Mikelly

Spoke with Ron Isky on the phone last night and it seems that I'll be going with a completely different setup all together...Getting rid of the hydraulic valve train and going solid roller with 1.6 rockers. I'm waiting for Ron Isky to get back with me on what I need, but we are gonna shorten the duration up quite a bit and go with a lift that equates to the 520-530 range... Complete motor is gonna come appart for a re-ring and check of everything... Mike

Hold fast and I'll post prices for their fuel rails tonight... They are identical to the units that came with my Cutler system. Nice billet units! Mike Kelly

Yup, thats the price I have in my book... But that is for the whole kit, including the cross over tubes and fittings. Man it is pricey! Boy oh Boy... Glad I got hooked up with the whole shibang for $950. I'm also glad my fuel pump turned out to be usable!!!! Mike

A motor is a big air compressor. It takes in air, ignites it using fuel and spark and then moves it out. If you improve the intake of air, but don't improve the area of combustion and fuel delivery, then you have wasted your time. If you improve on the first three, but not on the headers and exhaust, then you still have wasted your money. An engine should be look at in regards to TOTAL PACKAGE! Hope that explanation helps. Mike

So I should be good pushing 42# injectors on a 500HP small block chevy right??? Man that would be a good hting if I don't have to buy another pump! Mike

Mega, If you do it right and with the right parts you can get 11 second potential in a small blcok chevy for less than $5000 complete. Lots of crate engine builders out there are making crazy HP for cheap. If you do it yourself, shop for steals and go to swap meets, You could easily cut that price in half. Getting 500HP is easy and that will give you 10 second- 11 second quarters and if you build the chassis right, you should have something that should do more than be a 1320 queen! Bench racing is fun guys, and I'm glad we have been able to keep it that way. I'm going back to the garage now... Got all my pretty blue powder coated stuff bolted back to my car! I'm ready to put the wheels and tires back on it and roll it outside so I can clean the garage out! Mike

James M. you listen to Slayer at 16??? Guys this kid has got to be COOL!!!! Slayer is one of my altime favorite bands. Years ago I used to work out to their music... excellent way to get motivated! Happy Bday James... My 14 yearold turned 14 on the 15th and my new bride turned 3? on the 17th! Mike

We're talking apples and oranges here.. I have driven a TTZX and here is where I think the waters got muddied... You do all the mods we're talking to a 240-280Z and it becomes a seriously different animal... I'm biased towards the V8 Zs because I own one, but make no mistake, I WOULD LOVE to ahve the aerodynamics of a 300ZXTT. In stock form, hands down, the 300ZXTT is the faster/ maybe even BETTER car. Deep down inside I'd love to do an LS1 conversion on one someday! Mike

Mega, what is the dry weight of a 300ZXTT??? I thought I read that they were in the 3400# Range... But that sounds high... Also, wet weight would be good to. I know what my car weighed, but that was before welding in my substantial cage... BTW, the F-prepared 240Z I'm sponsoring out in Northern California is Killing the field out there. Of the last 5 races they have captured FASTEST TIME OF DAY 3 of the events, and one of those they got 1st and 3rd. The only competition they currently have is in the form of GT2 class (Full on Race) Cars... Our car has a 2.8 liter non-asperated motor and Nissan 4speed, no coil overs, no cage, weighing right at 1900 pounds, although that will soon change with the addition of cage, wider tires, and a few other mods, including some of my adjustable rear control arms. Mike Kelly ZF RACING LLC

