RedZ85

I am at about $13K (not including the car). I get so much flack that "I could have bought a nice car for what i spent"...My responce: "Mine will go faster and look cooler!" Anyways, I also hunted for a while and got deals on some stuff. Also, i bought many tools which i didnt add up...maybe $1500 worth. So theres about where im at. i Still need a drive shaft and exhaust. But thats an adventure for next paycheck!

Heres a little 1.5 min clip of my engine with open headers...love the sound! Got a good idle at about 800 rpm. http://www.magshooterz.com/images/Downloads/Videos/V8Z.wmv (Its about 5 MB) What do you guys think?

No respect. I'd fingerprint your mother just in case! heh, you never know. Get a camera system installed, they may be back. I hope that you dont give up on the project...I wanna see that come through! Its just a setback, s**t happens...but once you get that twin turbo monster on the road...life will be all better.

Chevy 355 '69 Edelbrock Performer Air-Gap Intake Manifold Holley Street Avenger 670 CFM four barrel carburetor Edelbrock Victor Series Water Pump Chevy bowtie angle heads 64cc 2.02 intake valve 1.60 Exhaust valve Port and Polished heads Motor bored .030 over, file cut rings Keith Black Pistons 10:1 LT1 crank & rods (steel) Balanced 1.6 Roller rockers for intake & exhaust Hydraulic Lifters & 256 comp cam (110 lobe separation Extreme Energy) Pete Jackson Gear Drive Sanderson Headers LS1 T56 tranny installed with the Wier bellhousing kit Clutch Components: SPEC Billet Aluminum 168-tooth flywheel (SPEC# SC86A) SPEC Stage 3 Clutch (SPEC# SC203)

Time: 1:12 pm Location: My drive Way Event: ...First time fire up baby cranked over in about 1.5 seconds. The wonderful sound of open headers put one hell of a smile on my face! There is some tuneing to be done, however...SHE RUNS! I was breakin in the cam, but the engine died after about 5 min...fried battery. Wouldnt go even with the 200 amp jump start battery charger i hooked up...So walmart to the rescue. So about 30 min and $60 later, she fired up again and i ran her for about another 15 min before another glitch whitch took about 4 min to fix...the fired up again to finish the job. LOL the more i start her, the better she runs. Anyways, i think my cam is good and i can start tuning the carb. Drive shaft should be ready by the weekend...then i can drive her! Moving again...under her own power!? UNBELIEVABLE!

So it all comes down to this. Tomorrow 10/16/05 will be a make or break day. I spent the whole day adding oil, coolant, checking wires, hoses, bolts, clamps, fuel delivery...all that i can think of. The first fire up of my '73 240Z V8 project is scheduled for tomorrow at high noon...and im really anxious to see what happenes. New and never used: Carb oil pump CAM water pump Any ideas of anything i should check/do before the initial fire up? The only thing that will require breakin is the cam/lifters. Everything else has 5K miles on it. Do these need any special attention? I plan on doing a quick pre-lube with a drill to get oil in the pump for quicker lubrication to the new cam. I installed the oil filter full of oil so it be good to go. I will update my site as soon as i get a chance. http://www.magshooterz.com/V8240Z.htm

I cannot for the life of me figure out what kind of oil pan I have on the engine that i installed into my V8-240Z. I guess there is some sort of special dipstick that im supposed to use for it, being that there is a spout for one...however, figuring out which one to get is proving to be more trouble than its worth...I have a high volume pump installed. Can i get by with a stock aftermarket pan? or should i go for a bigger one? Is it an issue for a mild daily driven V8 with a high volume pump? I dont wanna starve the engine of oil because of the pump. My main consern is not knowing how much oil to put in and putting in too much and blowing my seals or too little and messing up my cam break-in and damage my engine. Is I think that stock pans are 4 qts...where as aftermarket ones are up to 7 or 8. As stated before....this is a daily driven car with the occasional drag race. Thanks

Ok, i have a full 6 Qts of oil in the engine and it wont even read anything on the dipstick. Im gonna get 5 more Qts today. Should i keep adding oil until i get it to register on the dipstick? I also tried to pre-lube the engine with a long screwdriver and a drill but i couldnt get the oil to squrt out of the lifter rods. Not enough oil? PSI? Faster drill maybe?? HELP! I wanna drive my new V8Z! Thanks in advance!

