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heavy85

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Posts posted by heavy85

    Master disconnect switch question

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    It seems everyone puts the master disconnect in the + cable. I'm used to off-highway equipment that puts the disconnect in the ground cable. Unless I am missing something the negative side would be the best place to put the disconnect. For example (and this has happened to me) a common thing on Z's is for the battery + to short out on the frame. Having a disconnect in the batt + cable would do nothing to stop the short. Breaking the ground would stop the short. Having the disconnect in the ground requires a double failure to still have a problem if you tried to use it. Are there rules or something driving everyone to put them in the + cable? I checked the NASA rules but it did not specify.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Maxi-fuse fusible link upgrade

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    OK I rewired my car and am scratching my head where fusible links go? Everything is fused already? You can't fuse the starter wire. The alternator wire (at least on the '02 donor Z28) goes straight to the battery. This leaves the one wire that goes from the battery to the fuse block? The Camaro harness has some fusible links in them as well as the large 'Maxifuses'. I'm only using the Maxifuses but am concerned I need the fusible links somewhere. Searching just confused me more so can someone please explain exactly which wire we're trying to protect - I assume it's the one up to the fuse block? This went all the way to the ignition switch and back on the Z28 which is I assume why there was the fusible links added as there are a lot of potential shorts along the way. Mine is about a foot long so I dont see the point. Any insight would be helpful.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Need advice on wireless router ... and not the powertool

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Well this is sort of a 'tech' question but anyway seems to fit best here. I bought my wife a laptop for x-mas and am shopping for a wireless router. I am clueless. It's a Dell and has a N wireless card. We have cable modem which I have been told is only about up to G card speed. Went to Best Buy today and there were four basic options for the G card. What appears to be the brand name Linksys (or something close) which comes in the basic for $50 or the high speed for $70. There was a what appears to be the generic by Belkin which is only $35 then there was another brand I dont remember which is equivalent to the high speed Linksys for $45 but again looks very generic. Any recommendations? We also have a Circuit City but I have yet to look there. The laptop will be used for photo editing including uploading to host/photo labs and web surfing. Thanks ahead for any advice.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Strengthening Front Anti Sway Bar Mounts

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    My assumption is the bar twists about it's center. If you mount the bar off of centerline at both ends then how can it twist? This has nothing to do with stiction or range of motion of the bearings it's a pure mechanical thing. The real effect depends on what part of the bar is bending to begin with. I'm assuming the longer portion that connects the two sides in a 'normal' bar is doing most of the bending. Since you are holding the ends of this portion relative to each other you are forcing the twist to occur in the bend of the bar or the shorter legs that go to the endlinks. There is effectively less bar that can freely twist and therefore leading to my thoughts that the rate would go up.

     

    So the real question is when will this thing be on the road! If I get the PCM back I will start the LS1 up for the first time over Christmas.:)

     

    Cameron

    Can I just by-pass VATS and go?

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I'm not running the starting circuit through the PCM so I think the bypass module would work fine but I was also under the impression that module was all you needed for start/fuel/ect. What I'm worried about is some derate or ??? that the computer will enforce since the sensors are not plugged in. Depending on the answer to this question I may take you up on that module.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Can I just by-pass VATS and go?

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I'm VERY close to being able to start the LS1 up for the first time and am contemplating what to do with the PCM. If I just use a VATS by-pass box can I start it up and run without issue ... well other than the check engine light is always on? Will it run in some sort of derated protection or enrichment or something? I guess what I'm getting at is do I really have to have the PCM flashed to get rid of rear o2 sensors, air pump, etc if I'm willing to live with the check engine light? Eventually I will probably have it flashed out but am still trying to figure out the best way to go there and want to get it running over Christmas break.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    what all to take from my donor LS1 car?

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Gas pedal (I cut the end off and welded it to the end of the Datsun pedal to use the unmodified LS1 throttle cable), fuel tank and lines (I took the soft lines apart that connect to the tank and re-used the ends plus took the hard lines & tee near the fuel filter and cut, jointed, flared to re-use them), fuel tank mounting straps, gas tank filler neck (cut twice and extend and slides right into the Datsun fill neck), plastic brackets that hold the PCM and fuseblock, shifter boot, driveshaft (haven't had it shortened yet so I dont know how the aluminum shaft will work), OBD connector. That's all I can think of that I used.

     

    Cameron

    Front diff crossmember no longer necessary

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Weld the RT mount into the car and forget about a crossmember between the LCA mounts. Just make sure the LCA mounts can handle some strong lateral loads.

     

    I'm curious why you say linking the LCA mounts is not needed. Is it due to what Jon has done up top with the diagonals from the cage? The crossmember sure seems like a good way to distribute the LCA loads into the frame. Generally you want to connect the loads in straight lines where possible?

    Front diff crossmember no longer necessary

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I would want to tie the control arm mounts together directly some way for the most direct load path. It seems the tranny tunnel really weakens the center of the car and the factory crossmember does a decent job of tying the sides together. Maybe just cut out those tubes you added to the crossmember to take the weight out ... or just get another unmodded crossmember as they dont weigh that much. I didn't design the factory part but my oppinion is it serves three basic functions 1) hold the control arm on, 2) hold the front of the diff, 3) add strength to the frame to help handle loads from the control arms.

     

    Cameron

    Tilton master cylinder to slave line.

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Master is a -3, the hose (at least the one that was recommended on this board and was very expensive from Summit and is too short) is -4. I had to get a -3 to -4 and a 90 deg swivel elbow. Now need to get out my hose stretcher as the hose it ~1" too short... oh and I forgot the depth of the flare is huge so the std -3 to -4 adapter is too short. OK so I'm probably not the best example to listen to as I'm in about $150 so far and I have nothing that will work. Sorry just a little frustrated as I thought I could take the advice of a post here and save some time ...

     

    Cameron

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