heavy85
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Posts posted by heavy85
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Don't forget the Hoosier 15x10 option. Hoosier's 275/35/15 is a very popular size for autox and would be a good choice for a hillclimb car.
True and what I currently run for Hillclimb only. Problem with 15 is other than these Hoosier 275 Race tires or 9.5" slicks there is nothing bigger than 225. Especially true for street tires. 17" opens up lots of 245/255 options in all kinds of tires. The reason at the time for my 17's was rotor clearance for street driving. I have since been using thise rims with street tires but for racing in classes that requires 140/200 treadwear tires. 15 Diamonds steel race rims barely clear the caliper but the al street rims dont. Also need to consider 15's are typically 23" diameter where the 17's are about 25" so gearing, ground clearance (I bottom a lot on hillclimb with the 15's), etc also come into play.
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Lots and lots of variables to make a conclusion on tire size especially for hillclimbs. It been my experience that hillclimb times are HIGHLY dependant on how hard the driver is willing to push. For example, my first hillclimb I beat a former Daytone 24 winner with him in his purpose built hillclimb special complete with big wings, low weight, turbo, huge slicks, etc and me in my LS1 Z on 245 STREET tires. Im not that great a driver either.
Then you need to pick a tire and venue. Hillclimb need tires that work now so if your tire needs a lot of heat then smaller can be better to get them up to temp faster.
If you want to put some ZG flares on, I've had much success with 245 17's. RS3's
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My current race Z while never finished is about there with not a lot to do without spending big $$. Looking for next project and came across this in a <$3k car search on Craiglist. Wasnt even looking for a Z just looked like a potential interesting new daily driver. If I would ever do it, speed events would be limited to the paved mile relatively low speed version not a full boat deal. Bucket list thing I want to do someday. I have a complete low mile stock brake setup from my 240, swaybars, old Tokico's (assuming ones from 240 fit), decent rims w/ nice tires, etc.
Was thinking if I could grab for a couple hundred and spend a couple grand could have a much better than family minivan driver. Maybe interesting enging swap?
Afraid the little crap may ruin budget like hatch seals, misc missing whatever, bolts and stuff.
Dunno looks like a lot of work .....
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http://decatur.craigslist.org/cto/4054326502.html
Dont know why but it caught my eye and has been for sale for a while so guessing could get for next to nothing. Its maybe 1.5 hrs drive away otherwise I would have taken a peek already.
Back seat could be handy for occassional kids haulage but seeing its been without a rear window for who knows how long may be too far gone? Can you even gets stuff for 2+2's or are they mostly the same? Not sure what would use it for. Maybe turn into daily driver or land speed racer or something?
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Sounds like you need a different sized spacer between the bearings. Ive fought this before and it's quite frustrating. Either shorter to bring the inner races together or longer one to move the inner races appart either way to take the play out. I ended up getting shims from McMaster-Carr and trial amd error shimmed it until it was tight. I've read procedure where you take a fish scale and pull on a wheel stud and tighten the nut until you get to a certain full force. I found that the nut torque doesnt impact rotation torque at all. You have to keep trying shims until you get the torque preload. The first time I shimmed it, the shim was so thin it basically fell appart. Luckily I found this before the bearing was damaged. I assume this happened because the nut wasnt tight enough? Now after every race I wiggle the tires to make sure the bearing are staying tight.
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Camaro studs and lug nuts here. You can press them in with a press or a vice and a deep socket or run them down with a nut.
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"and lowered the car significantly more"
Not sure what that means but you may want to undo that. IME those springs can still be relatively fast. Yes Jon is right once you are getting really serious you will want more but those should work for what you are doing. Rear toe in is good, very good. Swap springs. As light as those springs are I think you need the bars. I dont run a rear bar but use 425/375 springs. Get the camber where the tires are happy and I wouldn't use camber to adjust balance.
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Heavy, does your splitter extend all the way to behind the radiator?
It goes back to just in front of the swaybar
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Jon - how much weight you think could be saved by converting the shaft to race stuff? Seems like a meaning amount but never weighed a column before.
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I would mount it maybe an inch or so off the rad. Need some room for the air to move from the oil cooler fins/tubes over to the radiator fins/tubes since the dont line up. Cant comment on the vents but they cant hurt. My splitter hurt cooling a lot - if you are in a pinch remove splitter and see if that helps. Im curious why your shroud is a funnel - seems it would force lots of air into the radiator and without a way to get the air out the backside may be hurting cooling. I ended up with off the shelf Ron Davis dual pass that works great.
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The low pressure is the rest of the engine compartment. Did you block off all of the holes in the rad core support?
Yep all blocked off. You think there is actually tangible low pressure in the rest of the engine compartment?
