TimZ

Just put the new block/head into the engine bay last night - will start sizing up plenum dimensions, etc this weekend...

OK - I'll buy that. You know, ARP does make main bearing cap studs...

I run a -4 (approx 1/4" id) line. -3 (3/16" id) is really the correct line to use, unless the line length is excessively long (probably not the case unless you run it around the engine twice or something ). You should use -3 teflon line and the appropriate hose ends for this - the temperature rating for the teflon line is higher. -6 (3/8" id) is generally considered too large - you want to limit the oil pressure going to the cartridge.

Looks like he figured out the "No reserve" thing...

Didn't need that mental picture... Same here' date=' I have met Rick. [/quote'] I haven't, but the mental picture of Curly touching himself was bad enough...

Didn't need that mental picture...

That's where I was going with my line of questioning, too. The custom adjustable a-arms would be a pretty exotic and expensive way to correct the problem if all that is wrong is a bent arm. Additionally, if the strut or mounting points are tweaked, then the adjustable control arm will only "sort of" fix the problem - most likely the geometry will still be screwed up, even if you can adjust the wheel end back to something that looks like stock at the static ride height.

Any idea on why the left rear is out of whack in the first place? Is the control arm bent? Are the mounting points for the control arm tweaked? Is the strut bent?

No, AlsoRan is correct - a hydraulic pump is required to maintain the brake pressure. During an ABS cycle, braking pressure is relieved by releasing fluid from the offending caliper's circuit and recycling it back to the low pressure side of the system. If there were no pump, then the pedal would drop to the floor in about a second or two. Most modern systems have the pump integrated into the hydraulic control block. You will probably not find an aftermarket ABS system for sale by any sane company -the liability is WAY too high. Think about it - if done incorrectly, this could easily cause complete brake system failure. Doing the ABS control part is relatively simple. The part that the ABS suppliers generally spend the bulk of their time on is making sure that the system cannot fail in an unsafe manner. Generally, some amount of fine tuning is required to adapt the system to a specific car's dynamic and hydraulic configuration. That said, if all you want is ABS (forget about traction control or yaw control systems, btw), you could probably retrofit an ABS system from a similar (weight, weight distribution, RWD, etc) modern vehicle, but it would take a great amount of expertise and access some engineering info about the unit. ABS systems are reasonably adaptable, and you probably could get one to work acceptably. The trick would be to reproduce the ENTIRE electrical and hydraulic environment from the donor car, as seen by the ABS unit. Due to the failsafe meaures I mentioned above, most ABS systems will shut themselves down if they find stuff missing that they need. This includes serial communications bus messages in many cases. Not fun. Oh - and the hydraulic system would need to be laid out in the same manner - most modern vehicles split their two hydraulic circuits diagonally (i.e, front right and rear left are on the same circuit), whereas our cars are front/rear split. This would necessitate replumbing the entire hydraulic system. And you would probably want to do a rear disk conversion. Much easier to find 4 wheel disk ABS systems. I also agree on the BrakeGuard junk. Stay Away. I guess it won't really hurt anything, but it doesn't really do anything, either. These are basically a pair of small high presssure accumulators (hydraulic equivalent of a capacitor) that you put on each circuit of your braking system. I had heard of some informal tests done by a major ABS supplier on these, just to see if there was anything to their claims. As I recall, the only noticeable effect was longer pedal travel during braking, since the BrakeGuard things added some compliant volume to the system. The braking distance was not reduced, and wheel lock was not prevented.

I don't see any issue with this. This is exactly what you want to do to achieve a decent idle mixture, especially when your injector pulsewidths start getting close to the minimum turn-on time at idle. The idle timing has no bearing whatsoever on WOT power when you have a 16x16 timing map.

For sheer power, being able to turn up the boost is much more effective than a 1 point increase in CR. You'll make that difference up in the first additional psi of boost.

If you want to specify the CR for your application, then this is not enough information. That piston may have been built for 7.6:1 for your application, but this is completely dependent on the dimensions of the comustion chamber that you are using. The number that is missing above is the volume (usually given in cc's) of the inverted dome on the piston. The "invdome depth" number almost gets you there but it still does not give you the actual volume since you don't know the geometry of the dome. You can specify the CR to the manufacturer, but you must then also supply the volume of the combustion chamber and the volume added by the head gasket (along with bore and stroke, of course).

I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned the 500+hp yellow Z. http://www.racetep.com/zpics.html As I recall, that car was sold to someone in Georgia, whereupon it dyoned at around 250rwhp. The car reportedly later made in excess of 300rwhp, after the 'trick' TEP block/head were scrapped and replaced with a junkyard motor. I guess maybe they use Shetland Ponies in Hollywood...

Do what you want - it's your buddy's dime, right? If you think that the difference between 15psi and 18psi is "very very safe" to "toast", then you are playing with fire. I'm not particularly interested in "I know of some guy who tried it and it didn't blow up" stories. I'm sorry, but that doesn't tell me sh!t, and I'm getting really tired of seeing this offered up as absolute proof. Until you can show me that the injectors have not gone static, and the mixture has not gone lean, I'm going to say you are asking for trouble, and the odds will be on my side.

Uh-huh. I was trying to find a polite way to convey this... Perhaps I wasn't too successful.

Lots of things have been said over and over. Good luck.

I welded mine, as well. This would take a competent welder about a minute to do - two or three thick beads behind the flange is about all that is needed.

Yes - that will save the family in the minivan that he slides into.

I'm guessing everybody was giving that car a wide berth. I'm also guessing that (assuming there were no serious injuries) they were also glad he/she was gone. Speaking of Rice, did anybody go look at that site? Check out the 'History' page. Hmmm... a bunch of kids, inspried to drive really fast through their neighborhoods and empty parking lots by an anime of cars similar to theirs. Then once they got kicked out of the neighborhoods and parking lots, and armed with fart pipes, air filters and strut bars, they decided to take it to a nearby mountain road and take corners at high speeds at night , where they met others with similar interests and decided to start a 'crew'. You can draw your own conclusions...