heavy85
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Posts posted by heavy85
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Mine are long gone but the heat shield under the cabs helps with a lot of things but not the smell. I ended up having to park outside with the hood open for a couple hours, once cool put plastic bags over the carbs, then push the car into the garage. Even then the smell wasn't too bad but it was still there. I never finished the bowl cooling deal so cant say how that works.
Cameron
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Can we say u-joint angle ... and is the floor a cooler of some kind?
Cameron
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So the huge gash in my leg hurts way more than yesterday... Bah!
Careful there Tim your wife may take away your power tools if you keep that up. So when is the battle at Gateway? Pick your day - open test & tune days are Tuesdays or Wednesdays. Better hurry before I cam the LS ....
The car is coming along well. I'm looking forward to seeing and hearing it. Looks like you are doing things right.
Cameron
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Depending on your tire choice steering is very heavy even at moderate speeds with relatively wide slicks. I sometimes have a hard time keeping up at the autox trying to manhandle those sticky tires.
Cameron
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I've got a set of front and rear strut bars I'll sell. I welded in bars instead of these bolt in bars. The brackets are powder coated 'Camaro Silver' (it's more gray than silver) and the rods are solid steel with rod ends. Make an offer and I'll see if it's worth getting rid of them.
Cameron
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We're required to run an untouched 10hp briggs
... and I'm sure nobody ever 'touches' them right? Not never twisting of the cam or anything like that ....
Cameron
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Is this conversion actually able to be reliable? Should I start saving for the high end AAA service?
Is this just a dream or can it actually work out?
I bought a wrecked '02 Camaro w/ 42k miles for my 240. Completely stock and I have never even split the engine from the T56. I drive my car occasionally to work but mostly to the track to race it. Between 80 and 200 miles one way to the track. Drag, road coarse, autox. Stock 240Z radiator, stock Camaro fuel system, stock 240Z 1/2 shafts and stub axles. Only broke once and that was a block from home when it chucked the driveshaft. I had the stock Camaro aluminum shaft shortened and they did a crappy job and it broke at their weld - the single part that I outsourced in the whole build. I've raced it probably a dozen or more times since the swap plus probably 5k street miles back and forth to the track. It's dead nuts reliable. Last Saturday was an open track day. Six 20 minute sessions with 230+ water temps for half of them. Monday was a high speed autox. Threw a belt during the first practice and ran half a lap with no water pump. Threw a belt on the front straight bouncing off the rev limiter in 4th (~115 MPH). I realized this when it puke antifreeze on my tires and spun four corners later. Gauge was pegged at 260 deg after running full tilt of about 3/4 of a mile with NO water pump. Replace belt, finished race, drove home 200 miles with no drama. These can take some abuse and get you home. I also run on full slicks so have high grip and high power and it takes it.
Now watch I get stuck 2 hours away this weekend at the next race .....
Cameron
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I already responded last year but (plug plug) I have a pile of Z drivetrain parts just waiting for new owners since the LS swap if anyone is in the market for engines, trannys, etc ...
End shameless plug - I still live in Illinois so back on topic.
Cameron
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Looks like an in-car tube bender. Start with a straight tube, add spring/shock, add paint, install, hit a big bump and presto you now have a bent tube.
Cameron
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Poser
Thanks
Cameron
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Yes, a V8 powerd 240Z can be made to turn but I have yet to see one on a track keep up with a SCCA ITS prepared 200 hp 240Z. That has nothing to do with the potential of a V8 240Z and everything to do with the desired goals of folks doing V8 swaps. It takes a lot of money and time to properly prepare, setup, and tune a dedicated track car and very few people want to build a single purpose car.
It's an old thread but ... had a big track weekend. Fastest ITS/ITA/SM were running 1:24's flying laps and I ran a 1:22.8 FROM A STANDING START (high speed AutoX) and in the 1:20's flying laps. So yes an LS Z can keep up. I'm also only an average driver so a good driver could easily take two seconds off my time and this is a street car I drove 200 miles to get there. These times were on F/A Hoosier slicks but also ran 1:22's flying laps on my RE01 Potenza's. This was at Blackhawk Farms which is an old 1.95 mile track in far northern Illinois.
Cameron
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I'm bring this thread back a year later
After reading through everything, I'm going to do a yarn test with the hood popped to the safety latch to see where air is flowing in/out. There will be indicators every few inches all the way up the fender where it meets the hood, and half way along the front of the cowl. I'll take video (magnetic camera mount on the fender or roof) of this and get it posted sometime within a week or so.
This should show if inspection lid vents are effective, as well as show how far up/down the hood any other vents need to be.
I have a inspection lid vented similar to buZy. Engine was running hot over the weekend at the track. Popped the hood and the temps did not change. Sting indicated that air was going into the engine bad from the back of the hood. Near the vented inspection lid air appeared to be going out but otherwise it's a high pressure area pushing more air into the engine bay. Again I saw no change in temps with the hood closed or popped.
Edit: When I turn on the electric radiator fan significant air comes out the vented inspection lid - like as in the strings go vertical so they do help vent air. Strings also indicate that air is coming out the vented lid at speed.
