heavy85
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Posts posted by heavy85
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Added flaps in front of rear tire and left the front as pictured above. Couldnt find reasonably priced super aggressive vents for the top of the fenders so am just going with what I could find - standard louvers. From looking at professional racecar pics looks like starting about centerline of the tire and going back seems to be the norm. Before I start cutting the fender anyone have other tech on the subject?
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I was boiling fresh "Blue" fluid at WHP-East (Phoenix, was Firebird) this weekend.
I have 3" holes in my front dam.
Thinking about making headlight buckets into caliper feeding ducts.
You just have holes in airdam with no hoses to direct the air? If so those holes are doing nothing for brake cooling IMO.
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Let's see some pictures of your ducting (both the inlet and outlet sides).
I'm in the process of upgrading my font brakes (again). I've been running the Stage II brakes that Mike Gibson used to sell (11.5 x 0.81 rotor, Outlaw 2800 calipers), but now I want to change from running autocross to running track day events. So, I am upgrading to 11.5 x 1.25 directional vane rotors and adding cooling ducts.
I found with V8 car on track, track pads + your target rotors + Outlaw 4000 calipers + 2.5" single hoses from airdam to modified backing plate keeps everything happy. My experience says use the heavier duty rotors over the 'light weight' ones. I havent found a way the hoses dont rub the tire at higher steering angles. To the point I remove the hoses for autox so they dont get torn up too quickly.
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Cary - pretty much open aero rules. I already have well sealed up front end with ducted radiator. Large vents in hood and rear of front fenders open. I havent done anything to the rear yet. I just lowered the splitter and added three diffusers into it.
What are sharks teeth?
What do you mean by seal the wheel wells?
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I connect directly from the chassis hard line to calipers on my non stock brakes. Make sure there is enough length throughout the range of steering and suspension travel. I make my own lines out of Aeroquip fittings and teflon / stainless braid hose using resusable coupings so I can replace the hose every couple years.
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Thanks John thats good data point. Any idea how wide they were relative to the front tires? Have also though a lot about cutting holes in the tub to vent the engine bay but not sure there either. Devil is in the details making it tough to make it most effective.
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Not sure where else to put this and it's under fender aero related so lets see if this thread works. I just lowered the splitter in an attempt to make more downforce. Now am working on the vertical fences that cover the front tire. Here is what I have been using for several years and as you can see it's more of a blended flare shape rather than gurney strip type of device.
I'm thinking of moving to more of a true vertical 'trip strip' or gurney flap type of design thinking this might make more downforce by adding a stagnation point just above the splitter. The splitter lip is 4" wide all around which puts it roughly 1.25" wider per side than the tires (15x10). For drag reasons this seems excessive but am hesitant to give up the spitter width. Here is what I have so far:
Goal is to maximize downforce for hillclimb. Trying to decide how to finish off the new fences. Narrow them by maybe 3/4" including the side of the splitter? Leave the bottom and taper it so that it blends into the flare at the top? Leave it late model style like the picture? By the way, the top where it meets the flare is flat to the world although the pic looks angled. Thought or suggestions would be appreciated to help think through this.
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At least with big hp like a V8 you are not going to be going 'all out' for 20-30 minutes at a time. You will find things get too hot if you try all out qualy lap after lap. Tires go away, brakes, engine, slower traffic, etc so you tend to ease off a lap or two then make a flier when the track is clear, ease off when tire get slippery, etc.
Stock brakes pad faded with Hawk HP+ after about 2.5 laps. Full hard pedal but no torque - like ice mode but without ABS. Surprisingly not much better with two piece vented rotors and 4 piston calipers with rear disks. Hawk HT10 were much better. Im on Carbotechs now and honestly havent noticed much difference. Wilwood ultra light rotors were not to durable. Noticable feel difference and they cracked. Take the poundage and use the heavier ones. Ducting w/ 2.5" hose from airdam to stub tube welded to the backing plate works good except I havent found a routing that doesnt rub the tire. My rear 280zx rear rotors (240 sx calipers) are 5? years old and just now starting to heat check. Front rotors are 3 years old now with the heavier ones. Two years on pads is normal. All depends on a dozen variables. I cant imagine changing pads during a weekend if they were relatively fresh. I used to bleed after every track day but now only a couple times a year using ATE or Motul 600.
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I've seen a couple here and know several non Z's where they cut the front clip off just in front of the strut towers off like in 240zip's picture and replaced with tubing in the name of saving weight. Anyone know how much the clip in front of the strut towers weight to understand if there is much potential savings there?
