Mikelly

The list gets longer and longer... LS3-403 stroker long block L92 heads/Callies CompStar Rods/Pistons/SRP Pistons - $5900 shipped New valley cover/bolts/gasket from GM - $158 shipped New waterpump, bolts, gaskets, and tstat - $128 shipped New timing chain cover, all gaskets and seal, cam sensor, and bolts - $165 shipped New MSD coils and brackets -$680 New XIM interface and wiring for FAST XFi - $610 New 48# injectors - $440 Set of powder coated valve covers and hardware -$120 Bought an LS2 starter from Summit - $92 Bought an LS3 Intake off Ebay - $200 new in the box Bought all sensors from Rock Auto, including a set of NGK plugs - $167 for all Nutter Racing Drysump Pump, Madrel, blancer, belt and hardware - $1680 Butler-Built Drysump tank - $225 Dirty Dingo Mount Kit - $160 MSD Plug wires - $65 Fuel Pressure Regulator and fittings - $90 Reman Alternator - $120 FAST XFi Harness - $325 Passenger side High mount alternator bracket - $200 Fuel Rail Kit - Ebay - $120 Water Steam Line Kit - $90 Modified the ARE OilPan - $350 Drysump fittings and plumbing - $600

Any of you guys who have yours up and running now, who have done some track time (preferably a track day on a road course) want to comment on any issues you may have had with the chassis? Cutting out the TC box section... Did you do anything to add material back to stiffen it up? Would appreciate feedback on that and any heat related issues on the floorboards... Mike

Bought them from a guy on Ebay...

More progress...

Made a little progress with test fitting the drivetrain today... I'll get some clearances made and then give it another shot by the weekend.

It looks like my oil pan is going to have to be altered in order to make the header clear the lines. There simply isnt a -12 line fitting combo that is 1 inch or less. Gonna have to get some welding done to the pan... Spoke with the folks at XRP, Fragola and BMRS. Mike

loooots of similar experiences it sounds like among guys... Just shows we didnt live sedentary lives. I would much rather die doing what I love than die of heart disease... In Raleigh NC this weekend to visit the Museum of Art and Porsches display "Seduction of Speed"...Did manage to get the crank sensor installed before I left and my starter installed. I also got the XIM and injection harness in. Still awaiting fuel rails, injectors and coil packs. Mike

My Chiropractor is on my xmas card list... Guy is a lifesaver...

If it is rear drive and if they keep cost and weight down, I really don't care what it is powered by. Quite honestly everyone who has had a N/A S30 with no mods complained about how little power they had. Heritage be damned... Give me something that MAKES MORE POWER!!! I hope it is has more gutts than that damned Subayota disappointment. Mike

How close to these fit on the passenger side to the oilpan? The ones I got from Keith after the group buy are VERY close to the dry sump line fittings (only 1.5 inches from the pan to the header collector.) and I am not sure I will be able to use them. Mike

Still awaiting some hardware bits to come in. I'm going to focus on getting the 383 stroker ready to ship out today. I've got to admit, I'm really sore from that crash last weekend, still. Back has been seriously jacked all week and my mobility is limited. Chiropractor has been out of town for the holiday week and unavailable. Ugh...

Matt, I was shocked when mine came in at 2709 without me in it, but my cage is fairly substantial, like yours, and I also have Pete's framerails in the car as well. When I hear guys talk of weights in the 2100-2200 range I just shake my head and wonder "how". That weight was before I swapped to CCWs and revamped a few other things. I'm hoping that swapping from the Bowtie Block to the LS platform will have lowered it by 100+ pounds. I'm also hoping that the other mods I made previously removed an additional 75#, based on my own weighing of individual components. Your plan sounds solid and I'll be very interested in seeing what you come up with. I'm wonder if going with a modified tie rod would also help longevity on the steering links.

Motor mount pieces look similar to the kit I'm using that I will be welding in. For a true bolt in option, their kit is very nice for anyone who doesn't have the ability to fabricate beyond drilling a few holes or grinding off some clearance metal.

Keep it coming gang... GOOD INFO in this thread!!! Mike

Just back from Charlotte Motorspeedway where we raced in the ChumpCar 10 hour race in the Tracks Unlimited 300ZX. We started 46th and finished up in 16th. I had a huge impact very early in the race after having help from another driver going in to the bus stop. We had other mistakes made in the pits, and brake issues on the car late made for interesting racing. Our team did well overall. Car caught fire with me in it, then again with two others in it. Fluid and brake fires can be interesting. Before the race started... After the finish... On the LS3 front, the motor is coming together. I have the intake in and the drysump parts are on the way. I hope we will be able to get the other bits in this week.

I'm going off the shop that is supporting a number of NASA/SCCA racers, gang. If I find them not to be up to the task, I'll bitch to MSD and the Shop both about them. Mike

Cary it's the ARE 1005S... Has three scavange fittings on the right side. This is essentially the pan: http://www.drysump.com/corvpan2.htm I will be blocking off the front port and not using it since I'll be using the pressure stage at the fitting on the driver's rear. Mike

Cary This is all great info... I have a "new" challenge... With my headers on, the oil pan fittings have exactly 1 3/4 inch of clearance on the passenger side... I'm going to require some very tight fitting plumbing. Everything on the scavange side is -12 which is BIG... I'm looking for suggestions guys!! Mike

After much research and discussion with a number of vendors I went with www.nutterracingengines.com for the pump and gear drive. Still researching the oil tank!!!

latest update on the motor...

Pratt and Miller built those cars and they were tube chassis racecars. I actually know somebody that owns one of the former C5Rs and the systems were identical to the C6R. Whole point of this thread is to find what others have done and what hurdles they had, what ways they were able to find solutions for less, or what creative ways they mounted tanks and utilized hardware! Mike

Recommendation from NASA racers.

The dry sump systems sold by GM and installed on every z06 from the c6 platform forward and the grand sports starting in 2010 are not true drysump systems and according to a GM engineer this past year at the NCM event at VIR they fail at 1.3 gs. My car pulls well over that in corners. Mike

Gang, I'm gonna dry sump my motor and I'd like to start a thread concerning what worked for folks and in WHAT SPECIFIC TYPE of USE. That last part is critical. My car with the 383 stroker was pulling nearly 1.6Gs one event last year. It's critical to get it right on the oiling side of the house. So please add what worked for you and what you would do different now... I currently have an ARE pan that I got from Marc Icard, along with the fitting that attaches to the stock LS3 oilpump. Beyond that, this is the last part of the project that I simply haven't mapped out yet. Cary McCallester added a treasure trove of info to my project thread, and that got me thinking... Bring on the ideas gang... Tank size/design/volume, pump type/belt type, everything you did to convert your project from we to dry! Mike

Broke? Sure thing!