heavy85
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Posts posted by heavy85
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Thats interesting RebekahsZ. I dont really understand the purpose on a car you right foot brake on but Pikes Peak requires it. LSR I get it but otherwise it has to be so far out of the way and even then it wouldn't be intuitive to put your foot back on the gas to go digging for hook to pull it up. By then I think I would have just switched off the ignition but rules so there it is.
CAD (that's cereal box aided design in this case) at boxing in the footwell to connect the rocker wth the subframe. Would fill that little open triangle area in but dobt know still dont really like it.
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Interesting. Will it accomodate LS1 oil pump? How does the windage tray between the two compare and will the C6 tray fit an older LS block?
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If you are going to build a road race car step 1 is to pick a class. The only classes Im aware of that allows cross manufacturer engine swaps are unlimited. In that case none of the commercially available packages is the right answer if you want to be competitive.
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Thanks Cary for all the input.
Now for the most complex Z gas pedal ever ... top modified and reinforced to connect to push/pull cable and the growth in the middle is the required toe strap. In the process found the plastic hingle was cracked at each of the three mounting holes so now on quest for new pedal hinge.
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The plastic piece that the gas pedal rotates about. It has three holes that mounts to the firewall and is held to the throttle pedal with a circlip. Just found mine to be cracked around each mounting hole. The bushing area the pedal rotates through must still be tight with low signs of wear. Shipped to 62521.
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Looking for ideas about connecting rocker to subframe. The two round tubes are existing, one goes up to the frame horn while the more visible one connects the rocker to the rail. The bottom square tube is just sitting there but dont like it. Ideas?
The distraction in the foreground with the square hole is the fender.
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Required push / pull throttle complete but still need to add toe strap after I figure out how to keep it out of the way for normal braking but still 'cover half' of my foot?
Added jack points under the front downtubes.
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If you are moderately handy, here is my modified stock arms. The inner pivots are offset bushings so can be rotated to adjust roll center. Gets the inherent bind out of the h-arm design and makes toe adjustment significantly easier. I can't understand why anyone would want to go through the cost and time of converting to heims and keep the h-arm design. Before this I simply used the offset inner bushings to set toe. Rear toe is very important IME.
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No, don't think you could use the headers as is. Even if you cut the tubes as far back as possible and put a collector on and then added a 90 to turn it away from the wheel, just wasn't going to happen. The collector would point out just behind the strut on my car with the engine moved back about 1.5" from the JCI position.
I meant cut back, add 90 elbows first, then add collector - would that work? Rotate the 90s so the collector pointed angled down and back. Dont know what you mean about tri-y when there are only 4 cyl to work with?
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Considering switching to side pipes myself to get long tube and ground clearance. It looks like the original circle track headers would of worked if you cut them back, added 90 elbows to point them down and back, then added the collector and a single pipe over to the mufflers. Did you try this or think it could work?
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Project Binky is the best thing on youtube - been following for a while but thanks for the reminder as they have a new episode. They are nuts but entertaining and skilled.
I noticed the BMW turned the cross member into a k-member and it looks almost exactly like mine
. Im amazed by the number of tubed behind the dash on the V8 supercar - that just seems like extra weight? Also looking at that and many other cages and there is no way you could weld 360 deg around each tube. How do people get away with this as I read rules they pretty much all say must weld all the way around the tubes. Is this only for the mandatory tubes and the optional tubes just weld as much as you can? Good to see the strut brace on the Mustang had such a big impact. Due to wanting long tube headers and having cronic ground clearance issues with under car exhaust I keep thinking about side exhaust similar to what Jon did. You have any pics of your side exhaust?
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Thanks Cary - a lot to absorb there. I thought long and hard about the Prodrive door bars before going with the X. One thing is relatively speaking they are longer than a Z and go around and tie into the b pillar. I therefore assumed some of this design was specific to the geometry and constraints of the mini which dont really apply to the Z. That plus it looked really challenging to fabricate and I just went with the standard X.
Im also still toying with connecting the front hoop pads with the SFC by boxing it in underneath the floor. I already have a beefy transmission mount that connects the two SFC so the car is connected across the tunnel just not (yet) all the way out to the rockers except for the front rocker to TC bucket tube.
On the mockup pics you made I wonder if instead of tubes you just box in the underside of the frame horn. I saw that on vintage racecar build pics someone posted and have thought about it ever since. The M4 video was quite interesting. I have to think the basic unibody structure is key to getting that stiffness with the extra bracing just the last bit. Some of those braces look like they couldnt take much load but Im sure they are well engineered. This is why I wonder how to strengthen and leverage the unibody instead of just dragging the dead weight shell around attached to tube frame. I see you cut out the inner wheel arch both in front of and behind the strut - if that functional or just weight reduction?