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Test results at ~60 mph:
I was a bit shocked at +0.75 " water
I was equally shocked at -1" water
Net 1.75" water of lift
Looking back at pics I took at the Indy Grand Am race and came across this Porsche. Its used to vent air from some cooler ( oil?) but tells me maybe there is something to venting near the front of the hood to at least take advantage of low pressure on top to reduce lift?
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Having got my lent copy of Competition Car Aerodynamics back, finally, there is a mention of using a diffuser design in the front undertray, will have to study that more to see if its a practical design for the Z.
Like this? Its my splitter as if about an hour ago. V2.1
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For those interested here's a thread about the aero development of the red Z we're talking about.
http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9059.0.html
Cary
Checkout the front brake cooling scoops. Wonder how effective they are vs ducting from the front end?
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Got replacement 'B' spacer. On the problem side that's had shims that didn't work so well, I tried the spacer as received at 2.068". Same as previous experience, there was no discernable preload but you could also slightly rock the tire back and forth enought to feel it. So removed the spacer and turned it down to 2.061" and reinstalled. This worked great as there is still no discernable preload but also cant feel any movement.
PS: Even thought they were the more $$ SKF bearings and only a couple years old, one of the bearings .... in the problem side .... doesn't roll free. I'll be tearing it appart to see what happened. Luckily for reasons I can't remember I had one complete set of rear wheel bearings and seals. Gotta like those little victories.
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Pic of open Road Registered class winner at Phillip Island recently. Against a R35, GT2 and a couple of GT3's so his aero is worth noting, RB26DET helps of course.
I need max downforce force hill climbs (ave mid 60 mph with top speed just over 100) and wonder how effective thise vertical fences on the side of the spliiter. Pikes peak style so Im sure they do something just again have trouble finding tech on it.
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Cameron, thought you might like to see this; interesting testing using magnahelic guage and manometer to quantify the downforce. It's more about the underside, but note that there is NO tray in the middle, and he still gets pretty awesome results...
Interesting. Reads like a lot of assumptions go into converting pressure to downforce so its hard to believe those numbers but maybe? Hes definitely on the right track. Something I've thought a lot about but find basically zero tech on is how to best flow air from the rear wheels to the diffuser. Should you have full inner fender or poke a vent out the side behind the tire or ??
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Mine was essentially a spool when I got it because one of the helical gears was machined too long. I would take the washers out and put it back together without just to make sure its made right. Once you confirm that then go back and add the washers.
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Thanks David. Payment sent.
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How are you measuring the housing so precisely?
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The spacer dimensions are published in the FSM. As a last resort, you can cut a C spacer down to a B dimension or add a hardened shim to an A spacer.
True John I could use a C and cut it down. I've been dealing with shims the last couple years but they keep falling appart since they are soo thin. Want to fix it for once this time around.
Anyone?
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Yep. They have either an A, B, or C stamped on the outside. I need B.
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Please PM if you have a pair to sell.
Thanks
Cameron
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The spacers are clearly hardened. Unless you have the ones you are having made hardened I strongly dont think they will hold up. How are you planning on hardening them?
If the inner and outer races are in line then there is excessive play. You need to either space the inner race out or in to take up play in the bearings. I've played with this so know this from first hand experience not just theory. I would space the inner race to be closer together than the outer race to take out the play. Bearings have an effecive center that's not neccessarily through the middle of the race. You draw a line from where the ball touches the outer race through the center of the ball through where the ball touches the inner race to the center of the shaft. By having the inner race closer than the outer, the balls touch the outer race towards the inside and the outer race towards the outside. This effectively makes the bearing spacing wider which reduces the load on the bearing.
I still cant find any markings. Anyone have 'B' spacers that are in specs willing to sell?
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This might help. The spacer distance needs to match the housing.
Don't forget that engineers design bearing assemblies for hot running, not sitting still and cold.
Thread revival
That's helpful but I still cant find any marks on the casting. I've looked inside and out in the are marked in the FSM but I cant find anything. The spacers clearly have 'B's stamped on them but nothing I can find on the upright casting. The shim idea I mentioned above is not a long term solution as the shims keep squashing out. Anyone have more details on where to find the mark on the upright?
Both of my 'B' spacers measure way under the spec listed in the FSM which is probably to real root cause. Any ideas where to get replacements?
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You mean like this? I was wrong they actually touch with zero clearance. Im just saying they work.
Fatigue or just BAD FABRICATION WORK?
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Good news is you probably found the reason for it to pull ...