thanks , I just got a 280z manual online that states 5.5" rim width, and I am waiting for a parts list to arrive in the mail. With the "Z-Series Datsuns" I will have to see if I have this book at home or where to get one. Thanks again. Rob

Thanks guys, What I am trying to do is find documentation that would show if there was a 5.5" rim width offered on any of the S30 z cars. This way my engineer can show that the suspension parts are the same part numbers and that the Nissan engineers allow for 5.5" in rim width, then there is some precedent . Our rules state that we can widen the rims up to 1.5" from standard if the car is after 1973, before 1973 you can widen 2". This is if the car is under 1200kg. There are different rules for different weights. My 260z is a 1974 model, came with 5" rims and I am wanting to use a 7" rim width. So now I have to find part numbers for the suspension to show that they are the same for the 260z and the 280z. Thanks Rob

Hi, I am wondering if the US 280z came out standard with wider than 5" width rims? If they did I am after info to give to my engineer to warrant going to a 7" width rim. In New South Wales , Australia, we can only increase the rim width legally by 1.5" if the car is after 1973 and under 1200kg. So I am trying to find info on the later s30 280z, or if there was a turbo s30 that had wider rims than 5" . My car is a 1974 260z.

zcarnut, thanks your write up was very detailed, and my friend who works at SKF just came in and confirmed exactly what you said. Now I need to work out how to get the pins out of the bottom of the struts and then to find a machinist that can machine out the axle housing. Rob

Thanks for the write up zcarnut, did you have to remove the strut tube from the hub housing to fit it in the lathe? Rob

I hope that this is not too confusing. The bearings on the 260z stub are both the same , inner & outer. Whereas on the Z31 the outer bearing is larger inside & outside diameter than the 260z one,( and also wider 22mm compared with 17.4mm 260z) and the inner bearing is smaller outside and larger inside than 260z. So in any case there will have to be a different bearing for the inside of the axle which will have the outside diameter of the 260z and the inside if the Z31 bearing. With the outside bearing if we can’t get a bearing with the outside dia of the 260z and the inside of the Z31 there are two options. 1, to machine out the housing 2mm in Diameter (it has a wall thickness of 5mm so 1mm less each side is probably OK) or 2, to machine the stub axle down to the size of the 260z(35mm down to 31.6mm) These are rough dimensions : 260z Both inner & outer bearings Outside dia = 69.9mm Inside dia = 31.6mm Width = 17.4mm Z31 Outside bearing (double row ball race) Outside dia = 72mm Inside dia = 35mm Width = 22mm Inner bearing Outside dia = 62mm Inside dia = 29.9mm Width = 16mm Also when looking at the axle from the side, the distance from the outside of the hub (where the wheel bolts) to the inside edge of the outside bearing is 43mm on the Z31 and 40.5mm on the 260z. Rob

Here are some pictures of Z31 & 260z rear axles, I will get back with some measurements soon,my friend came over last night, he works for SKF, and he is looking into poss bearings for swap. I had to take the rear suspension out to get the stub axles out. The rear housing wall thickness is 5mm where the outer bearing fits, to give you an idea if the housing has to be machined to fit the Z31 bearing, that would remove 1mm from each side leaving 4mm wall thickness. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3597 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3596 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3595 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3594 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3593 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3592 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3591http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3590 Rob