I also keep looking at the front cross bar and wonder if I should somehow attach it to the firewall and tunnel but fail to come up with good idea.
I would love to see/read a full build thread on your car
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Cary - if you have any ideas on the cage or otherwise I would be glad to hear them. On the other side of the footwell bar are two tubes, one the goes sideways to the TC bucket and one diagonal up to the frame horn so while not ideal for adding stuffness at least it ties into other bracing. You have a picture of the side tube you mention? My seat is mounted to 1" square tubes across the floor and it all the way down against them height wise to get the hoop 2" above my helmet so there isnt much room that would add height. I also have a full length 1x3x0.083 subframe (would do that different and lighter if I could do over buts it's there). Yes dimple sheer plates added from the main hoop to the roof.
It's complete except for paint!
I have some time until Spring when it gets warm enough but now what color to paint it?
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No. I bought one but never installed as was concerned with the extra pressure drop in normal operation with adding a check valve and cooler. I have the Datsun pressure gauge hooked up at the little cover plate above the oil filter adapter and see that gauge rise up close to the middle while prelubing before startup so wasnt too concerned not having one. Without the check valve you do lose some flow but since it has to go backwards across a gear pump was not too concerned given only lose oil pressure from the pump for a couple seconds and its 2 qts and will provide reasonable oil pressure for much more time than that. The only unknown in my mind is how much oil pressure do you need? With the solenoid set for 45 PSI with it only coming on for a brief period I doubt the engine sees too much less than that. I also short shift in long left high RPM turns to be conservative as well.Do you have a one way valve? You're supposed to according to Canton, see fig 2:
This crank scraper stuff has me very interested. Wonder if I can remove the pan in the car ...
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Because nothing says racecar like dimple plates ...
Footwell protection. Much debate here but in the end decided I wanted to keep the wheel out of my feet more than connecting to the strut towers. Plus I have other reinforcements to the tower.
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My setup goes has a remote oil filter so I'm plumbed in there.
Ditto and the pressure sensor that controls the solenoid is at the accumulator which is mounted under the dash on top of the tunnel. There is an adapter that goes where the original oil filter went then the reote filter base has an extra port on top where the accumulator feeds. This circuit also has the oil cooler in it.
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Been all paved for a couple years. Couldnt tear it up worse than the Dragon hillclimb though. That road is made of some rediculously hard rock that likes to come up.
We will see with elbow room but the door bars dish out. Feels good making racecar noises sitting in it in the garage. My seat is ALL the way back - like about touching the rear wheel well far back so steering wheel position is good. That is a collapsible Momo adapter but I just added a quick release. Its a super thin one and only added around and inch of length but again it feels good.
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I too look forward to seeing you finished product Jon.
Here is a pic before putting away for the winter
Some of the in process rollcage pics.
Just down to finishing the front top of the x door bars then some misc dimple plate gussets then paint.
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For those that dont know me I've been on here since before Jon Mortensen started his build (sorry Jon
). Im only on here occassionaly and dont post that often but thought I would share and seek input on the Pikes Peak conversion. '72 240Z that I've had since maybe 2006 (dont recall exact dates). Ran it autox for a couple years with the 6 and tripple Mikunis then converted to LS1 power in 2008. Running mostly doing HPDE / Time Trial / Hill climb ever since. Rebuit the LS with mild cam a couple years ago where it made 364 SAE corrected WHP. Also been adding aero and lots of other development over the years. I've always been fascinated with Pikes Peak then three years ago ran my first hill climb and was hooked.Reviewing the rules looks like I'll fit in the 'open' class which includes some whicked fast cars so has some higher level safety requirements. I have no dilusion of winning but just want to experience PIkes Peak then take it where it will. Here are the basics needing updated to meet safety / rule requirements:
- From just rollbar to full cage w/ 3/16 mounting plates (almost complete)
- Push/pull throttle cable (almost complete)
- Second extinguisher or fire system
- Misc safety wire on suspension
- Fuel cell (using '02 Camaro tank now)
- Narrower wing
More to come with pics.
