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heavy85

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Posts posted by heavy85

    Steel synchros in a 240Z 5 speed

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Dont remember where I got mine but it was a place that specializes in Datsun Roadsters. They seem to use the 'comp' tranny a lot and was the only place I could find replacement parts ... and be prepared as they are not cheap! I'm sure a google search could find them.

     

    Cameron

    hood vents: ideas...

    in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis

    Posted

    1. Nissan put a sealing lip on the rear edge of the hood opening ... How is the stock rear sealing lip of any benefit?

     

    I'm guessing it has nothing to do with engine cooling or aero but rather to help keep hot engine bay air from going into the fresh air vent in the cowl box ... otherwise you may get full time heat coming out the interior vent ...

     

    Cameron

    Using Camaro fuel tank ... evap emmissions?

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    The small line hanging from the evap canister is the one that would connect to the vacuum line. I just let it vent to atmosphere.

    Wheelman

     

    Got it - thanks. I have that line hooked up to what I thought was the return off the fuel rail but upon closer inspection it actually goes into a valve that goes into the throttle body. Now I wonder if I need to hook up the tank pressure sensor so that it actually purges when it needs to?

     

    By any chance does anyone know if the corvette filter regulator will work with the Camaro tank? I'm wondering if there is really a pressure regulator in there or is it just a filter that also has an internal tee to feed signal back to the regulator in the tank? My donor '02 Z28 has(d) a single in and out on the filter, out of the filter there is a tee that sends some back to the tank (I'm assuming they wanted filtered fuel to the regulator is why GM did this?) and the rest goes on to feed the engine. The Vette filter would help eliminate this external tee and clean things up but is it compatible with the unmodified stock f-body in-tank regulator? In other words can you just use the vette filter/regulator without modifying the tank/regulator/anything and get rid of the external tee?

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Using Camaro fuel tank ... evap emmissions?

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    If you can it would be better to connect a vacuum line to the canister to it can be purged.

    As for where it is, mine was mounted to the top front of the tank as it would be mounted in a Camaro so it ends up at the back in a Z.

     

    Wheelman

     

    But there is no vacuum line attached anywhere near the gas tank? There is the fuel supply and return but that's it? Where do the vacuum lines route from - I assume ends up at the throttle body but through where? There are a bunch of lines contained on the tank but they dont leave the tank towards the engine at all?

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Using Camaro fuel tank ... evap emmissions?

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    I've mounted up the Camaro tank and am starting the pluming but am wondering what to do with the evap emissions charcoal canister & associated stuff. If I understand it reads tank pressure and if it's above some level then it purges into the throttle body to burn off the vapors. I wasn't even planning to hook up the pressure sensor and I can't seem to find this cannister unless it's built into the top of the tank? So is anyone using the stock Camaro stuff or if not how do you handle the pressure / vacuum that forms in the tanks as the air heats and cools and therefore expands or contracts?

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    How to ship airbags?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I'm finally starting to part out the Z28 and am wondering if anyone knows what how to ship the airbags? On e-bay there is always a 'hazardous material' surcharge but do I just tell the UPS man that it's an airbag and he know what to do? I'm hoping someone before me has some experience.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Should this cooling system work?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    It's a little hard to tell but looks like you have a narrower than stock radiator which leaves a gap at least on the left side (cant see the right side) between the side of the radiator and the core support. This allows recirculation of hot air right around back into the inlet of the radiator. Might try to block it off with cardboard and ductape as an experiment to see if that helps then if so fab a more durable solution.

     

    Cameron

    Using Camaro fuse block with LS1 swap question

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Well I stripped down the '02 Camaro harness to bare essentials including the wiring to the fuse block to get ready to put into the 240. I was thinking the ground wires off the ignition and starter relays were to the ignition switch and starter switch .... but I now see that main power to the relays comes from the switches, signal from the ECM, and ground from ???? I cut these two relay ground wires out of the harness now am trying to figure out where they went. One is black and the other is dark green and again these appear to be the ignition and starter relay grounds. Anyone know where these went so I can put them back in the correct spot? I'm wondering if they went all the way back to the PCM's for grounding?

     

    There's plenty of info out there on the PCM pinouts but I can find very little on using the fuse block.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    RT Bracket & stock 6

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I've been watching this thread with a lot of interest as I'm getting ready to install the bracket soon myself. But I'm confused by the concern that the GM mount is going to be torn apart. The picture in my head is that the GM mount goes between the top of the nose of the diff and the R/T bracket. The stock diff mount is also installed to support the nose of the diff from beneath it.

