MaTTSuN

RX8 wheels 18x... 225s Mustang gt rims 17x8.. 245 tires the mustangs are going to be my rims they will fill the zgs perfect the RX8 wheels fit in the stock fenders

i was looking at my autometer gauge while boosting yesterday and its boost falls off after 4k rpm .... maybe im getting boost leak from the waste gate. i know i have some exauste leaks at the manifold but i dont think thats it because it always dilivered power like this.... any thoughts?

if the gauge is faulty and everything is hooked up why would it bleed boost after 4000 rpm?

thats a good idea ill try that i thought autometer was a good gauge.... hope its something else

i have an autometer boost gauge and it reads 7 psi when i boosting full the gauge is hooked up at the back of the manifold the vacume line for the MAP sensor for the megasquirt is hooked up closer to the throttle body when i was driving around yesterday the computer showed 5.5psi then dropped slowly at 4k rpm but the auto meter still showed 7psi which one should i go by? i know my exauste has some leaks at the head to manifold but this is silly

ive replaced all the bushings ith poly bushings the tires are new on it now and balance im leaning more to alignment because the front left tire has allot of wear on the inside of the tire looking like its scrubingallot comp to the other side i checked my wheel bearings and they are ok havent checked my ball joints or stearing knuckles yet, but im thinking of replacing them because they are prob stock and that means really old haha when i get my fender flairs next week ill lower my car back down and get an alignment to sort this baby out

i just went throught the same thing with my autox last sunday, i cut a 3inch plate from sheet metal and drilled some holes in it i spot welded it inside the pipe there was allot less noise but i did loose some power when i got to the track there was some louder cars running with no prob so i drilled the welds out and ran my 3 inch setup

I put new wheels on and i was hoping this would go away but it is the same as before so that leads me to belive its the suspension some where when i go about 100kmh /60mph my stearing wheel will shutter in my hands but the car feels like its stable other then a slight pull to the left I am thinking it might be the rack since depending what side i turn full lock it will pull a differnt way when i get rolling again just slightly can these things be the same problem? i have urathane bushings on the rack maybe its not clamped tight enough..... any thoughts?

i raised it up a bit and wow what a difference it makes in the corners. Ill be getting an alignment when i put my new rims on and get the cars corner weights set up as far as aero i have plans for a flat bottom ... well as flat as i can get it.. cant wait to try some real rubber on this thing

I am looking to tune my cars handling for high speed corners "above 100km" right now i have coil overs and tokico 5 ways and urathane bushings it feels a little sketchy on bumps and transitions from right to left or vise versa i know my tires are a weak point and im upgrading next week to 17x8 with 245 rubber im running 14x8 supra rims with 235s on the rear and 225 on the front (old rubber) as far as corner weighting how do the Z's like to be weighted? 50 50? 60 40? does camber play a large roll in stability? Matt

mnie are in the mail cant wait to get them what kind of wheels did you guys use with them? i have some mustang 17x9s to go on and will be trying some rx8 18s as well

i was just thinking of putting my 81 l28T top end onto a 80s l28 N/A low miles bottom end im looking to improve low end response and power for milage so i dont have to rev it out to get moving i think i have all the right parts to keep it in the sweet spot for durability 15 psi should be ko for this set up i think..

oh ill look into that... shouldnt the master cylinder build pressure and thats what give the pedal its feel?

the spring look fugly but it still has a fair bit of pressure when i depress the booster out of the car it may be a bleeding issue im going to put it all back together and bleed the balls off it and go from there may even rebuild the booster for fun since i messed up the retainer clip and rubber thingy under it

that is called the "reaction disk" and it is in there, the plunger and the disk is stuck in the housing i shook the booster around and there is nothing loose save for some rust ;-P

took my booster off today i have a 78 280z the problem ive been trying to fix is my brake pedal is way to light the brakes seem to work fine but there is not much resistance when i push on the brakes it used to be allot worse befor i put my rear disks on more of a reaction disk symptom no brakes then all brakes looking at my booster it is pretty rusty, looking on the inside i can see the spring looking scaly white not sure where to go from here - maybe the booster is getting o much vacuum assist? - some of the rust isnt letting the booster seal....then the brakes might be hard? -master cylinder needs a rebuild? or upgrade ? i just want brakes that feel like they should grrr 'Matt

mine is flat white for now, will paint glossy white in the spring my last one was "fleet white" it was a very nice straight white

1350 kg with me and a buddy works out to about 2595lbs with nobody in it

interesting and thats wheel hp right?

well i wieghed my car its 2766 with me in it 180lbs and over half a tank of gas not to bad at all i guess my 2800lb guess on my first run was pretty close i have a few things to adress befor i make anymore runs id love to get it down to 2500 with me in it

hmm interesting. it likes "1 deg" at idle but maybe its not really 1deg? im pretty sure ive checked it with a light when i first set up the megasquirt. ill look at some maps and go from there. going to take the timing light out again maybe tomorrow it still seams to fall on its face @ 5500 im starting to think its a timing thing it should pull hard to 6000rpm...no?

im talking about the spark map like what kind of advance under vac and then what kind of advance under boost ive found i can get a nice clean idle with 1 deg of timing it just hums along

i was playing around with my timing yesterday with my megasquirt and found that dropping my timing down from 33-38ish to 30 across the board i picked up some hp i know being advanced is a good way to be safe with a turbo, i was wondering how low i should go befor i should expect problems i have a stock 81 turbo with an intercooler and 3 inch exaust what does the stock turbo run for timing? Matt

i am using PWM mode with my stock ones well if they are 370cc even better thanks Z-ya

I got some 340cc ford green top injectors and was wondering if anyone knew the settings for megasquirt i have the stock 81 280zxturbo in there now and i know these will be a big improvement over my stock 30 year old ones any help to get close would be amazing thanks Matt