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Mike - if I remember correctly many moons back you tried to make a dash out of just a cap with a light frame but scrapped the idea. One of the thing I've always liked since I got my first one way back in HS (third digit is an 8) is the cockpit feeling you get with the dash but the stock one is about 25 lb. The cap only/light frame idea seems to fix that so if my memory was correct you mind saying what caused you to ditch that idea before I try to recreate the wheel here?
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So Cameron, are you saying that your light comes on when the accusump kicks in, and that you only see it flicker on when your in a long left or on the brakes really hard? If that's the case, I'm thinking (hoping) I should be fine with a larger sump and manual valve.
Yes. It comes on maybe a second or less. Before startup I turn on the solenoid to prelube the engine. When I do it will hold oilf pressure on the gauge for 10s of seconds so I think it works well.
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I took a good look at the ideas from Ishihara and Johnson (http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Chevrolet_LS.html) and bought there teflon scraper. For a little more than the IR piece you can get there laser cut scraper that is a lot better design in my opinion. And if you're handy (who here isn't?) you can copy the windage tray. ......
So here's what I do know. If you log the oil pressure and you go around a left hand corner for more than 2.5 to 3 seconds and you're pulling over 1.25 Gs then you'll probably end up with zero oil pressure. You can overfill all you want and run an accumulator but it won't do a lot of good giving the oil is headed upstairs first. I also found that if you run down a long straight and jump on the brakes the pressure can drop a lot. ......
Thanks for the link to the scraper. Since I am handy
, do you have any details to the windage tray modifications? My experience is same with long left handers and a blip in the brake zone. I dont have data logger but have idiot light tied to the Accusump solenoid (triggers at 45 PSI) and see it blip in those same situations. RebekahsZ - idiot ligh to oil pressure is a cheap way of keeping tabs on this without a datalogger system.I dont understand why you say accumulator wont do a lot of good. The bearings dont care where the oil comes from - the pump or the accumulator. Yes the pump may still not be too happy when it gets uncovered but being a relatively low pressure gear pump shouldnt be too sensitive to cavitation issues. Being a former hydraulic test engineer then a hydraulic system design engineer, they are quite usefull devices to provide secondary energy source among other things.
Should have made it clearer. The largest radius used in a turn yields the lowest "G" for that turn. Speed can be kept at a maximum in the largest radius through a particular turn. Hope this clarifies it.
Still not sure what you are trying to say. Unless you are power limited, meaning you are WOT and can still make the turn, you are always trying to ride at max g fine line. Even then larger radius is longer and sometimes shortest distance beats less scrub depending on what's happenging before and after that particular turn.
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Oh and I still would love to know where all this vapor is coming from to fix the root cause instead of just treating the symptom with catch cans and such but thats not my focus so will probably never really know for sure.
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Jon - so by that logic your homemade cage is questionable quality
Just kidding. Yes I made them for several reasons. From prior research many years ago now the 'better' ones had steel wool stuffed in them. I was not comfortable with the potential of small steel pieces being sucked into my engine. Its all about condensing the oil mist so you need cooling and surface for it to stick to and seperare out lf the air. This is why I build a diffuser tube to force the vapor through relatively thick, small holes to help condense out the vapor. They obviously work but also obviously not 100% effective. Im sure there are improvements that could be made like being much taller and I may play with moding them in the future.
Now the question about vented or not, I'm not an engine expert but figured sucking out the combustion gases via the PCV system put was better than whatever oil mist got in the intake. Dont know if thats really true or not but the best decision I could make at the time with what info I could find. LS1Tech is not possible at least for
me to wade out any true tech from. Edit: the oil I drain from the cans is black any nasty looking while the oil on the dipstick still looks new for what its worth.
Alain - as said before, what you are saying is great for 99+% of everyone but then there are those of us outliers who still have issues.
. Im amazed by the number of tubed behind the dash on the V8 supercar - that just seems like extra weight? Also looking at that and many other cages and there is no way you could weld 360 deg around each tube. How do people get away with this as I read rules they pretty much all say must weld all the way around the tubes. Is this only for the mandatory tubes and the optional tubes just weld as much as you can? Good to see the strut brace on the Mustang had such a big impact. 
The Strut thread - Koni / Illumina / Tokico / Carrera / Bilstein / Ground Control
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis
Posted · Edited by heavy85
Same here - 2" is too much for the Koni's
See http://mcscc.org/Gal.../DSC0085?full=1
from this thread
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119304-may-have-figured-out-corner-exit-wheel-spin-issue-now-how-to-fix/?hl=cameron&do=findComment&comment=1118089
Not in that thread but I am still having corner exit wheel spin issues in one particular corner even with roll center changes.