heavy85
-
Posts
1227 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by heavy85
-
-
I'm not sure why anyone would want to run full on road race tire like a Hoosier slick for Auto-X, they will never come up to temperature to make them even slightly sticky in an Auto-X.
In my experience unless ambient temps are relatively low (< roughly 70 deg F) I've not had a problem getting heat in them for autox. Yes when it's cool/cold out they really suck and you would be better off with a sticky DOT tires ... but then again I'm running an R35 compound all year and if money were no object switching to a softer compound in the cold would help there.
Cameron
-
Here's what mine looks like in race trim with 9.5" FA Hoosier slicks on 10x15 rims.
Edit - mine is not gutted like the one above as I still have the original dash ... just nothing else but a leather seat & door panels
. -
I was thinking of sticking a compressed air nozzle in the end and see of you could blow it out.
-
I know you dont want to weld but I would recommend sectioning the struts to gain suspension travel and limit using the bump stops (less predictable). Sticky tires are a must and will take seconds off street tires in one fell swoop. Offset bushings are also nice so you can dial in rear toe and settle down the rear end plus add a little camber to the front.
Biggest lap time improvement will be the tires and if it were me I'ld add flairs and 10" rims. Looks good (better even IMHO) and add gobs of rubber to the ground. I won FTD with little more than you're set-up and 10" rims w/ FA Hoosiers ... well and it's gutted but that's probably not more than 100 lb savings ... and my engine is no where close to yours.
Cameron
-
... and if I can find a place to put them
Seems to me like the only place is along side of the tranny in front of the tranny mount which I'm considering but worried about the heat radiating off from them. Haven't thought it through completely though.
Cameron
-
... thru 2 cats and then it combines to a 3" out the back. Yes I am running cats, I got sick of the exhaust smell.
I've thought about running cats for that very reason. What ones are you using?
Thanks
Cameron
-
My brother was hit and run in his two month old 1,000 mile GTI just before Christmas. Unfortunately he didn't get the license and his deductible is $1000. Last I heard a month or so ago and he was still waiting on the body shop.
Cameron
-
A car that gets 30 mpg today ... also weighs probably 800 to 1000 lbs more due to our crash safety requirements, and has a much more plush interior.
I've read that as well - in the last 10 years (dont remember the exact # of years but something like that) on average cars have not improved on fuel economy at all despite huge advancements in technology since the cars are so much heavier with gizmo's and crap.
Cameron
-
Last time we moved I had recently stripped a spare parts car for my '84 GTI driver/autoxer. Well technically they dont move parts but they did anyway ... I assume because they get paid by the pound but that's just speculation. Anyway to move the engine/transaxle (still attached to each other) they set it on a furniture dolly - the kind with four small casters and four 2x4's with a little carpet wrapped around the wood. Anyway when they unloaded they didn't feel like lifting it off so they said to just keep it. To make an long pointless story even longer it now holds up an L24 wasting valuable space in my garage (GTI is long gone). And yes it's plenty strong and moves around easily enough to be useful.
Cameron
-
I thought cherry headers were normal if under heavy load or elevated idle such a during break-in ... at least one's I've seen on the dyno do? I thought this is one reason header manufacturers say not to use ceramic coated headers during break-in as the coating hasn't fully cured and the high heat will damage the coating. At least that's what the JTR (Sanderson) headers say.
Cameron
-
People keep saying it's easier than it can be ... and mine is a Cali car. I did in not particular order:
Plan A:
Pull (home made similar to loaner tool)
Beat
Heat & beat
Air hammer
Bigger hammer
More heat
Plan B:
Take to shop with a press .... then heat 'til cherry & press .... nothing
Plan C:
Drill it out using progressively larger drill bits from both ends and finally got them out. Here is what's left of one ... and it's better than the other I just can find the other one.
It'll take years off your life and I know for a fact took years off my poor drill.
Cameron
-
I've only had to push out the side near the front on the passengers side. Very subtle and not much - oh yeah and grind off a stray tang on the T56 .... but then again I'm making my own mounts so can't say for the JCI mounts. And I definitely had to remove the stock mounts.
PS - I'm running the entire garage on one 15A circuit - including Miller 135 & compressor. I've never had a problem with the welder but the compressor will trip the breaker if it's cold and there are too many lights on or if I forget to turn off the little electric oil filled space heater. The chop saw will do the same but otherwise I've had no problems.
Cameron
-
Woohoo the passengers side JTR header will clear the k-member ... barely but close enough
Now to the engine mount. It took a lot of pondering to get to this. You quickly realize that the mounts have to be fairly far forward - especially on the passengers side once you get the headers on. I started with the SBC to LS adapter plates on the drivers side (e-bay) then built a tower from the cross-member up to the mount. I will go back and add a leg down to the k-member for more support. The passengers side is a whole different story but I'll post that later when I get it done. I could have just tied into the frame rails instead but for efficient load path reasons I wanted to keep the engine mounted to the cross-member.
