heavy85
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Posts posted by heavy85
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How do you know you are getting a cup of oil into the intake? ......... I've just been driving the hell out my car for two years...that's why I don't understand this
As you can see in the pic, there is a drain valve on each can. You need to push harder
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So could you put that to an unused O2 bung on the exhaust?
Thats not legal in most road racing - not sure why but rules.
Here's my set-up. I am trying to keep a PCV system but minimize oil in the intake. Only partially successful but get about a cup out of them per track day. Interestingly drain the same from each can. The top port is actually a long diffuser tube that steps down and has small radial holes around it to help condense the vapor.
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Crank case venting is important for any "high hp" car. Sending an oily mixture back into your combustion chamber is in no way a good idea. The CCV setup on a NA LS motor is as simple as it gets. Using a vented catch can on an NA motor makes zero sense to me. You have a constant vacuum, use it to your advantage. Pick a decent brand non vented catch can and mark it off your list of mods to the car.
If you are pushing hard enough, even two catch cans (one in each line) is not enough to keep oil out of your intake. For 99% of the world probably would be great. Still not enough for me. Need to keep noodling on this some more as I would prefer not to open vent the crankcase.
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I bought the 45 originally and just never dealt with it since .... never made it high enough on the list. Would prefer the 35 instead since with the 45 it flickers at hot idle which is really bad for solenoids.
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Here what I've learned from HPDE / Time Trial / Hill climb / Autox an LS1 in my Z for the last 6 years. Its from an '02 Camaro and is stock except for small cam. I added an oil cooler and Accusump several years ago - never measured oil temp but was going off what others were reporting. This is with street, R-comp, and slicks. Accusimp is a 2qt (its hard enough to find enough room for it let alone a 3qt) with 45 psi switch to solenoid with a light wired in to know when it kicks in. Hot idle is right at the switch setting so its either on or flickers at low RPM when oil is hot. Run pan 1 qt overfull. On track it only comes on for a second in high transition or long left hander situation or if you let the RPM get low. As oil level goes down the light comes on more often. It consumes a lot of oil through the PCV. With stock PCV system one catch can helps, two is better, the LS5 valley Cover integrated PCV doesnt help at all. I'll drain about a cup of oil from the catch cans throughout a track day. If you are on a track where gear ratio keeps you way up in the revs and are on real sticky tires, then when you restart it will get a big white/blue oils smoke plume. Freaks you out at first but then realize it just burning off oil condensed in the intake manifold.
Have not tried baffled pan but read not too positive results so dont know first hand. Next time I have engine apart will likely add one for good measure.
PS - I gave up on LS1Tech years ago
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How do these compare to the 1437-RACE Koni's? Looks to be bigger diameter rod? My Koni's have loosened up where there is some side to side play and am wondering if there is a stronger / stiffer strut option.
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I used that and it fits perfect.
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When mine howled so loud you needed earplugs it was pinion bearings.
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Update. Ended up going back to the smaller swaybar before yesterday's race but left the lower rear roll center. Results were good but not faster. Car was a easier to drive, more consistent, and less sideways but ultimately best lap time didnt improve. Yesterday ran 6 laps within a tenth 119.0-119.1 where the previous race ran a 119.2, several 119.6, and one flier at 118.9.
Seems like Im at a wall. As I make changes I can change the feel and consistency but really am not going faster. For reference I went 118.1 two years ago on this track, 118.8ish last year and 118.9 this year. Need to figure out something to lower times again as prior to this every race I was making gains in both the car and myself.
As a side note, I also ran old, used, not well cared for 275/35-15 R6 vs the 255/4?R17 RS2-V2. Granted there are a lot of variable with both width and diameter changes but the old R6 was 1.7 sec faster but significantly less consistent.
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No need for the bushings as the bolted joint is holding the load.
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There are short and long Konis? These are 1437-RACE
This is what Im going to test. From 18 mm (link mount modified to be ~1" shorter than stock) to 1" bar at the firmest setting (I think Susp Tech bar?). Lowering rear roll center via eccentric pivot bushings from highest to lowest setting. Adding a bunch of wing. Forgot but I also noticed a particular corner exist in a ~80% throttle max lateral accel kink that you could notice wheel spin that suddenly caught up quickly at corner exit. Kink of like slipping clutch feeling that all of a sudden grabs but I know its not clutch so assume its the diff unloading.