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The cavity on the other side of the far panel is a stagnant area sealed off from everything. Im thinking you need to open that area up to a low pressure source otherwise how do you get any low pressure in there? Where is the low pressure coming from since its basically a sealed box?
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The near side in the pic seals off the (hopefully) high pressure area for the airbox. The far side could be cut out to make a single bigger area but then it's still basically just one bigger sealed off areas instead of two. That area is connected to the interior through the fresh air vents that run through the front frame horns. Should I open that vent to the interior? Should I take out the duct so this area is open to the engine bay? Cut the floor out so it's connected above the splitter? What's the nearest low pressure area to feed it?
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Hey Jon - this look any better
Now I'm not sure how to get low pressure into that cavity. It's sort of sealed off so not sure any downforce can be made without connecting it to a low pressure area?
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I may try that Jon - thanks for the idea. More I play with this, the Z is front aero limited and I think the big bottleneck is the blunt radiator opening. One related issue Im trying to wrestle with is the front edge of the hood dips down as the hood opens. This means you need either a lift off hood which is a PITA as big as it is or are forced to recess the block off plate back into the grill as I did which has to hurt both downforce and drag.
Anyone tested dive planes on the front of a Z to see what they do?
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I'll take some more pics. The upper left grill area is the air filter inlet. The rad is boxed in with the inlet just above the aid dam.Very nice Cameron. I poked around through some of your other pictures, wasn't really getting what is going on with the vent on the LH side of the grill area. Also didn't see how you have the rad ducted. Do you have more pics of those things?
Edit here they are
The taped off area above the bumper was a test opening to see if it helped cooling.
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Someone say hood vents? These are working well for me.
Also on the topic of fender vents. Just did this but haven't had a good test to understand effectiveness.
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Heading to a hillclimb on Friday. Going to be starting with some new 245/45R17 Rival street tires. Never ran them before so starting with the RS3 set-up. Long story why Im doing this but on day 2 plan is to swap to some used 275/35R15 R6's I just picked up used just for this event. Would of liked A6's but couldnt find some. I've also never ran R-comp Hoosiers before so any suggestions on pressures or quick set-up tweaks I need to be aware of? Diameters are 23" vs 25" so theres that but otherwise from what I can tell pressures should actually be about the same, low 30's hot.
Thanks
Cameron
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After every track weekend I would recommend checking all suspension, drivetrain and brake bolt/nut. Get into the habit and you won't get surprised!
Mike
This has prevented a lot of issues as you often find little issues and can fix before they become a problem. This has also resulted in zero DNFs in about 40 track days.
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What tires?
Things to consider - tracks around here are all clockwise so the front left takes a beating. Lots of camber there. Right side doesnt need as much. Lots of camber hurts braking and with a big bar leads to flat spots IME - its a trade-off to play with. Rear gains camber in bump so you dont need as much static camber. Watch tire wear and adjust accordingly or until lap times go the wrong way. IMO start high in camber and work your way down as tire wear can go bad fast with too little (ask me how I know ...).
Cameron
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Where would this happen?
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It should be possible to fit flares without having to re-paint the rear quarter shouldn't it? Just as long as you take your time at the welding and don't do it all at once and therefore overheat the metal and paint.
Yes be careful and you will be fine.
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I measured both sides as the rad and engine seem to almost always be different diameters. Bend a coat hanger or small tube to the shape you need as a template. Scour the parts store inventory until you find something close enough to work and buy the closest 2 or 3 hose. I've had luck with this but it can take some patience and maybe two trips to the store.
Cameron
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Yes cut high, as in almost straight out from the high point of the well. With 25" tires (likely with 17" rims) and full use of suspension such as racing and you will need all you can get. This is my experience with the group by Rotas and also had to recut higher to clear. With the old 23" race tires this was not an issue. All this is with ZG flares. They work but I had to pinch the ends together some and redrill new mounting holes so they wouldnt rub.
Cameron
My New Rear LCAs
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted · Edited by heavy85
Old thread but this design is the best one I've seen IMO and making a set is going to be one of my off season project. Several questions on material specs.
- Assume 1" x 0.095 tubing?
- The treaded tube where the rod ends attach - is that solid bar that was drilled and tapped or can you buy pretapped thickwall tube somewhere?
- I've never seen one before so where can you get that bolt on clevis?
- Seems 3/4 is overkill - has anyone successfully used 5/8 rod ends?
- I really like the inner pivot rod ends that bolt in to the factory mount idea - is that a threaded tube in the middle between the rod ends and the outer piece with the ears that bolt to the chassis just has a through hole?
- Going through the effort of making these, is there any geometry changes that would be usefull to build into them?
Thanks
Cameron