Weeellll I'd say that 400-700 punds of weight difference is a big issue (Depending on the mods and options). Also, true the ealry Zs are in a different class in competition, but remember that a lot of that has to do with the displacement and weight of the car and years produced. I'd bet large dollars (Once my car is back together) that I could pull very respectable times on an autocross or track day event and I wouldn't be surprised to see a "Fastest time of Day" or two. Now I say this based on the mods I've done to my car, but knowing what I do now, I wouldn't do anything less to make it handle well... You know, cage, coilovers,larger swaybars, 17X9.5 wheels, lots of welding, lots of lightening, and BIG BRAKES and Wide TIRES!!! Not everyone will do this to a Z for personal or financial reasons, but this is what I would do to make up for the fact that the car is 30+ year old technology. In 1995 I went to an invitation only track day at mid-ohio where my car pulled over 1.1 G on 15x8 wheels and goodyear 9inch wide qualifier compound slicks. That was with Boge struts and stiff i inch lower Suspension technique springs with a cage and urethane bushings. This was also with that car weighing about 2700pounds. I also did my best slalum run with a trap speed of just over 68mph. I now know that I could beat the heck out of that because I didn't have enough caster dialed in, and no rear camber and toe adjustments. I was also wheezing on about 200 flywheel HP. If you are talking bone stock, these cars handle "OK". But if you want to go modified, then I'd go dollar for dollar with ya on my current project when it is done. My buddy with the 300ZXTT thinks I'm nuts, and he pretty much thought I was BSing him when I made the same claims before I took him for a ride... And that was on old 1980s KONI shocks and MSA springs with flexy floorpans! Next summer we'll have to hook up between Va and Jersey and I'll let you decide if I'm pulling your leg. Maybe By then I'll be able to start making suspension parts for the 2nd generation 300ZXs! I've already had several requests to look into it... Mike Kelly ZF racing LLC

Punn... Oh yea, I have that book and shame on me for misisng that one... Bottom line is lowering the CG and moving the weight so you can get closer to 50/50 distribution is an advantage for any car. At the risk of starting a war here (And please, lets keep it civil) I'd say that putting a cage in, doing coil overs, and all the usual suspension mods will absolutely make the V8 Z handle as well, if not better than the last generation 300ZX. If you do the JTR method, lower and slide the weight back, and get the right moytor and trans package together, I'd suspect that you would have a strong advantage. Those 300ZX TTs are heavy, and that will be the handicap here. I have a buddy who ownes a 300ZX TT and we have lined up on curvey back roads and he gave up. He is a much better motorcycle rider (Wheelie-ing past me on the interstate at well over 90mph) than car driver, but he was super impressed with how my car handles. BTW, his 93 300ZXTT ha the Stillen suspension kit on it, and his car is no slouch... Mike

Kim, Superdan, Owner of this site had a Scarab conversion V8Zcar. He was eventually convinced to do the JTR swap... His response is somewhere here in the thousands of posts on this site. Also, remember that the cost to swap over isn't much, as all you need is the mounts themselves, and then re-doing the drive shaft and sorting out the hood latch. I'm biased, but I'd bet that you might change your mind once you pushed that motor back and lower. Dan realy was amazed at how much better his car tracked and steered, not to mention the traction he gained. It is preference, and it depends on three things: Money, time, and intended purpose! Good luck! Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC

Yup, my guys are running slicks and will be running wider and softer "NEW" Slicks by next years MSA event. They hope to have a MUCH better showing there next spring! Old school thoughts were to dial in a bunch of negative camber, but to much of a good thing can hurt ya, as you well know John! Mike

Jim, I downloaded the Holley info and was blown away. Only downside (As JamieT and I talked this weekend)is no wideband 02 and I can live with that. BTW, Holley is selling their version of the Victor Jr with injector bungs welded in for $269 through Summit racng. I can get you the part number if you like.. I priced converting my intake and it cost more than the Holley unit does already converted and brand new in the box. Mike

The car I'm sponsoring for Autocross duties in Northern California actually backed off the camber SIGNIFICANTLY! Steve and Ian have found that running about 6.5-7.5 degrees positive caster and about 3/4 degree negative camber with 1/16-3/16 toe (depending) has helped them with stability in transitioning speed through the corners. The rear is set at about 1/2 degree with zero toe. They are currently using my control arms and TC rods (See the Hybrid Store) but will also upgrade to my adjustable rear units over the winter. These guys are setting Fastest time of Day at nearly every event they enter in their Fprep'ed 240z. The car is neutral, well balanced, and very happy with the current suspension settings. Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC

OK, here is a problem with that test you are running. One of you may be a much better driver than the other. Best way to judge the merits of both is to have an unbiased third party drive both cars. I'd find someone who has Zcar experience and turn him loose in both cars on the same course. I've seen professional drivers take cars of less ability and drive circles around those with much more HP and handling... Mike Kelly

Pete, Glad to hear that you and your son will be bonding in the garage. I know how much that means to you! Run the Vic Jr. so I can brag about how MY intake made it onto such a class ride! After I get the control arms out the door I'll be focusing FULL TIME on mine. Should have it back off the jack stands and on four wheels again within the next few days! Mike