     

    If this is correct, then the GM mount would only be under compression during acceleration, correct? How could this tear up the mount? What am I missing here?

     

    Signed, confused in Colorado

     

    I think most are running with ONLY the top mount and ditch the stock mount therefore the diff is hanging by the top mount ... which was designed by the factory to be used with weight on top of it not hanging underneath it ... which is why it is getting torn apart .... and since the Energy mount is interlocking does not get torn apart. Some have left the stock mount in place hence the 'sandwich' but the design intent is no sandwich.

     

    Cameron

    Fabbing surge tank, catch can, and coolant overflow.

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    For catch can and overflow it doesn't matter. Hell people have successfully used plastic Coke (substitute beverage of choice) bottles for overflow tanks. However I personally would be conservative with the surge tank due to the nature that it holds highly flammable liquid and last thing I would want to see is stress a crack (from welding or vibration or the way it's mounted or poor penetration or etc) ... but then again fire scares me. I'm am dumbfounded how people wear sleeveless shirt and jeans at the demo derby when at the two I've been to about every other run is temporarily stopped to put our random fires. Seems to really depend on your welding skills to me.

     

    Cameron

    Pics of custom TT cage

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    I have figured out a MUCH better way to weld this thin stuff... scope it out those beads.

     

    Looks like a bunch of spot welds. I find that blow through is much worse if you go too slow or weld a bunch in a row in a small area such that the whole thing is HOT and gooey. Spot welds would help as long as you can get penetration. I'm still struggling with welding stuff on the floor as it's so thin. I can't imagine 20 gauge.

     

    Cameron

    Lets talk about chassis to roll cage gussets..

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I understand tying the cage to the A-pillars as its convenient and actually strengthens the downtube (good for safety and stiffness) but I'm still confused as to the front roof attachment. Thinking about what load cases you are trying to cover. Look at the ROUGH sketch below which is suppose to be a front view of the windshield opening and let me see if I can explain my thoughts. The top solid line is the roof, the dashed line under it is the halo, the verticals are the A-pillar / front downtubes acting as one member since you connected them, and there are corner gussets at the top.

     

    EDIT: This didn't work out as it dropped the spaces in the middle but just picture all the right side vertical pieces lining up.

    __________

    l-----------l

    l/ l

    l l

    l ________ l

     

    My assumption is the load cases into the roof/halo in the view are 1) compression as in braking or 2) parallelograming as during cornering. You basically have two independent top members (roof and halo) which unless you 1) are into yielding (buckling case) tying them together would not provide much benefit and 2) the strength for parallelograming mostly comes from the corner gusseting and bending modulus of the structure which connecting the two I dont believe would provide much benefit either. So what input loads would benefit from attaching to the roof here? Maybe minor benefit but I'm not sure it would be measurable.

     

    I understand attaching to the hinge area in the rear because there is not a real convenient way to attach to the B-pillars and the hinge area is already reinforced.

     

    In the end it's not much steel but I try to think about what and there the input loads are and plan to react those loads with the bracing. Maybe there's more to the front roof than I realize ... maybe

     

    Cameron

    Lets talk about chassis to roll cage gussets..

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I can stick my finger near the interface between the roof and the hoop and feel a significant amount of side-to-side movement between the hoop and the roof. In fact I would not cram my finger in between them while the car is moving. It is liable to get pinched if I hit a large bump.

     

    Isn't that because the cage was not tied to the upper part of the shell? You already have A-pillars tied to the cage so this will not happen ... still trying to rationalize in my head how tying the halo to the roof helps stiffness IF you already did that with the A-pillars. Please help me understand the logic here as maybe I'm missing something?

     

    Cameron

    t56 clutch master cylinder question on 240z

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    I have a Tilton 1" master but am thinking about going to a larger size. Right now the clutch grabs right off the floor. I had the flywheel resurfaced when the trans was put on, and added a 1/16" shim behind the slave to compensate, but I don't like the result. Maybe a larger master will push just enough more fluid to move the pedal travel up a little. I think there are previous posts about what size master others are using...

     

    Am I backwards in thinking you have this backwards? If the cylinder was larger it would displace more fluid for the same travel. Therefore if you put an even bigger one on then it would grab just that much sooner. A smaller one would take more pedal travel before it moved enough fluid out of the slave cylinder to engage the clutch and improve your problem - no?

     

    Cameron

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