RedZ85

http://www.magshooterz.com/R200Info.htm this is what it takes, and yes...it is worth it!

that is correct, however, your strut housing needs to be machined to use these. this probably isnt the easiest way to get a 5 lug setup.

the only 300ZXtt's were from 90+. Those cv's wont install properly as there too long..at lease i have never come across that install. Do you have an R200 or an R230? the 300ZXTT's had R230's, the 84-89 300ZXT had the R200's. The thing to do is get an R200 from an 84-89 300ZXT set of 84-89 300ZXT cv's and get the adapters from Ross. He will also send you a pdf that outlines the very sinple process of shortening the 300ZXT cv axle to make the perfect geometry with his adapters. also, get a set of 280Z stub axles with the 27 splines. They are stronger...or you can go with Ross' 280Z axles that he makes and get them drilled to whatever you want, there the strongest! This will allow a direct swap. No fabrication required. Im doing the installation that you are doing right now. I havent got my adapters in yet...should be here any day now. I will be ably to drive my car the day they come in. check out my site: http://www.magshooterz.com/R200Info.htm

sure, an R230 is genuine...good luck bolting that thing in w/o custom fabrication. So let me rephrase....An R200 with CLSD and 300ZX turbo CV's with 280Z axles (Modern Motorsport even) is the stoutest "bolt in" rear drive setup using genuine NISSAN parts. you have a car light enough that you will break traction before any hard parts. exactly what would it take besides drag slicks and shots of NOS from a blown high torque V8 to break that? How many people actually need to worry about this? I bet not many. for the 98.756% of the members here, or people in general who do any preformance conversion on a Z, the setup that i used on my car will be more than adiquite. granted there are a few members with exceptions...YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE!

installed an R200 from a 300ZX and a new CLSD unit. 300ZX turbo CV's and 280Z stubs. this is gotta be the stoutest setup you can get while still using genuine parts. anyone correct me if im wrong. http://www.magshooterz.com/R200Info.htm

even if it did, did you read the info about it? Its designed for offroading and rock crawling. Not really gonna be doing that in a Z. The breakaway torque is probably all wrong for street use. The unit is what...$450? why not give Precision Gear a call and order there Power Brute LSD unit designed for the 12mm bolt R200's for $150 more that is designed to do what you want and theres no question of fitment? http://www.precisiongear.com/powerbrute.htm Model #: LOM59-12

heh, piece of mind is a great thing! I believe that it is their own unit. It has greater breakaway torque specs and is about $150 less than the Nismo unit. I wouldnt be too surprized if it was just a modified Nismo unit though. Either way, its cheaper, tighter and rock solid...my reasons for going with it.

It is not the way to go if you want a solid rear end that will hold up and last long. The unit is like almost $300. Why not just bite the bullit and get a Precision Gear Power Brute CLSD for an R200 for $600 and have exactly what you want. Thats what im using and im sure its the way to go if you want a new, tight CLSD. All info is on my site: http://www.magshooterz.com/R200Info.htm

for the pigtails that you got for your T-56. I have an LS1 T-56 for my 240 V-8 swap and im going to need them. Thanks. http://www.magshooterz.com/V8240Z.htm

lol. so i used your pic. Mine looks exactly the same inside. Is that a stock LSD unit?

Thats where mine broke. The threaded section with the bolt on it was broken off when i removed the flange.

I finally got my web site back up...lost alot of data...Homepage, favorites...but i salvages all my swap info! http://67.123.13.250/R200Info.htm I know i need to get a domain name...but im cheap for now.

If i knew how to post pics, i would show you. Basicly, its just a bar of 1 inch square stock with 1.25 inch spacers bolted to the hangers 1/4 if an inch above the old rear tranverse link using four 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts. Im using urathane bushings and have about .5 to .75 inch of flex room.

All i gotta say is..."It figures!" So i need to get new stub axles for my 73 240Z. I know that 280Z stub axles are the strongest. My question: If i get 280ZX or 280ZXT stub axles and 280Z companion flanges, will they spline together (Both 27 spline?), will they fit in the rear wheel bearings and are they stronger than the 280Z stub axles? I have an R200 CLSD installed with Z31 CV half shafts. In the very near future, i will be installing my Chevy 355 w/ 10:1 compression and an LS1 T56 6 speed. The car will be used as a daily driver mostly...with the occasional track run, etc. Im not really worried about things breaking because im not going to be road racing, and putting the car through extreem conditions for an extensive period of time but i would like to know which car had the strongest axles that will work in my 240Z. As for the axles, which are the best choises? Thanks -Ryan

looking for an R-200 input flange with a 2.25" pilot from a 280Z. Can anyone help me out? Thanks! -Ryan

I have heard of this being done before. I have the engine pulled from a 1973 240Z and have a Chevy 350 waiting for its new home. I currently have full access to the steering rack. Is it possible to convert to a power steering rack? Has anyone heard the same or had any experience with this? Thanks

Im doing a V8 240 conversion. I have a 400+ hp Chevy and i know im gonna have traction issues. I have a LSD R-200 that i will be using...its 3.9:1. Im thinking of 17' rims, but i know that there are many other people here who know best, so im wondering How wide of a tire can i go and how wide a tire do i really need to go? Thanks!