I am a few days away from starting my SBC V8Z. I cannot however find a listing for oil capacities. I know that the coolant wond be a problem if theres too much in there, however too much oil is bad. Anyone know that the fluid capacities are? Pre-86 Chevy 350 engine. Thanks

I know that when you install a new cam, you need to high idle it at 2500 RPM for 25-30 min to heat treat it. My engine has about 5000 miles on it, so everything else is broken-in and seated. My questions: 1) Can i put in synthetic oil when breaking-in a cam alone? (I know you dont want synthetic when you are breaking-in an entire engine thats brand new) 2) Do i have to drain and replace my oil and oil filter after i break-in my cam? Just wanna make sure i do it right the first time. If i am forgetting or leaving anything out, please chime in! Thanks -Ryan

Im looking for a hi-torque starter for my 355. Its 10:1 compression. Its going in a daily driver car. I have seen 2 styles of starters. One style has a flat block that the gear pops out of: http://www.magshooterZ.com/images/Posts/BlockS.jpg and the other has a half dome nose that the gear is housed in: http://www.magshooterZ.com/images/Posts/HalfDS.jpg I have heard that the flat block style are prone to problems because the shaft that the gear is on is not supported at both ends. Is there any truth in this? Should i let that influence my decision in which one to buy? Also, should i be looking at a mini starter for clearence? Or are they for special non daily use applications? Thanks!

So, my worries about suction and placment of the fuel pump are in the past. I used a Holley Blue pump rated for 110 gph @14 PSI. After i installed everything, i stuck a hose over the fuel line in the engine compartment and guided it into a bucket and let the fuel pump roar...with a new fuel filter and 100% air filled lines, it only took about 2 seconds before i got fuel pouring into the bucket! SUCESS!

I covered everything you need to know... http://www.magshooterz.com/R200Info.htm

I got a Holley Blue series fuel pump rated for 110gph @ up to 14 psi. When i looked at the mounting instructions, it says to mount the pump so that the inlet and outlet holes are at the bottom of the tank. Fine, no problems. Heres the pump: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&autoview=sku&N=304421 When i looked at where the outlet is on the tank, its twards the top of the tank, meaning that there has to be a tube that runs down to the sump. Is this a problem? Arnt these pumps and the original pump a gravity feed pump? If i run out of gass for some reason, can these pumps suck fuel up the inside tube to represserize the line?

Thats some funny stuff. Thanks for the laugh. It's kinda funny...about a year and a half ago I told my dad that i wanded to get a 240Z and drop a Chevy 350 into her. He blinked twice, looked at me and said "I did that back in '78. I have pictures too, see take a look." WHAT!? Z cars must run in the blood or something. He got all excitied and was telling me the best things to do etc, etc. I thought that was a trip. Anyways, the rims are going when i do my 5 lug conversion, so dont worry. Im not too fond of them either. I think im going to paint the gold part black for the time being. I got a guy that will hook me up with body work, prep and painting for about $1000. Midnight blue with a blue pearl and black trim under a protective layer of clearcoat. ooooo BABY!

Its comming together nicely! My transmission cross member will be finished shortly. I WANT TO DRIVE HER NOW! http://www.magshooterz.com/EngineTranInstall.htm

ok, this i understand. However, doesnt this wire need to be hot when in the "ON" position AND in the "START" position? Otherwise if the red wire isnt hot while in the "START" mode...the box will be "off" and i will get no spark when cranking the engine. When the switch is in the "START" position, doesnt it cut power to just about everything else so the starter and ignition can opperate without any other extra loads?

ok, so it looks like no one here can answer my original post... So I have a different question. The wireing in the car that i have had been bastardized when it comes to the ignition system. I dont want to have anything to do with the old ignition system. Where can i tap the small gauge red wire on my MSD 6AL so that im taping at the source of wherei need to? I dont want to connect it to the original (+) terminal on the original coil. I will run new wire if need be (in fact...i would prefer to.) anyone have any ideas? I know someone out there has done this before.

ok...I have determined that my wireing harness is RETARDED! Is doesnt seem to follow ANY of the schematics in the books. I know that the small gauge red wire for the 6AL goes to the (+) side of the original coil with a (BLK/WHT) wire...however...I SEEM TO HAVE 2 WIRES THAT GO TO THE (+) COIL TERMINAL, BOTH OF WHICH ARE CONVIENTLY (BLK/WHT) and not electricly the same!! When i look under the pasanger side of the dash where the big 4-block wire connector is...there are 3 wires that are (BLK/WHT)! What gives here. All the schematics show only one wire going to the (+) side of the coil (240 and 260). Anyone else had this issue? Can i just tap off of one of the wires at the ignition switch? Is this red wire just a remote turn on lead?

I just wanted to make sure that there isnt a polarity associated with the VSS. There are 2 wires, one is supposed to go to ground and the other to the signal post on the speedometer...but witch one goes where? The pigtail that i got just has 2 gray wires with no marks on them to distinguish witch one is ground. Does it matter?

Does anyone out there have a T56 in there car thats bolted up to an older carburated block? What diid you do about the VSS (electric speedometer) hookup. I know i can convert it to a cable, but i already have an Autometer electric speedometer and want to stay electric. I have been trying to find information about the VSS system but have gotten nothing...Anyone done this before?

Just got my SPEC aluminum flywheel and stage 3 clutch installed with the WEIR bellhousing kit. Finished up my transmission wireing harness a little while ago too. Check it out! http://www.magshooterz.com/EngineAssemble.htm

waynekarnes, how much do you want for your smog sticker!! LOL. I need to get my one of those! problem solved. Heh.