RedZ85

Stuck this in the V8 section...thought I'd stick it here too. http://www.magshooterz.com/images/Downloads/Videos/Exhaust.wmv

The sound of winning... http://www.magshooterz.com/images/Downloads/Videos/Exhaust.wmv

The cardboard is just temperary...right? LOL

I have been having major issues with the Holley street avenger carb i got. I couldnt get the thing tuned correctly. Then after i got it all setup...it was out of tune after a few weeks. So i got an Edelbrock Thunder Seriese AVS carb...and out of the box the thing was amasing. Instant throttle responce, more power...fantastic. I am very pleased with it. Anyone else using this carb? any tricks to it?

Ok, i got all the required files. Everything is in the .zip file. Just download, unzip it and run the .exe file in the folder. Tell me what you think. Hopefully this will help creat a setup that will allow us to have accurate aftermarket gauges in our Z's with the stock tank. Download: http://www.magshooterz.com/images/Downloads/Sender%20Calc.zip

Ok, i got all the required files. Everything is in the .zip file. Just download, unzip it and run the .exe file in the folder. Tell me what you think. Hopefully this will help creat a setup that will allow us to have accurate aftermarket gauges in our Z's with the stock tank. Download: http://www.magshooterz.com/images/Downloads/Sender%20Calc.zip

I forgot that i need to include files for the EXE to run...i wil get them up asap

I forgot about the compiler that i use.

I have been working on a way to conver the 240Z Fuel sending unit to work with a NORMAL autometer 0-90 ohm gauge. After pulling my sender out, anylizing the POT used and taking careful measurments, I have managed to find that the senders resistance output is BOTH linear and exponential. Go figure. So Im writting software in C++ that i plan to program to a PIC micro controller that will interprtate the datsun resistance to a resistance understood by a 0-90 ohm gauge. This will allow the gauge to be accurate from empty to full and everywhere in between. I created a calculator that shows the relationship of resistance for a given fuel level and vise versa. Calculator download: http://www.magshooterz.com/images/Downloads/Datsun%20240Z%20Fuel%20Sender%20Calculator.exe Tell me what you guys think!

I have been working on a way to conver the 240Z Fuel sending unit to work with a NORMAL autometer 0-90 ohm gauge. After pulling my sender out, anylizing the POT used and taking careful measurments, I have managed to find that the senders resistance output is BOTH linear and exponential. Go figure. So Im writting software in C++ that i plan to program to a PIC micro controller that will interprtate the datsun resistance to a resistance understood by a 0-90 ohm gauge. This will allow the gauge to be accurate from empty to full and everywhere in between. I created a calculator that shows the relationship of resistance for a given fuel level and vise versa. Calculator download: http://www.magshooterz.com/images/Downloads/Datsun%20240Z%20Fuel%20Sender%20Calculator.exe Tell me what you guys think!

I have a mechanical gauge installed to verify the electric gauge results

Im using non synthetic 10w-30 to break in my cam...I was going to start using Mobal1 full synthetic 10w-30...but now im thinking of a thinner oil. Is the reason that i have really high pressure simply my oil?

I have to get the engine reved before the pressure drops...then sometimes, it raises back up again...this is looking more and more like a oil pump relieve valve issue... UPADATE! I pulled the oil pump. The relieve valve seems to be functioning properly. There is unrestricted movment during the entire travel path. There is a purple spring installed in the relieve valve. Is this a high pressure spring? If my pump is working correctly...why am i getting 75-100+ psi!!?

It does have the bypass port. Is there such thing as a high pressure by pass port?? I can open the valve relitivley easy with my finger. I put a new filter on before i removed this adapter, but that changed nothing. the oil pump that i have installed is brand new from summit with less that 50 miles on it...Is it still worth investigating the valve on that?? How would i test it? Im really not looking forward to droping my pan again...anything else that could cause this? This is what i have: Valve open with a bolt. I was thinking...My engine isnt all that ratical. Its 10:1 compression, Comp 256 Cam redlines at 6K and is mostly a daily driver. Would i be better off with a stock 4 qt oil pan and stock oil pump?? Thanks guys

Im going to check that out. The engine was built for high RPM drag racing before...Whats a non bypass adapter look like? Thanks for the ideas. Should 15-40 oil LOWER the pressure?? I would think that it would raise it. Thanks

