MaTTSuN

well i am just replacing the banged up bar in front of the rad at the bottom I have the Rad out for repairs anyways here is some pics i have some red lines where i want to cut im going to angle the fence tube just like the stock piece but it will be round i think it will look good and its free since i have everything i might even have some 3inch stainless but i dont have a stainless welder just a little mig pak with sheilded wire what kind of nasty stuff does the galvanized do? ill be sure not to weld it ....anymore yikes reminds me of a funny story back in the day my dad used to cut "sheets" of aspestos with a skill saw..... he is doing well still at 58 hehe safety is a good thing and thanks for the warning Matt car pics 002.zip

how much are those brake boosters anyhow thing looks like hell as well as doesnt work very well im guessing should just get a new shinny one is there a better one that bolts on IE a 280zx booster? ill prob be buying new if the later gen has an advantage ill go for that thnks Matt

im going to cut the lower rad suport out today and thinking what i should use to replace it i have lots of fence post around... not sure if thats strong enuf ha round tube might look cool ....

i have not touched the booster since i got the car ill check if the vacume line is plugged or something like that today

well before i took my car off the road last year i was having issues with my brakes. The brake's had a very hard pedal but no modulation its like on or off This is not the way anyone would like and i was wondering if there might be something wrong in my system some where. I have all stock brakes on my 78 280z i put new pads on the front, new shoes on the rear and new wheel cylinders, hard lines on the rear as well i also put new rubber flex lines all around i bled the brakes a few time just to make sure i got everything so in the end the pedal moves down a little then its rock hard and very hard if not imposable to modulate could it be the master cylinder? or another adjustment? i really want to autoX this bad boy and the brakes are one of the last things i need to sort out thanks: Matt

the v710 comes in 223 50 14 im thinking of gonig with that tire

im leaning toward the 14s because of the small and wideness 225 50 14 the snows will be my street tires or just get another set or supra rims i like the way they look

ok im going to start autoX'ing my car this year just wondering what i should use for wheels i have a set of celica supra wheels 14x7 and a set of snow flake turbo wheels 15x6 i think they are im thinking i should use the 14s since they are wider but would the 15's be better for any reason? also what is a good tire for autoX quick warm up and "long" lasting thnks Matt

rite sorry ill do it when im home this weekend sometime now that i can help people on this site it feels good ive gotten allot of great help myself and now is the time to pass it on hybridz is the best

here you go try this hope it helps my AFR are like 13 at idle and the afr's are about 14.5 driving in vac in boost they are like 12 i think let me know how it does Matt newmsq.zip

use the metro msq on mobys post in the sticky thats what i used to start and went from there i tried to attatch mine but it wouldnt load "invalid file".... good luck

i got one from my buddy the other day just wondering if anyone has one hooked up to there MS. i also got a large NPR intercooler and plan on turning my boost up a bit not sure on the settings for the boost controller. anyone using one?

if it does not work i would not want to put it on my car if it didnt work it would be very rice

id like to know this as well thinking of turning the boost up and would love to know if the stock knock sensor will work with megasquirt

im going to be going over all the lines and pull the plugs and check the valves i really dont want to put a cat on since my muffler is tucked up when the cat should go can u put a cat at the end of the exaust or is there not enuf heat to make it work, i really dont want a cat just wondering ha ill be messing with my idle tune and try to make it as steady as possable what other settings can i change to make the spark hotter or more intense at idle? this weekend ill be going full force on this badboy thanks again

ok so what im getting is have the timing down to about 12-14 get the afr to 14.7 and get the idle as high as posable i had my idle at like 1000 i think the limit is 1200 ill try and get 1150 it goes up and down about 100 or so while its idleing is there any settings in the spark menue i can work with as well? like dwell? i could turn the fan off aswell when the guy gets into my car to do the test and that should help burn at low rpm ill be tuning it this weekend keep it comming love the ideas Matt

i might have to do that i guess but i just redid my exaust and i like the way it is ha one other thing it might be is i have my electric rad fan hooked up to a toggle when i turn it it drops a couple houndred rpms and runs a little ruffer could that be taking some spark away from the ignition and make more HC i think it may be because the driving test very clean running if i dont have the fan on it might over heat and i dont want to heat that baby up anymore than i have to ill be looking for a cat i have one but i think its a little small

my injectors are stock injector opening time 1.0 ms batt correction .10 ms/v simutanious and 2 injections per cycle its a stock engine with a bov and 3 inch exaust all the emmisions stuff are taken off except the pcv valve when i leaned it out it had a good effect on the CO on idle but the HC went up 200 ppm i added some more timing also from 24 to 26 NOX is not read during the idle test so should i maybe try to lean it out even more?