Hi Tony, Is this the link? http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~satotats/zhp/z17p/index.htm First first, the hub must be produced outside 8mm. Then, the spacer of the aluminum is made between the hub and the bearing.(Translated from Japanese) I have translated the text under each photo, so where there are a few lines gap it is the next photo. As for the spacer of the aluminum the genuine way way the rubbish and the water do not enter in the bearing, Just 0 and 5 mm you take clearance in the place where the bearing enters and produce. When the bearing is inserted, it becomes this way. Naturally, it meaning that either gong plain gauze side does not become the 8mm not stuffing て, it processes the hub. In order for the spline to remain, at the same time pressing in to the bearing, as been able to maintain strength, it processes. That and, the hub is R31 gong plain gauze diversion special it has producing in the friend. The bearing adjusting comes exactly middle. The rear license plate originally in this kind of way, but. Center, the part where the hub enters is expanded, It adjusts to the position of S30Z with 2 place long hole processing and 2 place new establishments. The hub is produced outside and is last and the rotor enters, it set to the kind of size where but height of the hat with problem Because it is the last line which cannot put out either the hub above this, the part where the Indian ram of the rotor reverse side enters The ear is deleted and the space is made. The part where color has changed, it meaning that the ear is about 5 mm, it deleted that. In addition, size of rotor R34GT-R? N1 size it meaning that in presser is 316 mm vis-a-vis 322mm About 3 mm it stuffed also rotor outer circle at diameter, the caliper - it bevelled the part which hits with リューター. In leaving, this time offset 3mm of the rotor is not agreeable. (マジ it does or) The caliper - the stay 3mm probably will be pulled or, between the hub and the rotor the spacer and the like You thought, but after all being to be problem large strength and to be, 3 days you were troubled, removing the rear license plate (Nearly 10 times it unites at this point in time and/or removes the drum......) The reinforcement of 5mm the good れ て clamp face 3mm is pulled on the reverse side. When clearing... with you think with this When the side wire is attached, the wire is pulled, you install and direct bomb hit, cannot pull the lever in bolt (laughing) Whether one basis unconcern you tried probably not to be able to conceive, but with the thunder thickness of the head of volt/bolt shaving included Once, because torque caught, it does well with this and with does. It understand does that color of the volt/bolt which exactly to the place of the lever is different? Conception 3 minute (you happened to think and the Bali Bali) job 3 month (laughing) perfect were attached! ! End is the side wire. The side wire comes out of this position. It is clearance of the rotor and the rear license plate, you think that you understand. The variety it hit, but after all in presser and connecting S30 genuine, it produces. It is the drum of the wire, but when it makes with caulking, there is a self-confidence which it comes out with room, (laughing) When it keeps shaving genuine, being to be the kind of feeling which melts the aluminum The split pin of suitable size in order the inserting accompanying to enter in completely, low was attached to the point of the wire. When those which it produces are shaved because it has unified completely, you think that there is no problem. Being the drum bitterly to be possible, it reuses the S30Z genuine part there. The wire installation part of body side is pressed in to the wire of in presser which cuts off length together for the second time. As for link itself of the side wire you used genuine and produced the wire installation part with the aluminum. Perfect it was settled in the range which can be adjusted for the second time. The side is effective with 2 notches The front caliper - is. Pulling the plan, it had making the stay in the friend. It is the aluminum make, but being to produce with the material which has the strength like the iron it is relief. Because the rotor is produced with putting, in order for the rotor to enter, hub outer circle is processed. The rotor being to be for R33GT-R is OK with 4 hole processing and hub Enlargement After installing, the caliper - changing to size, you laughed. Such there is no necessity, the shank (suicide bombing) When lastly, the wheel is attached, the wheel balancer which has been upholstered - weight hit...... When above 10g you attach, the caliper - direct bomb hit... the people who are holding, the stomach until you say, you have not laughed.

Well I have a Hybrid Z (ZED) VQ30DET underway.

Hi Tonycharger, Here is a photo of the trans x member. And there is a thread over at Classic Zcar with a bunch of photos. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16550&page=1&pp=15&highlight=vq otherwise I have a lot more photos of the x member that I can send you if you want. The x member is a lot further back than the original and the original mounting for the xmember in the tunnel had to be removed to allow clearance for the larger trans. Then I had to reinforce the tunnel inside the car as well with 2mm thick steel plate. Are you going to make your own? And is the trans mount close to the original x member?

Hey Tonycharger72, yes it is a 99 model VQ30det from a Nissan Cedric from japan, it is narrower but taller with an alloy block and a timing chain instead of a belt. Supposed to be 206kw and I have the engine and trans crossmembers done. I too am looking into what to do with regards to 5 stud hubs and brakes. Rob

I have just posted some pictures in the gallery and also in my gallery if this is of some help. Rob