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heavy85

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Posts posted by heavy85

    steam vent tube on LS1

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by heavy85

    The factory put then there for a reason and with all the debate I hooked up the vents. Cut the upper radiator hose and unsert a splice to tee in the vent. Seems to be what most do. This is like the heater line looped or blocked debate and I havent found more than speculation to answer that one either.

    Seeking reviews of harbor freight port-a-band

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    I bought a used Grizzly bandsaw which I think is about equivalent to HF. Its SOOO nice to cut with a blade instead of fiber chop saw or cut-off wheels on a grinder. I use it all the time. Dont know why you would want a portable (im assuming the hand held kind) to build exhaust? The combo vertical / horizontal works great. Never realized how handy the horizontal feature would be until I got it. Every garage needs one of these.

     

    Cameron

    Off rotisserie, on 15x14s

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Way to go Jon. I know its been a long road for you so glad to see a major milestone complete. When is the target to move under its own power?

     

    Cameron

     

    PS - the front swaybar end links look to be at a somewhat severe side angle. That in and of itself should not be a problem but if that angle changes drastically through suspension travel the effective motion ratio of the swaybar changes as well causing varying rates and potentially unpredictable handling. Looks like you could just shim the upper connection to the swaybar out to fix.

     

    <-------- someone recently read Tune to Win :)

    Roll Center Height/Roll Resistance

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Ahh hell. 25" tire + zg flairs + functional headlights = max ~6 deg caster which is where I already was. Im finding to be able to add any more caster or even go much wider requires major surgery with these 25" tires :(. The tire gets into the fender even with it trimmed all the way to the flair and it even hits the headlight housing when steered. Taller bumpstops could help but Ive only got a little over 2" of bump travel the way it is.

     

    Now need a plan B ?

     

     

    Three row or two row radiator?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Does anyone know if Champion radiator caps come in different sizes? The seal on my cap is broken, so I want to get a replacement, but I can't find an OEM replacement. 

     

    I have seen caps on Ebay that say they fit Champion rads, but don't specify a size or PSI.

     

    I reused the stock cap from the stock radiator so there is nothing special there and you should be able to get a generic replacement cap one from local auto parts store. The Champion cools the LS1 a lot better than the stock radiator did but is still not good enough for extended track use in my experience.

     

    Im now shopping for an upgrade for next season to hopefully bring down coolant temps. Thinking about Ron Davis dual pass but dont know yet.

     

    Cameron

     

    PS: If anyone is looking for stock replacement or a Champion radiator near Central Il let me know as they are just taking up space and I would like to sell them.

    The Strut thread - Koni / Illumina / Tokico / Carrera / Bilstein / Ground Control

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by heavy85

    This revived thread reminds me .... Im running the single adjustable Koni 'race' struts with 425/375 springs. They are several years old now and seem to be seeping a little. Ive felt no problems with them but Im thinking maybe it time to replace or rebuild. Question is should I send them for rebuild or just replace? If rebuilt would they be better revalved? Im getting to the point of trying to eek out every tenth but have yet to play with struts.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

     

    PS - those larger diameter shaft struts seeem like a really good idea.

    Tech for side skirts?

    in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis

    Posted

    You talking V8 Supercars? I keep looking at them but in a recent Racecar Engineering magazine they showed details of the cars. The aero is spec (splitter, side skirts, wing) but one of the teams interviewed quoted a low downforce number and basically said the aero package was for high speed stability but didn't contribute much to overall performance. They also dont vent anything out hood hood like most of us do. This make me question copying them if they aren't that effective. NASCAR also uses the splitter and wide front end with really low sides but seem to be able to generate much more downforce doing so but again they have and open engine bay.

     

    Still can't find any solid tech more than general statements.

     

    Cameron

    Tech for side skirts?

    in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis

    Posted

    Side splitters like this?

     

    http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/ghtp_1201_aerodynamic_tweaking_racing_drag/photo_21.html

     

    Heres a combo that goes out down and out again plus starts inboard behind front wheel and angles out (similar to V8 supercars)

     

    http://files.conceptcarz.com/img/Chevrolet/chevy_corvette_c6R_DV_05_NYC_02.jpg

     

    Watching FIA GT1 race the other day the winning Ferarris looked old school just straigh down below the doors and didnt even go out to meet the huge flares.

     

    Seems there very little detailed tech out there at least that I can find.

     

     

     

    Tech for side skirts?

    in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis

    Posted

    My internet search fu is weak and I cant find good tech on functional side skirts. Looking to hopefully reduce drag and get more front aero. Looking at pics from professional teams they seem all over the map. Some blend out from the front wheel wells, some dont, some are vertical, some are horizontal, some are both, etc. Where's to good tech?

     

    After the dogleg rust repair is over the goal is to fab some skirts for next season.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    hood vents: ideas...

    in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis

    Posted

    I only have experience up to about 145. That was pre splitter but was still rock solid. I have same airdam as you 25" tires and front control arms 5 deg down with 3/4" 'bumpsteer spacers' (I dont use them for bumpsteer). This puts the splitter at about 4" off the ground and thats directly attached to the airdam not spaced down like yours. Your car looks really high and I think needs to be much lower. Even at 4" the splitter is noticeably effective so it doesnt have to be super low to work but may work better lower I dont know. My brake ducts are connected to those recesses in the airdam.

     

    Cameron

    Gutting 240Z hood

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    Its tedious but a couple hours later and Ive taken 7 lbs out leaving the hinge and latch. Hoping to be able to take at least another lb or two. Im now having a bit of hackers remourse as when I do eventually make a composite version mine hoodmwill be more flexible and not make as good of a mold from. Oh well Im going to keep at it. It all adds up and my 100 lb weight reduction goal will take a bunch of little stuff to have a remote chance.

     

    Cameron

    Redoing Brake setup Opinion on 240Z

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I would do some math on the balance you will get, pedal effort, etc with your set-up. There are some online calculators or search here for what others have done. You may get lucky just picking something but with your hybrid system its worth some time to estimate where you should be. To do that you need more than just 4 piston and single piston you need the poston diameters, your weight distribution, etc. I found 11.25 front / 11 rear couldnt produce enough rear bias but thats just with my caliper piston sizes, tires, weight distribution, etc so you may be better or worse with your set-up. A proportioning valve can only reduce the rear not add to it. So either pick a known good set-up or engineer a new one, either way will work depending on how you go about it. Brake bias is more an art than science for the average person (vertical CG height being impractical to measure so you have to guess) so steal shamelessly from those who've been successful would be my recommemdation. I actually went against the Tilton engineers recommendation as it didnt line up with my previous experience and am glad I did.

     

    Cameron

    Gutting 240Z hood

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    There isn't any structure throughout the majority of the hood as it's just a single layer of formed sheetmetal. However there is at least three layers in the structure that runs round the perimeter. Weight reduction is my goal and it's for a road race application. I was considering making a fiberglass hood as an offseason project but am limited on space for that size of project and am wondering if the effort will be worth it in the end. Instead I'm thinking of trimming back the hood structure and ditching the latch for pins. The hood weighs 38 lb currently. Anyone tried this and if so how much weight could be taken out of a stock hood?

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

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