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HybridZ

2126

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Posts posted by 2126

  1. Your not alone on this issue......I don't know how many times I've helped people out over the years on this forum with good information and I still have the "unknown quanity square" under my avatar! Makes no sence to me...but then again, it will not effect me in helping others out in the future. Maybe one of the administrators will allow me a green square????

     

    Tom

    • Like 4
  2. The position of the skeleton looks' date=' well, just wrong...

     

    Forgive me for being crude and childish, but it looks like necrophilia in the worst way. Pelvis should be lower IMO. Other than that, wow!

     

    Davy[/quote']

    My thoughts exactly!!! I have never figured out why one would want to ride one of these creations on the street.......one rear brake and lot-O-pointy objects ready to squewer you. And the handling capability of these style machines has got to barely register on the handling scale......right next to a motorhome. Although, it is certainly very creative and nicely done. Just keep it at the shows and off the highways....for everybodies sake! I guess if you had a wreck on this rig it would explain the meaning of....getting boned!!!

  3. Because every time we run one in a race car the LED falls out.

     

    Had one in a 1970 Mustang way back in the day and loved it. Quit using them when we had failures in race cars. Too many other good options...

     

    Didn't Mallory address that issue some time ago? If you have any pics of the failure I would be interested in seeing it katman. You are correct however...there are other options besides a UniLite!

  4. First of all you need to decide how far out you intend to go with your wheels.......1/8", 3/16", 1/4"....ect., etc. Also, with stock mounting studs you will be limited...as you will want to maintain sufficient thread interface between the studs and wheel lug nuts. A good starting point is to park your Z on level ground with the front wheels straight ahead, then get out your tape measure and start checking the distance between the inner fender lip and the outside of your tires/wheels. Other things to consider.....suspension movement in bump as well as clearance when turning the front wheels. If you want to move the wheels out beyond where you can still use the stock mounting studs, you will probably need to go to an wheel adaptor, that are somewhere in the neighbgorhood of a minimum of 1" thick or wider and have mounting studs installed between the holes for the stock wheel studs. Hope this info helps you move forward a bit? Good luck!

     

    Tom

  5. From my experience working with audio pros in the automotive arena - Subs are not directional speakers like tweeters so it isn't required to aim (direct) them at the required height and angle for optimum acoustics. As long as the box that contains the subs are well built - it should be great sounding!

     

    RacerX

    I have to agree with RacerX.....usually the crossover point for subwoofers is under 400Hz and at those low frequencies the signal is omni directional. Also, a good solid and well damped enclosure with sufficient volume is a plus for better bass sound quality.

  6. This is what I did when installing wheel spacers. I actually replaced my stock wheel studs with 1/2" x 3" Morroso wheel studs, which required enlarging the stud mounting holes in the hubs to fit the new studs. I turned my own spacers from 6061-T3 aluminum and bored the stud through holes on a milling machine with an indexing table, to insure concentricity. I purchased the chunk of 6061 round stock from a metal surplus store for $80.00....a bit cheaper than from a metal supplier at around $200.00 for the same size chunk and same grade alum. The spacers slid over the new studs perfectly and without any play.....all was perfectly in alignment. The difference between the original 12mm studs and the new 1/2" studs was insignificant and my wheels slid right on without resizing the wheel stud holes. My widest spacer (F) is approximately 28.5mm. I have experienced zero issues with this method.

  7. As John mentioned, the struts are a structural member and band-aids fixes are not such a good idea. If you want to sleeve the tube, put the sleeve on the outside of the tube. As I remember during the sectioning of my struts, I had to grind away a little bit of the weld bead that penetrated a tiny bit on the inside of the strut tube just so my Tokico inserts would fix in properly.

  8. Come on....be really bold and put that tat on your forehead so everyone can enjoy it!!! Seriously, at 17 years of age you my want to reconsider having a tat. Sure it's currently a popular trend and many have gone under the needle, only to regret their decision later in life. That just my opinion however!

  9. Sorry' date=' I didn't want to make it an argument, just simply trying to make sure we're all in agreement in some shape or form.

     

    An analogy that probly won't work for many people, is the guitar, one that I think about myself for my own analogies. Between electric, acoustic, nylon, and the thousands of amps there are near infinante sounds possible for guitarists, even 2 guitars with the same guage strings set to the same tunning can sound totally different.

     

    Anyways, that's just something I think about whenever I think about engine sounds.

     

    Anyhoo, lets continue the light hearted talk shall we? :D[/quote']

     

    I agree! I believe we both understand the variable in the equation. One good thing in debating with you is that you do think out-of-the-box....a good sign of a creative imagination! FYI, and this was years ago, I played, wrote, and sang in rock bands (70's)....a drummer I am! Like Ted once said...."Keeping the beat, down in the seat, with her hand".

  10. Gollum,

     

    I'm not interested in getting into a contest on this subject, just trying to provide some education based on many years in the world of professional audio. As I mention in my previous posts....I agree that there are many many variables that will alter the root frequency but the basic tone has to do with the size and volume of where the sound comes from and what it propigates through. Another major factor in the tone of an engine is the frequency of the events (RPM).

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