MaTTSuN

My current set up is MS2 with relay board,stock 81 L28Turbo with CAS,stock turbo @9psi,340cc ford injectors,3inch exhaust with Cat,LC1 WB.Large FMIC. this was stated on page 2 I was looking for my timing light but it looks like its not at my place. So i just played with the setting until it would start fairly fast. My goal at the end of the day is something that starts the same as a regular car. I get lots of compliments on the car and people always look. when it takes a while for it to start it kind of takes the shine off having a classic car. Like i have stated before im not going to "upgrade" until i get this set up working as good as it can. Thanks again for your suggestions NewZed

My next project after getting it back on the road will prob be EDIS ignition, hoping that might clear things up. "Might"

I couldn't find my timing light but i did manage to get it starting without touching the throttle. I played with the timing a little and the cranking pulse width as well. Going all over the place i finally settled on 10deg crank timing and 1.0ms for cranking pulse width. It still kicks sometimes, each start is a little different then the last but it start with in 3 seconds, Thats allot better than where is was a month ago. Thanks again for all your tips. Matt

Define standard tune up Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, airfilter, oil change? Did an oil change, cleaned the K&N plugs are not to old. Cap and Rotor and wires are not new, but dont have allot of miles since they were changed. Timing is set to 15deg advanced on start up. Sometimes "rare" it fires up almost instantly. so i know the set up is capable might just be a loose ....something Matt

Havent got it perfect but it start allot better with the new battery. Still havent ordered the EDIS stuff yet. I kind of want to get everything working correctly before i "upgrade" anything else. When i start it, it still feels like its fighting back when the ignition hits but the battery has enough juice now to fire it up. Im going to say %90 of the issue i was having was from my battery. But its the other %10 that i need to work a little harder on these are the unknow problems with wiring or crank sensor. Thanks again for your ideas guys. Matt

sorry for the delay, Managed to murder my battery so it was hard to know whats wrong, the battery or the tune. Just put in a Optima yellow top this morning and it starts allot stronger but still needs some tuning. Did have a chance to tune this morning but will have some time tonight to play with it after work More to come ...

Im starting to feel the same way. The more questions i ask the more issues with old wiring i find. One thing i do know is its something in the ignition so im going to spend some time this weekend to go through all the wiring that i last put together 7 years ago. Already found some broken wires in the coil, fixed those with no real change in start up time. Im leaning towards the CAS wiring now. the 3 wire's coming off it. connected them to the MS2 with a trailer weather connection. Might be time to redo that connection. The reason i think its the CAS is at cranking it might not be getting a strong enough signal at lower voltages, once it starts its usually fine. Is there a way to bench test the sensor it self? Im prob going to order the parts to go EDIS monday if there is no improvement with my current set up. Thanks for all the replies it definitely helps with my own brain storming. Ill try and get some pics up to give this thread some Meat Matt

To go EDIS its 145$ for parts to uprade to MS3 from MS2 its 200$ What will this upgrade do for me? I can already tune with MS2 I know the MS3 has 16x16 resolution but not sure what other benifits it has. The full MS3 is close to 600$ a lot out of my current budget Id like to do this "tune up" for 200 or less. From what i have read EDIS can help. My current set up is MS2 with relay board,stock 81 L28Turbo with CAS,stock turbo @9psi,340cc ford injectors,3inch exhaust with Cat,LC1 WB.Large FMIC. My goal is to run 15psi. and have it work like a regular car, starting and sitting in traffic some times. If that can be achieved with a little tuning and this upgrade i may sell it. But id like to get it to that happy place because it is a fun car to drive Matt

RacerZ and NewZed you make a good point. I cant remember the last time i did my valve check but i know i've done it before. So i guess now is as good a time as any. Im also going to look into different spark plugs, I went with the platinum small tip one on my last change. think ill go back to the stock NGK's to try and get everything baselined Im not going to get into wires, and cap and rotor because i would rather just get my EDIS system ordered. Id like to get that set up by the end of the month. Yasin, Thanks for the Guru advice ill give Kurt a shout and see what he thinks. I appreciate all your guys help and ill be sure to put some vids up of my "regular starting Z" as soon as it does so. Back to work this week so not sure how much time ill have to tinker with the Z but i want to drive it pretty bad since i havent had a real drive to test the 17" Kumho XS' 245/275 tires or the arizona brakes. Thanks again Matt

Tight Valves? would that make a difference? I havent checked them in a while, i dont think that would fix the issues im having but its on my list to check now. Who is Kurt? is he a megasquirt guru? I think if i can get a known good starting tune, I could narrow down everything else from that. IE "tight valve" My battery has been trickle charging all night so i should have some good juice to play with today. would love to try a few tunes to see the difference, since its pretty easy to burn one on the ECU Matt

