Mikelly

Basically what Auxilery posted is it in a nutshell... If you want to go bullet proof then do the CV axle conversion when you go R200 and be done with axle failure. Ross COurigan is selling those adapters and axles are about $200 pair or less.. Mike Kelly

John, I used a piece of exhaust pipe cut to the right depth and drove it into the mustache bar. Mike

Guys, I'm guilty of poor typing as well...We all have different education levels and different backgrounds ...get off the "Speak English" tone of the thread and move on... Doesn't have to make sense to you in his signature...It makes sense to 82ZXRacecar and that is all that matters. He is 16 and learning... Think back to when you were 16... I know I didn't speak so good back then either... 82, hope you get a good job soon... But I'll tell you like I tell my own step sons...Focus on school work right now and learn as much as you can so you can make some REAL money when you get out of school. Mike Kelly Administrator

My Lincoln SP125 mig, including everything except the tank was on sale delivered to my door for $540. It is a gas and I use 75/25 argon - C02 MIX wih all my welding. Very easy to use and I weld all my control arms with it, as well as my cage and my floorpans. Mike Kelly

The Following prices are good through December 31: Pair Front Arms $300- regularly $340 Pair Front TC ROds $150-Regularly $175 Pair Rear Arms $475-Regular price is $550 Complete Kit $800 *Prices DO NOT Include Shipping* Powdercoating can be done in silver or Gloss Black for $100 for all six pieces! Mike Kelly ZF RACING LLC

Zya, I run 275-40-17 on the rear and Use a 9.5 inch wheel. I know that Bridgestone makes 285-40s in a 17 on the RE70 model. Be carefull when selecting a tire and double check to see what both the tread width AND the overall "TIRE" width are...they will be different. You should also check and see what the manufacturer will recommend as far as wheel width for their specific tire models. I also strongly recommend contacting the manufacturer for this...Most guys at tire shops aren't as knowledgable about the science of tires as they should be. Anyway, John C. is right, for the most part, but again, the variations in sizing between makes and models is stagering, so Check the manufacturers website or call them. My 275s fit my 9.5s PERFECT and my 255s (Up Front) almost look stetched to fit...defenitely the "Road Race" look. Mike

My 2.5 inch duals never bottomed out back there... I don't have pictures of the exhaust on the car, as it is now in many many pieces, but I seem to recall mine being farely close to the ground. Mike

OK Guys, I'm getting ready to reset my steering rack this coming week and I'm curious if any of you guys have rethreaded your rack end (Where the tie rod screws on) to 5/8 thread and use the tubular tie rods and Heim joints with bump steer spacers??? I know Arizona Zcar used to do these mods... Mike

I'm using a cutler 1000CFM unit on my 383 stroker with roller train... Not sure that will be enough though... Mike

...Notice the time on this post...CAN'T SLEEP!!!!! I got to work on the car some this weekend and all I'm thinking about now is what to do next... Man I got the stub axles re-installed in the car, and mounted the front sway bar, mounted the front calipers and got the garage spotless after welding up Craig B's Control arms...Got to get them to Richmond next weekend. Anyway, I'm working on Sheet metel and sealing the underside all this week. Then I'll move up to the front radiator mount area and additional bracing. Also plan to reset my steering rack and linkage! I'm actually making progress! Mike

Man I hate to be the bareer of bad news, but I'm pretty sure that thing only works with LATE blocks. The only trans that will work with the early block is a 93-97 T56. If someone knows different please advise... Mike

You guys will have to forgive me as I just scanned the thread... My .02$ worth is that Dan B. Is spot on. If you use good high temp fluid, performance pads and use a good performance shoe in the rear, You should brake fine for day in - day out driving and the occassional autocross. If you go to a track day event or driving school, plan to arrive with fresh fluid in the lines and master, and new pads and shoes. Larger brake calipers require a better rotor to fully maximize the four pistons on the toyota caliper and that caliper is SUPER heavy. You need to remember that the weight of the caliper can slow the response of the suspension, so adding a heavy caliper to hang off the strut assembly may hinder a Z that has been lightened to do SCCA autocross or roadcourse duties... Good thread guys... Mike Kelly