I have been playing with my 355 Chevy for a while now and had an issue i have been trying to solve. My oil pressure seems to be way to high. It seems to be around 75 PSI on a cold start...but stays there. If i rev the engine, it grows to 100...maybe more but the gauge i got to test only goes to 100. The engine is warmed and it doesnt seem to solve the problem. I have a summit 7 Qt. oil pan: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=oil+pan&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp and a Summit high volume oil pump: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SES-3-60-08-035 Are high volume pumps suposed to generate higher pressures? If so, that high? I noticed that if i drive it for a while and drive fast with the rpm's up once or twice once warmed up...the pressure returnes to normal and remaines at around 40-50 psi. Any ideas? I dont want to really drive my Z anymore until i get this figured out. Thanks!

My main concern is the difference in fuel pressures. On a Carbed engine, you have a fuel pump putting out about 10-14 psi which goes to a regulator and comes out a constant 7 psi (or whatever) Then you have the EFI fuel pumps which are designed to output a much higher pressure and get regulated to around 50 psi. Now you take both worlds and mix them up. So a 50+ psi EFI fuel pump is getting restricted to a carb rated 7 psi. I dont believe that those pumps are designed to do that, even if you have a return line for constant flow. I believe that an 85 300zx has a fuel pressure of about 45 PSI, so the regulator is responsible for maintaining that pressure. That means that the fuel pump has to be producing more than that. If you have a fuel pump designed to work with a regulated fuel pressure of about 45 PSI and the restrict it down to 7 PSI...i think thats gonna cause problems. Has it always done the fluxuations? Or did it develop over time and is getting worse?

are you using a stock 300ZX in tank EFI fuel pump to a regulator holding it at 6 PSI to the carb? Or am i reading that incorrectly? If you are using a stock EFI fuel pump, that could be your problem. EFI fuel pumps are not compatible with carburators and installing a conventional regulator will quickely damage the pump because it must be used with a bypass regulator to allow a continuous flow of fuel to cool the pumps electric motor. You may have or are in the process of damaging your 300ZX pump.

These carbs are supposed to be wet flow calibrated at the factory and ready to run out of the box. I can see some tweeking here and there, however, to have an issue like this seems that something isnt working properly.

My 670 CFM street avenger has vacuum secondaries. When i open the throttle, the engine revs like it should, however, if i stap the pedel fast, it chockes up. Like too much gas. I had a buddy watch my secondaies when i stab the gas pedel and he said that they wernt even opening up. Im beginning to thing that i should have gotten mechanical secondaries. Any ideas on what i need to adjust? Is there a way to adjust the amount of fuel pumped through the main jets?

I have a SPEC stage 3 clutch and i want to make sure that im getting full engadgment. How do i test for this? I can get an idea based on where the disengagment occures, but i want something more definite. Anyone out there have a stage 3 SPEC clutch??

Another Hybrid V8 240Z is now officially on the road! I was sweating bullets when i first took off...thinking about all the bolts and torque specs...did i forget anything?? But Success! Once i get my exhaust installed, i will be able to really see what she can do. As of now, its so loud with open headers, i cant really get over 2500 rpm without getting my whole neighborhood pissed off. LOL.

ZX stubs are a different shape than the Z stubs. They use different bearings and would require machining of the strut housing to fit. Not a path that you want to take. The best and cheapest way to do it is get the stub axles from a 280Z (27 spline count, or for $700 you can get Ross' stubs in any hub pattern you want...but thats more $$) and get Ross' adapters. Then flip the race in the CV shaft to shorten it and bolt it in. I have this setup and its fantastic!

I dont know exactly what you have, but i did exactly what you want to do. I have a T56 to a 69 Chevy 355. When i purchased all my flywheel and clutch stuff, i was told from Bob Wier that his bellhousing kit was designed to work with stock muncie stuff, being that his kit is designed to go from old engone to new tranny. If you get aftermarket parts (or use the original stuff) you shouldnt have any problems as long as they are muncie spec.

LS1 T56 tranny installed with the Wier bellhousing kit...$690 SPEC Billet Aluminum 168-tooth flywheel (SPEC# SC86A)...$425 SPEC Stage 3 Clutch (SPEC# SC203)...$360 TOTAL: $1475 + shipping charges (which i dont remember)