MikeJTR

JTR hasn't done much with Z cars in the last 10 years. Only recently has JTR got back into the Z's. And only in the past week did we decide to make parts for the LS1 swap. I would like to note that many people on HybridZ have more knowledge and experience with V8 Z's than JTR, and we are learning much from this forum. The LS1 Z swap is an expensive swap, and we don't know if many people will actually do, or complete the LS1 swap. We cannot offer information regarding the wiring, computer, or fuel system. The point being, the only parts we plan to offer for the LS1 Z V8 swap are mounts, headers, and cooling parts. One more note, the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 Chevrolet truck engines have the same architecture as the LS1, but they use a cast-iron engine block (which, according to Chevrolet, weighs about 65 lbs more than the LS1). It may be possible to install an LS1 intake manifold on these engines, and install them into a Z car. A 6.0 engine from a Cadillac Escalade has about the same power as an LS1, and costs a lot less.

JTR should have the Sanderson LS1 Z headers in stock very shortly. I photographed the headers that MAS280 has, and took them to Sanderson a few days ago. What makes MAS280's headers special is that they are 1-3/4". Also, MAS280 did not use the John's Cars mounts, so the header's he has may not work on other LS1 Z cars. Custom one-off headers are very expensive, however, if Sanderson makes a pattern for the 1-3/4" LS1 Z headers, the price drops substantially. We should have the 1-3/4" LS1 headers in a few weeks. The estimate for the 1-3/4" plain (no coating) will be under $400. The 1-3/4" ceramic coated should be about $500. However, I would like to add a bit of caution. Sometimes the first few headers require "adjustments" until the bugs are worked out. We plan on carrying the 1-1/2", 1-5/8", and the 1-3/4" LS1 headers in the next few weeks. Because we are a distributor of Sanderson headers, we can actually sell the headers to the public for less than Sanderson will sell to the public. With that being said, Sanderson's phone number is 650-583-6617 One more note, if there is enough interest, we are looking at producing LS1 V8 mounts similar to those on MAS280's car. He has photographs of these somewhere on this forum. MAS280 is very talented and very knowledgeable, and he told me it would be ok to copy his design

As far as headers for cars with recirculating ball steering, I don't we are going to make any. It isn't very difficult to install a rack-and pinion-steering system onto ZX cars that have the recirculating ball steering sytem. The changeover requires the front crossmember, steering rack, steering shaft, and steering coupler. The parts are easily obtained at wrecking yards, and the cost for a complete set-up is typically about $100-$200.

JTR is working on a ZX V8 mounting kit. It is expected to be ready within two months. Currently, JTR has headers for ZX's with the rack and pinion steering. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZX_Header-RackPin.html A radiator and radiator mounting kit is also available. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZX_Radiator_Kit.html

An OEM T56 has the rear mount positioned about 1-1/4" lower than the T5 or the 700-R4. I would not recommend the JTR crossmember (DAT-106) due to potential problems with driveline angles. The DAT-106 may raise the back of the T56 transmission too high. I believe the simplest way to mount the T56 into the Z is with a crossmember made of a straight piece of steel, 3/8" thick, 3" wide, and 23" long. Almost any steel yard can provide the material for less than $10. Look in the phone book under "steel" The exhaust will go over the transmission crossmember. This is shown in the JTR book on page 5-11

No, you have to install the Datsun sending unit into the Chevrolet engine. See the attached link: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Wat-Temp-Send.html

Correct me if I am wrong, but it sounds like you ran a hose from one heater hose fitting to another heater hose fitting, bypassing the heater core. If you are doing this, it may result in coolant recirculating through the heater hose, and not through the radiator, or engine. This could cause the problem you describe. The underdrive pulley would just make things worse. Chevrolet and other manufactures often run restrictors in the heater hose to prevent this type of problem. Also, JTR/Stealth has just started making air bleed valves that can be installed into the upper radiator hose and the heater hose. The parts should be on the JTRpublishing.com website in the next few weeks.

Stealth Conversions (JTR) is currently making air bleed valves that can be installed in radiator hoses and in heater hoses, with sizes for hoses from 1/2" to 2". Cost is $25 each. These parts should be on the JTRpublishing.com website within a few weeks.