Cameron
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Got to see Cameron run on these today in Terre Haute - car looked very very good - put down power very well with the LS1 and Cameron seemed spot on with his patience - which was extremely important on this course.
Great looking car Cam - what did you end up getting down to? I went over and started changing tires after your second run so I didn't get a chance to see the other 3.
That's a really nice surface and super well run event - I highly recommend the Indy region and WILL be back next year. Drivers meeting at 10:00, 137 cars, 5 runs, and trophies still over by 5:00 - this is something the local club couldn't even dream of. I forgot about the timezone change so got there late and didn't have time to walk the course. First two runs I was just trying to figure out the course and was in the mid to low 40's. Ended up with a 40.7 once I figured out the course which if I remember right is just a couple tenths behind you in your frigging stock S2000 (sigh). For reference to others I believe FTDI was wicked big aero BM at ~36.5 raw time and I finished second in EM to a purpose build mid engine supercharged Corvair who got a ~40.1. I was happy with my street car
times and it was warm enough the tires worked really well. The EM Lotus clone in front of me was planning to swap from bias to radials midway through to get direct comparison but had an oil pouring out the valve cover after second run so never got to the radials. I was really looking forward to hearing the side-by-side comparison. Nice meeting you - maybe I'll have to make it down to St Louis sometime.Cameron
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That sounds more like a cantilever, not an FA tire. My experience with them was they require a different setup from the FA tires.
And for the edges wearing in the radials you need to control roll better or you will see that. That's one of the main reasons a bunch of us now run droop limited.
Cary
They are the FA tires. I was running 225 lb front springs with the radials which I think was part of my problem with the severe tire wear. I also would push mid corner for I think the same reason. Since I drive on the street to the races I was shy going higher in spring. This year I switched to 300 lb front springs and have noticed NO negative effects to ride on the street at all but haven't raced enough to tell how they perform. Plus I have a set of bias to use up before trying the radials again. Thought this info may be useful to others contemplating using these. For the performance/$ you can't beat them - especially used - which is why I run them.
Cameron
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That's interesting. I'm running the same 23x9.5x15 and found the 35 compound are really too hard. Unfortunately with the radials now the big ticket I couldn't get the 25's last time I got some used ones. The R35's will last a season + easy but really suck in the cold. I find they get better each run as they heat up. Never had to even think about cooling them off. I also tried the radials but the squared off edge wears VERY, VERY, VERY quickly IME so I'm back to bias ply. You also dont need nearly that much rear camber. I kept going down and down in pressure and ended up between 16 and 18 PSI when I got my only FTD back in the day when I was faster ... before the V8.
Cameron
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It's just a Z thing, IME that's the way they feel.
Cameron
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As Jon said most likely synchros IME. Not THAT hard to replace but is a PITA.
Cameron
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Driving impressions Cameron? Clearance Potenzas were 245 yes? 9.5 on all 4?
Dave
9" front, 9.5" rear. 245's all around. Wanted wider rears to match the rims but 245's is all they had on the clearance deal. Autocross today the tires were not as sticky as I had hoped. Not sure if they are aged from being a year or two old or are as sticky as street tires get. I've never had good street tires so I have nothing to compare. Overall I was somewhat disappointed with the grip levels but they show minimal wear after one autocross and several hundred street miles. Did I mention they are HUGE in diameter. Driving on the street they are fine. I can't hear them but my diff wines and the engine is a little uh loud.
Cameron
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Well here they are - the 17" Rota RB-R and the clearance Potenza's. Had to re-cut the rear fenders to clear since they are so big around.
Cameron
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Update. I remeasured on the rotor instead of the toe plate I made and found the drivers side was off. Maybe the toe plate was bent - but if so not sure why the passengers side was still measured OK? Anyway, I took about 1/8" of spacers out of the drivers side and it's much better. Still moves the steering wheel around a bit on big bumps but I'm wondering if the bumpsteer is still off a little and my measurements are in error or if it's something else. Hold the steering wheel and it stays put but if you let go of the wheel and hit a bump it will move.
Cameron
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$50 for daewoo tank
Wow - that's more than a whole Daewoo is worth IME
Cameron
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I used the stock late model Camaro plastic tank with internal pump, regulator, vent, etc. Very easy to make fit and probably the least expensive method.
Cameron
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You're missing weight transfer. You can have weight transfer with no roll, and it will still unload the inside tires.
Obviously there are fundamental physics here where unless the CG is on the ground there's a overturning moment trying to put your car on it's lid regardless of suspension goemetry, but in the context of minimizing transfer through moving around CG is what I'm pondering. Cary brings interesting testing that seems to say the opposite of what I was thinking.
Cameron
Those of you with LS1 240Z's
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Do it Do it Do it. Fast and scary fast are two good reasons for LS swap. It will be one of the most popular car at any race if you like attention. Is sounds good. It confuses people. It's fast. It uses stock parts so easy to work on. Decent mileage. It's fast.
In fact I can't think of a reason not too do it and would swap an LS again in a heartbeat. Only problem I had (actually have 'cause I never fixed it) was the fuel pump would only run for random amounts of time if controlled by the ECM. I hard wired the fuel pump around the ECM and it works fine. I used mostly stock Camaro parts and it worked out very well and stayed on budget.
Cameron