Adam, On the 2.8 and 4.3 the biggie is carbon deposits.. You could probably give this thing a BATH in Gum cutter or carb cleaner and it will fix it. $3 can of carb cleaner is worth trying Vs. the cost of the EGR... Mike Kelly

Well My side isn't KILLING me like it was earlier in the week. The plan is to start working this weekend on MY CAR!!!! I have one set of front control arms to re-do and a pair of TC Rods to finish up for Craig C. before they head off to the powder coating shop and then its time to finish up all my sheet metal!!!! I'll be so so happy to actually get my floor pans in and have the trunk section completely finished up. Once I get the POR 15 and under car paint complete I'll be able to seriously look at my cam/ header options, and possibly a twin turbo setup...Who knows...I'm just gonna be happy to get started on my own car again!!!! Mike Kelly

Several guys here have bought my front and rear kits... Maybe they will chime in. Price is in the e-mail I sent you earlier... You can see the parts at: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z2001 The rears will be redesigned soon to include a tubular round design instead of the sqaure tubing seen in these pics. Mike ZF Racing LLC

That would be them!!! Mike

Night_Rider_383, You sure know your stuff when it comes to mouse motors... I don't presonally do ANY porting work, as I can ruin a head as fast as you can blink and eye...I'm the Jack Kilvorkian of Grinding when it comes perfectly running a stone on anything delicate! I like what you spec on the crank and rods as well... Very nice and lots of detail... reads like childs play, but the hours it takes and the patience.... You da'man!!!!! Mike

My wife thinks my cars name is bitch...I'm always calling it that when I'm working on it! By the way, if you don't like the bolts on those ZG Flares, you can get quality flares from MAS Racing products for $200 for the complete set of four in a variety of sizes to accomodate different sized wheels... Do a search in this category for MAS Racing... Mike

When I get my digital camera back fdrom my buddy, I'll snap some pics of the rear stubs... Before and after as I have both types at the house. However, in reference to the 84300ZX conversion you speak of, I believe you refere to the disc brake conversion using 300ZX Rotors... TOtally different subject. Mike

Al, See if you can get a price on multiple sets...I have a Gnose and will need some covers... Mike Kelly

As usual, Don asked a GREAT question. Don, we call the setup "Sag" on mountain bikes... So it would also apply in cars as well. The only car I ever setup with scales, we made sure the car had the exact amount of gas the driver would use to race, and the driver with suit, helmet and all race/ safety gear in place and inside the car. With everything set properly it took over two inches out of the stroke of the piston on each strut at each corner...This was a B210 Datsun the guy had, with moderate springs and koni strut inserts. That setup told us that his springs were WAY inadequate on a "RACE Car". Stiffer springs were ordered.... How we can apply it in our "Real World" application is: You want to take a measurement of the cars four corners when you have two people in the car and the car FULL of all its fluids. If you use a stunt double for yourself, make sure that person is close to your body weight. Also, you can use steel weight plates, but the weight distribution will not be 100% accurate. Anyway, now you can check the setup on all four corners and measure from pre determined points at each corner to get your SAG ride height. From there, you do the math, but keep in mind, the # of your springs will play into the equation. The more stiff the springs, the lower you can go with less travel under suspension load. Mike Kelly

...And yes, this is VERY valid for aerodynamics... Removing Side mirrors and badges and emblems from the body helps as well. As was mentioned, the roof is a two piece sandwhich that you would have to weld when done with the cutting of the rails. That is on my schedule of mods to make! Mike

Let me know if you don't buy it... I'll pick it up for that price. Mike

Dan, Yours went out today Via US Mail...Tracking number is in the truck... I'll send it to you tomorrow. Tom, yours went out via UPS Today, and your tracking number is ALSO in the truck... Send it out tomorrow to you. Mike

All prices are for Pairs. Mike