Vibration problems are often caused by transmission mounts that are too stiff, and by worn out differential mounts. Don't use the urethane transmission mounts -- they have been a very bad source of vibration problems. Use the softest transmission mount available -- most aftermarket transmission mounts are too stiff. Get the transmission mount from the Chevrolet dealer. The differential mounts tend to wear out and fail over the years, many vibration problems have been fixed by replacing the differential mounts.

JTR has used Caprice tailhousings for $60. Part #4L60-Caprice The housings are cleaned, and come with a new rear bushing and seal.

JTR is currently working on a ZX V8 Conversion. Adding u-joints to the steering shaft can be done -- but it is expensive. In order to clear the 1993-1997 Camaro LT1 style manifold, or the 1982-1992 Camaro V8 manifold, the steering shaft angles require the use of a double-u-joint. For example, if you use the Borgenson brand of u-joints, support bearings, couplers, and shafts, the cost can easily exceed $300. In addition, you will have to fabricate brackets to mount the support bearings. The block hugger headers will not fit in the ZX. The JTR ZX V8 headers are the most practical, and least expensive route to get the exhaust around the steering shaft in a ZX with rack and pinion steering. One of the reasons for the relatively high cost of the headers is that the flange is 3/8" thick steel to prevent warping. Thicker steel, better quality -- more money. See attached link: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Headers.html

If it's off 1/8", then add a 1/8" thick spacer or washer between the set-back plates and the aluminum spacers to raise the low side of the engine.

In response to DaleMX The JTR radiator will cool an LS1 when used with the Taurus fan. The core of the JTR radiator is basically the same design as the LS1 radiator core, but it is not as wide. The JTR radiator core is 20.75 wide, and the LS1 radiator core is about 26.5" wide. The dimensions of the JTR radiator are shown on the following link: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator.html The only problem with the LS1 radiator is that it is too wide to fit in the Z.

JTR now has shorty style headers available for the 280ZX. The header on the drivers side exits between the frame rail and the steering shaft. These headers will only fit the cars with rack and pinion steering -- they will not fit on the ZX's with recirculating ball and roller. The headers are not yet on the JTR website (http://www.JTRpublishing.com). Cost of the ZX headers is about $200 for the plain steel, and $300 for the ceramic coated.

The reason the 4-row radiators don't seem to work as well as they should is because the thick core blocks air-flow through the radiator. Less airflow-- less cooling. Also, once air has gone past the first row, the air is hot, and it does not cool the rear rows. On trucks with heavy-duty engine-driven fans, the 4-row radiators can cool well because the engine driven fan can pull enormous amounts of air through the core. Another thing to know about 4-row radiators used in trucks is that the fin density is normally about 12 fins/inch. This allows leaves, bugs and other debris to go through the radiator when used in offroad conditions. On cars, which have a fin density of about 16-18 fins/inch, bugs and leaves can quickly block the air-flow through the core, resulting in overheating, when used in off-road conditions. A 100 amp alternator would not be necessary for the Ford Taurus fan, because in most cases, it will cool fine on low speed, which only draws about 15 amps. Another thing to consider about alternators is how much amperage it will put out at idle -- In a Z car with the JTR aluminum radiator, once the car is moving above 25 mph, the ram air should be sufficient that the electric cooling fan can be turned off.

JTR has an aluminum radiator kit for the V8 Z that weighs less, and cools better than the 4-row radiator currently in your car. The radiator is thinner, so it will provide room for the Taurus fan. Also, the brackets that come with the kit allow mounting the Taurus fan assembly to the brackets, rather than to the radiator core. Check out the following link for the V8 Z cooling chapter (you will have to scroll down the screen after getting on the page): http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html The radiator and brackets can be seen on these links: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT-Radiator-Mount.html http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator.html

JTR has recently developed an alumimum radiator kit for the 1970-1978 Z cars with the 6-cylinder engines. The aluminum radiator kit uses the same radiator for cooling V8 engines. Check out the following link: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator_Kit.html

JTR has just completed an aluminum radiator conversion kit for the 280ZX with the 6-cylinder engine. The 280ZX kit is not yet shown on the JTR website, but it is similar to the Z kit on this link: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator_Kit.html

Check out this aluminum/plastic radiator replacement for the Z car: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator_Kit.html