Ok i just spent a couple hours playing with it, and its pretty sad... maybe im fixing one thing and hurting another side of my tune. I played with everything to do with cranking, holding it at different timing angles but it still wont start. When i first started playing with it it started, not right away but it started. So i let it warm up and tried to get into tuning......2 hours later couldnt even get it started close but no start. Could someone send me there tune so i can see if it works. Not sure what im missing but its something. Have my battery on the charger now so i have some time to figure it out haha the goal is to start with in 3 seconds....but now it wont start at all. It always starts better when its cold as well. once it warms up its a bit of a pain. I guess i forgot to mention that, just remembered Tried everyones ideas but a MSQ would make me just a little happy Im running fuel and spark with a 81CAS, should be the same setting as any distributor Thanks Matt

Id like to go wasted spark soon but need to use this set-up for a little while still

i was looking at my pressure and it come up to 40psi almost right away, so ill have to dig in the ignition setting some more. to top it off i think my battery is starting to kick it. only reads 10 volts on Tuner studio ... I need to fin the receipt so i can exchange it. Its really hard to tune a start up sequence when the battery dies really fast.... I got it to start once and the voltage was at 13.5-14 so i know the alternator it working as far as my set up its a stock fuel rail with ford 340cc injectors stock regulator, stock style fuel pump. i also have an accel coil for spark, maybe a little better then the stock one... on your guys set-ups, do you have an upgraded ignition with the MS? Thanks

thanks for the Ideas guys, How small is a "really small" leak? I have a fuel gauge on my fuel rail and its at 40psi when i turn the key on. I havent watched while cranking though. Before i start the car the gauge reads 0 so there is a leak somewhere maybe an injector..... it takes time to get to 0 maybe a hour or 2 and i dont have a cold start injector Ill try playing with the PW and timing as well, I think its a little advanced while cranking should have some results later today:-) thanks again Matt

Well i sorted out my wiring issue and got my car started again after a long winter break. What i was wondering if im missing something in the settings to get it to start faster. It usually takes 10-15 seconds of cranking before i finally get it to run. And its not very pretty get there, with it seemingly getting little ignition kicks until it finally starts. Im running MS2 with spark and fuel, running the 81 cas. Ill probably be upgrading to an EDIS set up sometime this summer but would like to get it to start like a normal car "cranking for 1-4 seconds" then starting. So i guess my question is, Where in the setting should i be adjusting that effects start time? Any ideas? Thanks: Matt

Havent yet, I want to get everything running perfect before i change anything. But i really want to do it to get it to start better. Once started its been fine but getting it started is not cool most of the time Ill been ordering the parts soon

I found the problem... problems. - It the wire coming from the coil to the MS it must have been wanting to let go for a while, finally did and i found it. -The Other was the switch 12v 4ohm resisted wire to the MS it also broke She is running strong now, This might be a sign to rewire the MS again, since its been 5ish years and ive learned allot since then. Its also a good time to re route the wires to help clean up the engine bay Thanks for your help Hybridz......now to pass aircare "smog check" Last time i failed, maybe it was due in part to these loose connections not giving enough spark... Matt

ok so i charged the battery up. and started playing with settings. I changed fuel settings, timing settings and just about everything i could think of. One at a time of course. No matter what i did the best result i could get was the same, engine fires but will not idle and i can not use the throttle to do anything. It just dies... could it be a wiring problem? i re wired the relay board but it looks ok. what wires would do this if they were wrong? Matt

Ill Look into those settings, thanks guys. I know its not the ignition switch because i can get it to run on 3 cylinders when i take one of the injector fuses I have next week off so hopefully get it back on the road getting excited about the old girl again after a long winter sleep

Sold my winter car so its time to dust the Z off When i turn the key it fires but dies right away. No matter what i do with the throttle it will not run. At first i had a burnt injector fuse and it would run on 3 cylinders, but when i put a new fuse in it would fire and die right away. It was doing this to me before when i had it on the road but goes away after trying to start for a while. Now it just wont run Any ideas? I have MS2 running fuel and ignition on a stock 81 turbo motor with larger injectors. It also has the 81 CAS not the later style dizzy one

Thanks for the offer but i think grinding the wheel and tucking the sensor in the back would be allot cleaner install, and cost more time then money. Still havent started on this upgrade but id like to get it done by the end of the month....

If i shave the wheel could i still run the stock CAS? does it pick up off all 60 or just the 4 or 5 magnets? Just in case i want to shave before my parts come ....

yeah maybe even less with "nothing" on the car. But then its not a car, just a husk;-) Reading all this bad feedback for the tranny im fully expecting it to let go at any time. Ive taken it on a few road trips into the mountains, longest one 5 hours each way, but she still feels ok. We will see i guess:-)

Any pics of your progress? Matt

I think you would have to do some major work to get these boats down to 2500lbs, with that being siad i know of a guy that bought a Q45 gutted it at the track, then ran 12's or was it 13's Either way the car has some potential. My 93 Q45 is my daily driver now "bought for the winter" and i love the engine. tranny seams ok but i dont beat on it very hard......On the NICO forum the trannies do seam like they pop at around 150k I think i might keep the engine in the Q and have it as my people mover untill i have enough for a 2009 GTR I may do some mods to it and see how it does at an autoX for fun