Top view
Front view
Bottom view - this is where you can see where I will tie in from the main mount back into the k-member.
PS - for exhaust I decided to go with a cross-over in the middle and two round Magnaflow straight through mufflers that will exit just in front of the rear tires. Should look and sound bad-a$$ ... I just hope it's not so loud I want to wear ear plugs going down the highway.
Cameron
-
I have since opened it up to dual 2 1/2" but the car has gained 170 lbs so it's still probably slower.
That's a heavy exhaust!
-
Way back in high school in my first Z - three in the front, two in the back, and it scraped pretty good leaving the driveway.
Cameron
-
2) BUT. (and this is big BUTT), the stock Z car suspension has proven to be VERY capable at autocross and many road courses around the country and world. At the national level, the fast guys are applying small, yet detailed adjustments and quality parts to the stock set up and still keeping up with, and in some instances, beating cars that are designed with FAR superior suspensions under them. For example, take a close hard look at the national level competition in SOLO-II, SOLO-I and the various road racing classes where the early Z cars compete. Compare the lap times of these Z cars to those of known superior sports cars. You would be amazed at well the lowly Datsun Z cars suspension will allow its driver to turn in FAST lap times, even by today’s standards.
....
4) After spending the time and money on the OE suspension of the Z car for maximum effort cornering performance, you will end up with a car that is not real pleasant for those long cruises through the back roads. "
I would have to agree. You really need to set a goal for what you want to accomplish and go for it. Sounds like you really have your heart set on this so I say do it. My mildly modified 240 has taken FTD (fastest time of the day) at the Autox beating out about 60 cars including a particular C5 Z06 who ALWAYS (read ALWAYS) gets fastest indexed time (including when I beat him in raw times) but at the same time I would not exactly call it a boulevard cruiser. In fact it's not really something I would want to drive everyday but could if I had to ... then again I'm getting spoiled with A/C, cruise, radio, etc in my late model daily driver.
Cameron
-
cameron, now i know why you haven't been working on the q45 front diff mounts. u been a buzy boy! tons of progress, got the headers yet?
Must be a different Cameron as I'm still using the 300ZX LSD R200. No luck on the headers as they've (JTR) screwed up twice now. First they sent them to someone but it wasn't me and then they lost my order when they were suppose to send them the second time and now they were suppose to go out on Tuesday with four day shipment so we'll see if they get here on Monday. Friday will be three weeks from initial order.
Cameron
-
Even a straight bar will bend under enough load. It will not crush, like an aluminum can, even if the loads are perfectly aligned along the bar's axis. I cannot remember why this occurs
I believe it has to do with buckling vs yield and typically bucking is only a concern with very small t/r ratios (thickness/radius) such as in an aluminum can. By the way stiffness is inversely proportional to t/r so large radius and thin wall is the stiffest. This is where you have to consider buckling to determine the practical limit.
Cameron
-
Well I still dont have my JTR headers - apparently they shipped just not to me so it'll still be a few days. It'll be tight to get the exhaust through there but I'm still holding hope it'll work. Starter fits fine
Since I'm waiting on headers to start the engine mounts I moved on to the transmission mount. It's tied into the subframe as I'm of the opinion the tranny tunnel weakens the middle of the car so tying the sides together is a good thing. I obviously still have to cut the arches for the exhaust and figure out a way to attach to the vertical plane of the tunnel to get the full benefit of tying the sides together. Anyway here it is in process.
Cameron
PS - this is something new as for some reason spell check is now on as I type?
-
Yeah that's it.
Thanks
Cameron
-
I thought I remembered someone posted a list of which wires need to connect to where to make the LS1 harness work but cant seem to find it. Anyone know where that is? I know the wiring diagram is available on LS1Tech.com but this was simplified into you hook up the necessary few power, ground, tach and go but maybe my memory if failing?
Thanks
Cameron
-
From the other thread a couple days ago I still think that welding a tube from here to the strut towers provides a very solid and well supported structure - EVEN AT THE FIREWALL. It's centered in front of the vertical support on the inside of the cowl (the one Jon only has on the drivers side by I have on both sides) and tied into the top horizontal plate creating a very stiff joint.
Cameron
-
... For those who didnt read my last thread before it was removed ...
I remember seeing the start of that thread but why was it removed?
Cameron
-
.. but it can be a pain to reinstall... and it is not a triangle brace...
... and the ends need to have a bigger footprint to effectively provide the benefit of not using rod ends. The tiny ends on these would tend to pivot IMHO and would be a lot stronger if there was a single plate that connected the two and maybe even if the mounting plate went around to all three bolts.
Cameron
.
Post Your Interior Photos!
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Bet y'all are jealous. Check out the grinding dust on the dash (thanks SFC)... and the Benneton (sp?) Momo wheel .... oh yeah ............................................... at least it's a Momo ...
Line starts here for bidding on the wheel 'cause I know it must be in high demand. Just imagine how you can embarrass your passengers with this thing.
Cameron