heavy85
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Posts posted by heavy85
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Copper vs aluminum ain't that different.
I dont know what the problem is here but yes copper is a much better conductor than aluminum (almost twice) and you will get better performance out of copper for a similar size radiator. Copper is heavy and expensive which is why aluminum is used more for racing.
Cameron
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It funny ... well depressing actually ... how fast things degenerate. I should have written 'a big honkin V8' and a 'high strung turbo 2 liter' ... of course then it would have degenerated into 4 vs 8 cylinders ...
but in the end I really dont care 'cause the engine is now back in the car for the final time. I keep looking for what I forgot before I put everything back in but so far I haven't found it. I figure it'll be good for 12's in the 1/4 and should be good for FTD at the local autox unless I've really screwed up the balance or the BM shows up. With the L6 I was usually ~1/2 sec off FTD from a really fast guy in a Z06 (actually beat him once) but with the 125 or so extra ponies and a much stiffer chassis I figure I should be able to shave off the last 1/2 second.
PS: "all he has is big turbo, big FMIC, exhaust, turbo, stand alone engine management and stock internal except for the cam". That adds up to probably $5-10k depending on quality of parts??? If that is 'all' then 'all' I'm doing to the L6 is an LS1 upgrade for the same $$.
Cameron
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EVO: 286hp @ 3263 lb or 0.0876 hp/lb
GTO: 350-400hp @ 3725 lb or 0.0939-0.107 hp/lb
That's only a 7%-12% increase in hp/lb but the seat of the pant feel is absolutely night and day difference so my point was the observation of 'there's no replacement for displacement'. Sure anything can be built to beat anything and my point was not to degenerate into 'my completely not stock blah blah can beat the snot out of a stock blah blah.'.
It's the big grin factor ... and the Z's a good 1,000+ lb lighter so I can only imagine.
Anyway for now it's just got a K&N on the MAF and a dual 2.5" exhaust but otherwise it's stock. I figure I'll take a year to get used to it then probably go with a cam swap. Also starting with the 3.9 LSD from the L6 days so we'll see how that goes as well.
Cameron
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Last weekend I took the SVT Focus daily driver (yes it's a Ford and yes it's a POS but I'm not brand loyal or anything) to the last autocross of the season. Had to get at least one fix this year since the LS1/240Z swap is not complete. Anyway I was instructing a couple new guys and it really hit home what I'll have when it's driving next spring (yes 2008 and that's my final answer!). Anyway, one was a newer GTO and every time he hit the pedal my head hit the seat. Nice feeling. The other car was an EVO and when I said punch it he would but you could barely tell that anything was happening. I know the EVO doesn't quite have the power of the GTO but the 5.7 liters of head snapping torque vs the high strung turbo four banger was night and day. More so than the raw HP numbers would indicate. Makes me glad of the LS swap choice and now I'm even more anxious to get it done. I picked up the engine mounts, crossmember, etc from the powerdercoater today so hopefully this weekend the engine will be back in for the last time! Now it's mostly putting it back together and tying up some loose ends but the light at the end of the tunnel is starting to appear.
Cameron
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... so that's what the directions are for ... guess I forgot a step in there ...
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Zero Rust does not seize the lid to the can but I found out the hard way that once the can is open it will start to harden in the can and make a mess later when you try to stir it up. Zero Rust seems to be easily scratch able so I'm questioning the durability to rock chips and such on the floors & fenderwells but I guess we'll see.
Cameron
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There's a loooong thread on LS1Tech.com documenting the build. It's a complete corvette drivetrain in there.
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Where did I say they weren't? The difference between the ricers and the racers was the vents didn't go anywhere, and the others were actually connected and performed an actual venting function. I don't see where your conclusion was drawn from what I said.
Sorry I drew the conclusion. I was thinking of the car from the windtunnel testing where the vents were only (best I could tell anyway) connected to the engine bay and thought that is what you were referring to. I was trying to suggest that using the side vents for both the engine bay and the fender wells would make the most if them. Do you have any pics or details on how this has been done? By the way do you have a webpage or something with details of your Bonneville car as I think it would be interesting to see the details you've put into it.
Thanks
Cameron
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You knew the big dogs when they actually had vents that were connected to the engine bay!
Isn't there also high pressure air in the wheel well that you could use the vent to help get rid of? I fail to see why you would want to use the vents to only vent the engine bay and not double up and vent both the engine bay and the fender wells?
Cameron
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... but it's got eyelashes?
Cameron
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Mark - can you please give some insight to the slick looking hitch as I'm needing to do something similar if I ever want to put a passenger seat back in (try fitting four 15x10 w/ hoosiers ...). With the new LS power I'll want to be able to give 'rides'. Nice well balanced car you got there by the way.
