datsunan

Thats what I'm tying to figue out!

Dude those are some good times! Jersey can you see my post yet on the dyno run. That will answer many of your questions. I don't know what trans it is but it does'nt sound very good and will not last much longer. I have problems shifting it even when I'm not racing. I'm a bit more concerned about my dyno results. Give me some input on that if you can see it yet Thanks Paul

Yeh Jersy I'm in a 73 240 also ncie and light. My rt was a.88 (first time dragging) 60ft was a 2.1 1/8 at 81mph 9.11. I think somethings a miss with my motor? I'm running a cheep cone paper air filter so I'm not sure I"m getting enough air, if you look at my dyno run I'm a little rich and I'm not talking about the green. At the track I was only running 14psi max so I was probably a little shy of my dyno power #s. I don't know what the trim on my turbo is I guess I should find out. All I know is this thing a'nt fast enough.

I can't get my dyno results to load on my original post so I'll try here again.

How stupid of me I knew it did'nt look right! I'm trying to upload to the site now but it is either to big or I reduce it and can't read it. I'll get it soon I hope. I'm not to good with computers or spelling!

I can't get them to the hybrid site either. I just posted for help in tech support. Thanks thou.

Im trying to upload my scaned dino and ETs but keep getting errors not a uploadable file. It is a jpeg and I have uploaded pics from my sight befor. http://www.msnusers.com/0o2tcniburdq6jfti354ec3o01/Documents/dino%201.jpg ps can you go to this link snd see my time slip and dino?

I over boosted and was running 16psi! So you can"t see the dino results or the time slip?

Well I'm still having problems with the timing and now I can't adjust my dizzy any further to compensate so I'm stuck with my new 20,000 dollar z that runs like a yugo. Why would my ecu keep changing my timing and how can I get some adjustment back? If I unplug my ecu should I be able to reset it? Is there a proceedure for setting the timing on the 83 electronic dizzy? Someone please help, I'd pull my hair out if I had any!! Thanks Paul ps I now have a new chts and my tps is adjusted correctly and the dropping out at 2000 rpm is gone, some good news!

As you can see on the time slip I ran a 9.1 at 81 mph I had another run at 9.2 and 84mph. Something is not right and I'm hoping you guys can help me figure it out. Thanks Paul

What the hell!!!!! I can't even get a single turbo to work right for me how does he do it with 8. Guess thats why I'm an a/c tech not a mechanic. Where is he going with the outlet of the compressors? Does he have an I/C in his glovebox???

Well this was not what I was hoping for but it's a starting point I guess. You can see at the bottom of my post what my motor has and I was hoping to get over 300rwhp and under 8.8 for the 1/8 tha way I know I could run 12's in the 1/4. Any ideas? Are these good #'s or should I be putting down more than this? PS See my post further down for my dyno and ET I know the Et is hard to read but thats as good as it gets.

I took my car to the dyno last week and also was not to happy with the results. If you consider that my boost was hitting 16 psi I think we are running close to the same power. I screwed with my timing trying it at 18,21,24,27 but it was the best at 20deg. I did not watch the timing during the pull, wish I had. I can't get my timing to stay set at 20, I set it and the next day its all f'd up. I don't know why but when I figure it out I'm going back and I'll check for retard under boost. I don't know how it will retard though cause I don't have a boost sensor that is connected to my ecu. Upper right corner is the best 1/8 mile time I could do, by the time I got to the track(same day as dino) My timing was off 2deg. Anyways check it out ps I know you can't see my dyno right now I'm working on it.

Man that thing is sick!! It looks fast aready just sitting in the driveway.

I don't have a FSM so I so I don't know how to check the codes. I adjusted the tps and the dropping out at 2000 stopped so thats cool. It ran well at the dino the other day so I will see if the timing stays now. I will be posting dino and 1/8 mile ets later. Thanks Paul

I just thought of something you could try. Remove the #1 plug put a long srewdriver in and turn the crank with a wrench till the scewdriver is push up all the way befor it starts to fall again, make sure the SD does not get wedged, or against the cylinder walls. Now you are at TDC does your timing mark on the crank line up, is your dizzy pointed to #1 take the valve cover off, is the v mark on the sproket lined up with the - mark. If not you may not be on the compression stroke and you will need to rotate it using the same process till it does, 3x max if it all won't line up then you need to do as I stated in my last post. Paul

Actually it's 42 links, this confused me at first as well. I had a problem getting my motor to start also and I to suspected it was timing. I know you don't want to have to take the front cover off but if you are unsure of the chain or the dizzy shaft install you need to take it off and verify them. You will waste more time guessing then it will to check it out. Befor taking it out you could do this test. Set you engine to TDC #1 verify that your dizzy is pointing to #1 on the cap (aabout 9: o-clock ). Now remove the dizzy from the motor, remove the #1 plug and ground the treads, turn the key on and move the dizzy shaft back and forth over the #1 position. does it spark #1? If not the timing is way off, where on the dizzy it will spark #1, if no spark then you have a problem with you coil or associated wiring. If the timing is off then either the dizzy shaft is in the wrong groove on the crank shaft drive gear or your crank and cam are not timed due to your chain links. You need to have 42 links between the cam and crank markers. Both of which should be on the right side of the crank and cam. Count the # of pins not the links themselfs this is what scewed me up. Also make sure the cam sprocket is on the cam in the right possition.When you are at TDC the v shaped mark on the sproket needs to line up with the - mark on the locating plate that retains the cam and your timing mark on the crank should be at 0. Set it to TDC befor removeing the cover. Hope this helps letme know how you make out. Paul

Yes I went ahead and changed it since everything else on the car is new. My problem has gone for now so I guess I'll keep my fingers cross. ANyone checking this post for answers to my question? This will give you a baseline. At 68f =2.3-2.7k ohms 122f=.77-.87ohms 176f=.30-.33ohms

Any other Ideas? Seems no matter what I do I can't get my timing to stay at 20deg. Two nights ago it was running great, the next day like crap again and of corse the timing was off. If the car is warmed up and idling if I pull the plug from the cylinder head temp sensor should my timing and rpm change? cause it does'nt, only when the car is not up to temp then it will make a diff.

Im having trouble with my timing, it keeps changing on me. I think it might be the chts, but I don't know what it should read when hot. If I disconnect it my timing does not change. Should it?

Here's some pics of my baby.

Man thats a sweet setup! Thanks guys.

The topic says it all. I've got an 83 l28t and I want to get rid of the two 90deg bends in my stock down pipe, Has anyone got pics of a fabed pipe or know where to get one allready made. I have made everything else on my car so I'm not apposed to building it myself just need some direction. Thanks Paul

Hey Pete I'm taking my JWT 400 to the dino on friday I'll let you know how it charts. I'd also agree it may be in your timing. If you are using an upgraded ecu from wolf they say 20deg at idle as to the stock ecu setting is 24. I'm going to dino just for that reason I'm having a hell of a time with my timing, I'm going to make timing adjustments and do multiple pulls. I hope to be putting down 300+. I'll let you know. Paul