Caster is about 6 deg, tried 7 but that was way too loose on slow corners. 25" tires and front control arms point down from center 2 deg and rear arms point down from center 9 deg whatever that ends up in roll center height. Havent got it back on the ground yet to recheck rear control arm angles with the new setting. Front toe 1/8 out rear toe 1/8 in. 51% front weight depending on fuel. 50% cross. Rear tire temps are 10-15 deg higher than front.
Ride height is a little tall for a particular hill climb that is rough on the exhaust.
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Clarkspeed - understand but that photo shows Im unloading the inside rear tire. Softer rear is only going to hurt that so think the main issue is I need to figure out how to keep the inside rear on the ground.
G-E yes I have those
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Have you got rollcenter adjusters up front?
Dont know what adjuster you are referring to but have some adjustability.
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If you are double adjustable try softer compression. Then try softer rear springs. 325 or even 300. Very small front ARB. Thats what it took to get mine to hook up. I run a Quaife and when you lift a tire you instantly loose 1 - 2 seconds. I still have to be careful over curbing.
Nice Aero.
Single adj set full soft in the rear. I too went from 'big' 1" front bar to modified (for more stiffness) stock bar but just finished reinstalling the bigger front bar to hopefully help keep the rear flat. Will test that next race. Why smaller front bar? I originally went there to attempt to help reduce inside front wheel lock-up but seems counter intuitive to help the rear hookup?
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http://mcscc.org/Gallery/album41/DSC0085?full=1
Not enough rear droop travel it appears. Going to test bigger front swaybar and moar rear downforce (front biased now). These are the Koni RACE struts with no rear swaybar, 425/375 springs, and on RS3's. Im getting around 1.4 lateral g's which explains the lean. Maybe need to test the clutch LSD again instead of the gear type. Tried 500/425 springs earlier this year but didnt like the feel. Other options for longer struts? Something else Im missing?
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I've raced on the old 'Group Buy' Rotas for 5 years with absolutely zero issues. Couldnt be happier with them.
PS - dont believe everything internet experts say
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Havent noticed anything in the years I've been running 3+ deg
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adding to the theme ... Im contemplating ones for the racecar. Not getting $$ OEM for a racecar so is there any of the aftermarket ones that are better than others? Some are plexy, other acrylic, and many dont even say. All the ones I find also say no tools required (?) which I dont understand. Any advice on which ones?
Thanks
Cameron
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For autox I assume bigger is better so B. Clearance to the tire, just make sure it clears at all steering and droop combinations.
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What Jon said. It sucks soo much oil into the intake that it gets coated with oil. When it cools and next time you fire it up the oil get sucked into the cylinders causing a huge plume of oil smoke out the exhaust for a couple seconds. Freaks you out the first time it happens. The second catch can fixed this but you drain maybe a cup (?) of oil out of them during a track day. The catch cans are in each PCV line from and to the throttle body to help condense the oil mist and minimize the amount getting to the intake.
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I like things simple so not sure I understand the need for the octopus complexity. Yes these engines consume oil via the PCV system but put dual catch cans in the stock system and it works. Keep the oil topped up and drain the catch cans as needed but its not that hard to make it work.
PS - I made the catch cans out of 2.5" exhaust tubing and plumbing fittings from the farm store. Cheap, simple, and addresses the symptom of the LS oil aeration.
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katman, who built a number of successful ITS Z cars, described the soup can ducting mod here probably 8 or 10 years ago. The problem is with solid rotors most Z's have the duct hitting just the inside of the rotor. This mod allows air to get to both sides. And yes, it does need a hose to the front. The existence of that part on your car doesn't men that it was owned by an idiot.
Has it been that long ago ....
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Um why would you want to duct extra air into the engine bay?
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My oppinion is over the last 10 years the fast race Z's have gotten much more hp and aero. Back then JohnC stated the high power V8 or otherwise Z couldnt keep up with ITS car. Im somewhere about 7 seconds faster than an ITS car on a 2 min track so if John was right we've made a lot of progress on the faster end of things. Tuning at least for me is centered heavily around getting power to the ground and aero balance.
<---- running modifiled stock front bar, no rear, and am testing 500/425 springs up from 425/375 last year. Yet to see which is faster.
Oil control and monitoring vitals on LS series engines
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
I have to wonder if crankshaft windage is a big contributor instead of head drains.