Jim, I'm glad they came in and are just what you had described...I'm seriously thinking about long tubes from S&S, but we'll see. I really want as much bang for the buck as possibly, But I already have an exhaust that would accomidate a Block Hugger... Mike

Jim, You're Killing me... I'm suffering from the same thing Pete is...Just from a different angle..I took the stepson out for a night ride twice now on Mountain bikes and He is SERIOUSLY Bitten. So I get a call at work saying "Can we ride tonight?" and what do you think I do? I have no more pride than when he clears a hard section of logs or a tasty but dangerous downhill... I'm creating a monster! Ah, but on the bright side I almost have control arms done and ready to ship (Waiting on the machinist) and I'm done with the current crop of TC Rods and front control arms AND I have most of my own suspension hung! I have to take pics and post them, but the semi flat back with the royal blue looks SWEET!!!!!! Mike

I'll step in here again with a caviate: Those with L6 motors, please don't take offense, but physics actually do help with the argument here! The V8 Small blocks of all the american manufacturers have lover decks than the L6 blocks. The majorety of the weight on a small block chevy sits at about 2-2.5 feet and below on a V8 converted Z. This gives a HUGE advantage to handling. My 383 stroker small block chevy weighed about 34# more than my L6 that had large valves and fuel injection. I moved the battery and that was about it. I also used aluminum heads and water pump/ intake. These guys don't want you to "BUTCHER" your car for two reasons: They will lose another competitor from their class; You will be MUCH faster if you do a conversion properly! Re-read that last part. A poorly done conversion is what has developed this MYTH of unsafe and poor handling V8 conversions. It just isn't so as long as you DON'T cut corners. Listen to those of us who have done it right, save your pennies and spend them wisely, and you will have a true "SUPER CAR!" Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC

All the guys you are speaking to have NEVER done a V8 Conversion. Bottom line is that IF you set up the suspension right, get the right brakes on that car, the right tires on that car, and a well done V8 Conversion, you should plan for some "Fastest Time of Day" trophies. I won a regional championship in a F-prepared 260Z and that car was DOG SLOW compared to my V8Z and didn't handle nearly as well either! They will also probably tell you that the V8Z is gonna be nose heavy, and out weigh the L6 Z by 200+ pounds or some such nonsense. Trust me, you will do FAR BETTER by building a V8 and spending the proper money to do the job right with the right parts. By the way, you need good control arms and TC rods to dial in your suspension... And I sell them!! Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC

Chris has bowed out of the Zcar scene at this time and is now the proud owner of a Mustang. I don't think he even reads this BB anymore. Best bet is to contact S&W yourself. They are very helpfull and informative. Mike kelly ZF Racing LLC

T-Tops weren't an option either. T-tops came into play with the ZX models only. I recommend atleast running Sub-Frame connectors and strut bars. Mike

Well I feel 100% better tonight, but not 100% if that makes sense. I'll be back in the garage tomorrow evening and plan for every evening this week to wrap up the first four orders. I got a new mini-chop saw and a band saw in today, which will aid in making Cleaner, quicker, and more exact cuts. Now all thats left is getting in the small parts from Williams Machine (Left hand thread steel rod and some more stock for the additional four sets, as well as parts to Make John Williams Control arms for him) and we'll be good to go. Mike [ October 09, 2001: Message edited by: Mikelly ]

I'm gonna be delving into this area as next spring approaches since I'm building an Open Road Racer. I've done some research as well and what Davy states is pretty much true. I've had several Zs up to the 150-165MPH mark and they get very scetchy at high speed, even with whale tails, spoilers and lowered and stiff suspension. There is software out that can aid in calculating the aerodynamic issues but your absolute best bet will be using a wind tunnel and some talented engineers. Be carefull what you add, as these cars CAN take flight. Just read in the latest Chevy HiPo about the quickest Corvette on the open Road Race circuit taking flight at the April running of the Silver state Challenge. Seems it crossed a small bridge and gained enough lift to cause the car to leave the pavement, spin, and roll into an embankment. All this happened in excess of 185mph (Althought the article claimed it happened at 200MPH). Driver and Navegator walked away safely. Mike