ok here it is on my driving test max allowable-------vehicle reading-------average passing hydrocarbons ppm----223.0----------------14.00-----------------63.00 carbon monoxide %-----1.58------------------.34--------------------.48 oxides of nitrogen ppm--2255---------------363.00----------------1025 idle test hydrocarbons ppm 408------------------1445---------------------94 carbon monoxide % 4.51-----------------.55--------------------1.14 this was with the timing at 26 and the afr at about 15.5 i just looked at my last one where i had it at 24 deg advanced and about 15 afr it did worse on CO 6.64 and a little better on HC 1238 the day of the latest one it was running allot hotter so that might play a factor the last driving one was ok as the timing and fuel was not changed since just the idle

ok my car with the mega squirt is running great ive been trying to tune it for emissions but i cant seam to get the idle right my "driving" test passes no prob very well acually but when the do the 30 sec idle test my hydrocarbons are like 3- 4 times past what is allowable i have 1420 and your allowed 400.... i have my idle timing at 26 adv and my wideband is at about 15- 15.5 afr i dont have a cat on my exaust and id rather not put one on if i can get around it by tuning the program i was just wondering if anyone knows anything about this like more or less timing or more or less afr is being on the lean side of things making my hydrocarbons shoot up and should i make it a little rich?

i have my timing at 40 about 3000rpm ive got my idle timing at 24 i think i just went threw my vacume to make my car more driveable and its running smooth as silk in vacume running good in boost also cant wait to turn it up its set at 8psi right now after i get my oil cooler on ill start putting more boost in and thinking about an intercooler but 12 psi should be ok without one..

ok ive been driving the car for about a week and now i want to get some more power out of it at 8psi ive changed my ve and spark table to max out at 170kpa about 10psi i still have to go for a drive at these settings but i filled in the gaps from my 250kpa settings... i reworked the spark settings . 2 deg drop for every psi of boost give or take. is less drop or more drop safer? do u want more timing in boost or less? i have it set at 40 at 3000rpm and under 100kpa and dropping 2 psi at 110 4 at 120 and so on is that safe to run?

im running the V3 board fuel and spark i just got the boost working today i had an injector seal missing so i put that badboy in and off i went it pulls pretty well i guess im still spoiled form my 929rr for speed but thats off the road and im getting used to this car thing i did a run up one of our local mountains and was following a bike around a nice big bend then he took off up the hill it pulls fairly well but it seams like it kind of hits a wall at 4000rpm either that or i am just to scared to push it past but it seams like it does hit a kind of power wall at 4k ill post a msq tomorrow when i get some more time with boost the one i have now is like an hour in vac what should my VE map be set for max kpa? im only making 8 psi not sure what that is in kpa i got the conversion somewhere should i set the map up for max 10 psi?

ok now i got everything working took her out for a datalog party drive haha first one was about 10 min in downtown vancouver where i live the msq was not very good and it was very rough so i changed it back to the first setting but then i went for a highway drive for about 30 or 40 min with some city mixed in on the way back home got megalog viewer to analyze and wow what a different car smooth smooth smooth i am very excited to keep tuning this megasquirt thing is turning into everything i dreamed it would be the only problem is i have a vac leak so when i start to build boost it just pops and snaps and i can smell raw fuel i know what the problem is and ill fix it tomorrow after work i cleaned my injectors and one of the seals that holds the injectors in was messed because the housing was missing a big peace either that or one of those little rubber grommets onthe end of the injectors is missing either way i know i got to take the injectors off tomorrow because i broke a injector cap when i was cleaning them and i have some more at my dads i should have some housing also for the injector that has a broken one. so i hope i can make some boost data log runs and get this thing really moving its not half bad now just in vac cant wait to really feel the boost bwahahaha

ok ok it took 2 hours BUT she runs you know what it was...... it could not have been any easier i knew i looked at it at least 3 times injector fuse haha im so sorry for all my mumbles and grumbles haha thanks for the support guys now when i see the same kinda post ill say "did u check your fuses?" well i gotta go pick my gf at thanks again guys Matt