rp975

I was going to use trailer hubs here in Australia as they would give me the correct offset, but my engineer didn't like the idea so I bought a pair from Hoppers Stoppers as part of a front brake package. They are made from 4140 and have a ford stud pattern 5 x 4.5" and are used with the disc rotor going on the outside which then moves the wheel out 9mm from standard. This may not be of much use as I am in Australia, but the concern would be the strength of the trailer hubs, as trailers probably don't have that much side thrust. Rob

Hi Bloz Up, I am just curious, but isn't the cross member in backwards? Rob

Hi, I have a 1974 260z that is 904 white in colour, and I wondered if anybody knows where I can find touch up paint to match this in Australia? Rob

Hi turbonat240, Thanks for the comment on the mounts, I am just doing what my engineer is asking for. The trans on my car is an auto, possibly a CVT(constant variable transmission) I will not know for sure untill I get it going. I do not know for sure, but I would expect that the VQ30det and VQ35de have the same block and external dimensions although the intake would probably be different. There is a guy with a silver 240Z with a VQ35de installed that I have seen on one of the forums in past events pictures, although he has his motor further forward, not behind the crossmember. Here is a link to a pic of the car. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14961&cat=3226 Rob

Hi, I don't know if this is of any help, but I am installing a VQ30det into my 1974 260z. Here is a link to some pics. http://img99.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img99%2F5987%2F1144737001afm.smil Rob

Hi, Here is a link to a website that has converted these lights into a Toyota, it was in Japanese but hopefully it is now translated. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://cgi30.plala.or.jp/soaristo/cgi-bin/imDCIMG/im_dcman.cgi%3Fmode%3Dcontent&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dcima%2Bmulti%2Bprojector%2Bheadlight%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2004-19,GGLD:en I have also seen these headlights in a white s30 in Japan, I have a picture of it on my bench at work, I am not sure where I found it on the web but I will try and find it. Rob

Hi , From what I understand Nixcars took Skyline GTR wheels to his wheel guy in Woollongong, New South Wales, Australia and had the centers removed from the rims and then mounted into wider rims, pretty neat hey.

Hi triple B, We do not have these motors in Oz normally, they are import only from Japan. I think that they came out in Hy33 and Hy34 nissan Cima and Cedric. I bought a front 1/2 cut of a 99 model Hy34 Cedric, mine might also have a CVT (constant variable transmission) style of auto, I won't know for sure untill I get it going. I also bought a worshop manual from Japan, and guess what ,it is in Japanese!!! der. It will be interesting when I get to the wiring stage. Rob

Hi Sparks280zt, Thanks, mine is a VQ30det neo from a HY34 99 model Cedric, it has an alloy block and a timing chain, single turbo. Rob

Hi, I am part way through putting a VQ30det neo into my 1974 260z, I don't know how to put the pctures up here but there are some pics in my gallery. Rob

Hi all, The question that I would like to know is what are you guys going to do about the forward link in the above photo,as where the inner mounting or pivot piont for this arm is, it doesn't clear the standard s30 unibody? I have seen an r32 rear sub frame put into an s30 and that person moved this mounting point down to next to the lower control arm mounting point, but this changes how the wheel acts, as it moves up it aslo moves inward which doesn't seem like a good idea to me. What have you guys done , or what do you think about this?

Quote; Hey rp, have you seen Jamie T's rear hubs? Yes I have seen them, they are amazing. I am hoping to use part of the original hub housing casting, machine part of it away ( approx 8mm from the back to clear the cv axles) and from the front 22mm back from the back plate flange, then weld in a 12mm plate to mount the new rear hubs to. I would also have to put in some bracing from the hub housing to the strut tube. If my engineer doesn't like this I will look at doing some thing like Jamie T. Rob

Hi Brycey, I spent 4 hrs with the guy in Sydney who has done this and he was very helpfull, he let me take lots of pics and explained how it was done. I have also been and measured up the rear ends of r32, r33 Skyline and z32 as well and have lots of pics of these as well. Maybe we should meet to talk about the options as it would probably take a lot of time to put it onto the forum? I am looking to modify the s30 rear hubs to allow the rear hubs from an r33 skyline to bolt on and use the cv axles shortened and the short nose r200 diff with a custom cradle. I am checking this out with my engineer at the moment to see what he thinks. Rob

Hi, I am also looking at doing something similar to this with r33 skyline rear diff, axles and hubs, by modifying the s30 rear hubs to allow the skyline hubs to bolt on. I am checking this with my engineer to see what he thinks. It will be good to see what you do with yours. Rob

Hi, I am looking into fitting the diff and shortened axles from an R33 skyline into my project ( VQ30det 260z) if I can get the go ahead from my engineer. I hope to machine back the outside of the hub housing and weld in a new 12mm thick steel plate which will have the rear skyline hubs bolt onto, it would then need extra bracing welded on to support the hub housing and tie it to the strut tube. That is the plan at this stage, I have done some drawings and sent them to my engineer and will have to disguss it with him. The z32 has a very similar set up with the rear as the skylines, although going this way gives you the 5 stud wheel pattern.

Hi Richard, Yes you are right I did move the engine back as far as I could to clear the original x-member, this means that I have to use custom intake plenum and exhaust manifolds, but I have seen pics of a z-car with a VQ35 in it where the engine is very much toward the front of the engine bay. If this was done with the VQ30det then you might clear the x-member and have room for the exhaust to come around the back of the engine as well as the intake coming from behind. For the sump to be modified you would have to do a fair bit of fab and alloy welding as the sump for the most part is cast alloy.Not impossible though. A few things I liked the idea of with the VQ over the VG engine was the light weight, the power and economy ,timing chain instead of belt and a newer engine that had won design awards for many years, also the poss of more parts available in years to come. Rob

I am going to use the single turbo with custom manifolds, the stock set up has the exhaust from one side going around the back of the engine to meet the other side, but I want to go under the engine where there is clearance in the sump for what was a x-member and steering rack, to come up to meet the other side and poss have the turbo where the battery was( my car is right hand drive).Here are some pics of the sump. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4452&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4451&cat=500&page=1 And here is a pic of the stock set up with exhaust & turbo. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1314&cat=500&page=1 Rob

Thanks, I am not sure what it will weigh when finished, I will have to wait untill it is finished. The engine is moved right back and will have to have new custom intake plenum (partly done) and custom exhaust manifolds made. From what I have read about this motor, which is a NEO version of the VQ30det is that it will have 206kw or 280hp in standard form. There is also a guy who has put a VQ35 into an early z car. Rob

Hi, I am putting a VQ30det into my 260z, and have the engine sitting in the engine bay with new cross members and engine mounts. Here are some pics on my conversion. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2765&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2767&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3078&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2766&cat=500&page=1 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16550&highlight=vq30det

I have attached a photo of a spindle pin remover for you. You buy a lenght of threaded rod and nuts from a hardware store, a length of round or squatre tube just larger than the diameter of the spindle pin and will allow a wheel nut to pass through it. You then weld a wheel nut( which is the same thread as the spindle pin) onto the end of the threaded rod. As you can see this is then screwed onto the end of the spindle pin(as in photo). Then the tube has a washer on the end and when you put this over the threaded rod and put a nut on the end, you can tighten the nut and it will draw the spindle pin out of the housing. It helps if you can soak the ends of the pins overnight each end. Rob http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3738&cat=500&page=2

Hi Maichor, When you did your swap what was the clearance like with the top forward arm and support bracket like? I have attached a photo of the party that I am talking about. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3933 Did you cut away the frame where this comes close? This seems to be the only thing that creates a problem for me with this type of rear swap. Rob