Cameron
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Maybe that's why Jr blew up all those engines this year - employed a little too much DEI
PS - sorry but I had to
Cameron
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What do you think of it? They really speak highly of it and even say:
"**********Same Made In The USA Insulation as used by Nascar And Other Race Teams**********"
If it's that good then why dont they even list the brand?
Thanks
Cameron
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The vents on the fenders of Superbirds were there solely for tire clearance. My guess is the modern race/sports cars with vents on top of the fender is both for cooling brakes and getting rid of the high air pressure area that is the wheelwell.
We're getting off topic but the story I read stated that the vents were there for getting rid of high pressure air above the tires which is why they were quickly banned. Maybe the 'official' stated reason was tire clearance to try getting around the rules? Either way this is the first time I've seen them on a Z and am interested on their affect to the overall aero package. Along the same reasoning I wondered why the race Z in the wind tunnel had the engine bay ducted to the side vents as it seemed to me you could better use the vents to exhaust both the engine bay and fender wells.
By the way this is a killer car!
Cameron
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I had something similar on my first Z after I rebuilt the engine. Turned out the flywheel bolts were not tight and were backing out.
Cameron
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I've long wondered about the vents on top of the fenders as you see them on many competition sports cars ... and even back to the soon banned Nascar Superbirds of long ago ... maybe something for aero testing part duex.
Cameron
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Also consider what happens as you take parts off as the CG shifts. My entire front end is off but the rear is still together. The front literally weighs about 5 lb now. I actually am using an old block as the front stand since I took off the crossmember and have the front end wired down to it so it doesn't pop an unwanted wheely.
Cameron
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IMHO the back looks too narrow. I would be worried when I climbed in and out that it would tip over if you were not careful. Wobbly and 'what happens when I step 200 lb on the side of the bumper to reach that certain spot' are two vastly different scenarios.
Cameron
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oh yea and have you thought about an ls1 gas tank? it uses the stock fill spout.
It does? The Z fill neck is plastic / rubber / something soft and is way bigger than the 1" diameter LS1 tank hose connection. I'm using the LS1 tank and ended up using the Camaro fill neck but had to cut it twice, re orientate it, and add some extra length to make it work. Not that hard and will look factory when you open the fuel door but it's not a drop in.
Cameron
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I too have a nice 240 tank I'ld be willing to sell.
Cameron
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When I graduated nearly 10 years ago now the AE's were pissed that the ME's were getting their jobs. At that time ME was good since it's so broad in scope. I'm an ME but there was never really any question in my mind that's what interested me. If you want a design job CE is not the way to go ... at least we dont interview them. Also if you go corporate big company a PE is worthless as is a MS.
Cameron
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I was at the vintage races recently and I took a few pictures of things that you normally do not get to see... I felt this one would be good in this thread.
That looks like a semi-trailing arm set-up. May be hard or impossible to package into a Z rear suspension.
Cameron
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I've had both. The Opel is TINY and under that bench in the back is the gas tank. Mine was missing the bench so if you looked back the gas tank was staring at you. Something I didn't even realize until after I bought it was there is no hatch. The back does not open. The headlights are cool as they roll instead of flip up although the cable lever takes a good yank to get them to turn. Resale on Opel (at least a few years ago) was nill. You could find a restored only for a few grand.
Cameron
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Hey look a google of 'Datsun Roadster Synchro' and the first listing is the place ... do some research man - or at least take some advise since you are obviously asking ...
http://www.datsunroadster.com/SUB_SECTION_DIRECTORIES/trans_2000.htm
V8 heat confusion
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Sorry good Doctor but I've never really bought 'resident time' theory. It is a fact that copper transfers heat almost twice as good as aluminum does. So for the exact same shape, tube size, fins, etc you are going to get much better performance out of copper but it is relatively very expensive and very heavy. I dont get the whole large tube / slow flow thought process. Kind of like the orifice in the water pump - I think it's to prevent pump cavitation another side benefit other than allowing the water more time to go through the radiator, although it may be used to reduce water pump power draw. Think about it - if by having slower flow you have more time to cool off in the radiator it also means you have more time to heat-up in the engine which means you just have a higher temperature rise across your engine. If the gauge is at the outlet of the radiator you may think the engine is running cooler but if you look at the water coming back into the radiator it's not really. Anyway I'm digressing and theorizing so take it for what it's worth. Back on topic ... you actually want turbulent flow both on the water and air side to get the best heat transfer - slow flow does not get you this. Very efficient coolers often use turbulators on the water or oil side (oil cooler) to get the best heat transfer out of them. These are often like little offset fins inside the tubes to mix up the flow. Trying to slow the flow seems to be just a bandaide to a low cost, inefficient design or a way to get a 'one size fit's all' approach that is not too restrictive and is good enough for most applications.
Sorry for the long post here ...
Cameron