rustrocket
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Posts posted by rustrocket
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What about v mounted radiators in front of the engine (so they both meet at the radiator support)? hmm...
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how low will the LS sit in the 510s engine bay? would it be possible to mount the radiator on top of the engine ala-WRX intercooler style? (again' date=' In my head it sounds like it wouldn't work for a variety of reason but i felt it was worth mentioning.) what about cutting out the radiator support and making a new one out of tubing? you might be able to gain a few inches on either side and maybe even one or two up front, the headllights might get in the way so maybe a low and wide custom made radiator would do the trick. or you could just remove the inner headlights completely and leave the holes there for cooling. what about a full tube frame front end? would it be possible to mount two smaller radiators at opposing angles off to either side of the engine? 8/ maybe something like that?
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I think the radiators on opposing angles to the side of the engine would suffer from being too close to the exhaust? I pondered the idea of cutting the radiator support and tubing it, which seems like a good option (i cant afford to tube frame the whole front of the car
) . I've seen in a a couple cars (particularly, a Triumph Spitfire on ebay a few years ago that had a 427 Cobra engine in there) with bottom mounted radiators. Unfortunately this weather is holding me up, as my whole swap is being done outside
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Thanks for the support qwik240z. I think when i finish this swap, i'll change my name to stupidfastdime .
Anyways, i obviously need the engine to be pretty far back, but at what point would it be too far back?
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My suspension is looking decent already. Troy Ermish coil overs all the way around, tokico 5 ways in the front, Hal/Carerras in the rear, addco sway bars, techno toy camber plates and tie rods, and i also have a 4 point bar in the rear that will turn into a full cage after the swap is complete.
I want this car to handle somewhat. I'm not expecting that i'm going to go to a track and spank enzos and f430s all day long. I want to have fun. I want to go fast in a straight line, and be able to turn when i need to. I dont think that's too much to ask, is it?
Am i just blissfully ignorant? Should i ditch the project before i butcher a rust free 510?
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I sent him an e-mail...his reply was a little discouraging, but not enough to stop me.
> I understand that you have a pretty mean buick 215
powered 510
True, 300hp full race 8500rpm motor. Mounted so far
back that the front crank throw is at the original
firewall. 2000#, 500# per corner. 10" slicks. It is
almost perfect on paper. It cost a freaking fortune.
>that handles rather well.
Absolutely false. It is ALWAYS slower than my 200 hp
L18 powered EP class on 8" slicks 510. They are both
autocross only cars.
The directional stability is terrible. The chassis is
too short and too flexible. The rear suspension goes
between trailing throttle over steer and power
oversteer. The low polar momoent is impossible to
predict. It breaks EVERYTHING. It has even snapped a
rear trailing arm pivot bolt. It seldom actually runs
5 minutes without breaking something.
There is no way to supply enough air to cool the
motor. It has a huge radiator diagonally mounted in
the original engine bay with fully shrouded push and
pull fans. It has all electric pump drives to keep it
circulating after shut down just so that is will still
crank over and restart in less than a half hour. It is
red.
It makes great noises and looks great, but is a total
failure as a 510 or even as a Buick.
>Would it be possible for me to talk to you in detail
and get some suggestions about what to (and what not)
to do with my swap?
Don't do it.
A Z has been converted very well with an LS1, by Dave
Kipperman in Roseberg OR, but it cost well over $50K
by the time the chassis was re-engineered to handle
over 250hp. Z chassis are even shorter than 510s and
are in big trouble for that.
There is no way known to harness over 200hp with the
510 semi-trailing arm rear suspension design. Both the
semi-trailing oversteer and general flex are trouble.
510s work because they are light, when they work.
2000# and up they lose that charm. A V8 ain't gonna
get you there. No V6 nor turbo conversions have been
worth a crap yet, much less V8 conversions.
Dennis Hale
THOUGHTS ON THIS ANYBODY?
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It's fairfield, sorry. I'm going to antioch tonight for more car parts.
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If you are, and dont mind picking up some wheels for me, and being paid for your gas, please let me know.
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Handling is one of my biggest concerns (i know...then why did i pick an sbc?. Wouldn't having the rear cooling system move some of the weight back a bit?
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The idea of the rear cooling intrigues me...i like it. Can somebody give me a rough idea of how the radiator would me mounted?
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After talking to a few guys, i've conlcuded that the easiest thing to do is to put a channel into the oil pan.
I'm going to tackle the dash and firewall today.
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Thats gonna be just crazy! I love it! How much does that car weigh anyways?
10s for sure.
Terry
Terry' date=' according to a recent ebay ad (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-datsun-510-S15-SR20DET_W0QQitemZ4622514018QQcategoryZ6188QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem), the stock weight is around 2140. I'm guessing with the cage, and engine swap, i'll be closer to 2300?
Did i mention i have a ported throttle body, .588 lift cam, headers, and a lightweight flywheel?
neat stuff tho i cant wait to see it all the way in and how the exhaust is going to workI was thinking upswept headers
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I hate to tell ya this but a good running SR20DET Is going to be just as fast and handle much better.
Good luck with the swap.
I'm sure somebody told the guys at Scarab the same thing...There's guys who swap in vg30et motors and can still turn' date=' and those are heavy motors! As it turns out, the ls1 is not much heavier than the sr20det, hence my choice. Besides, the cost of 450+ reliable horsepower in an sr20det far exceeds the total cost of my swap.
I'm doing this swap because i want something different...
I used to own a 510 with an Olds 215 V8. I did the LS1 swap into my 240Z and I had thought about doing it into a dime but I felt that the LS1 is way too big. If you can modify the firewall to set the motor back about 4-5 inches you may have a shot at it. Pull the dash and remove the heater unit. Then take a look at how far you can move it back and still keep the dash in place. You really need to try and get the weight back as far as possible if you plan on it being able to handle at all.Qwik 240 - There's a guy who runs the Firestone in Mountain View (CA) who used to own a 215 powered 510. He blew the motor one day at the track and put in a 4 banger (not sure what type). Anyhow, i dont plan on keeping anything resembling the stock dash in there, so that's out tomorrow. The other issue is going to be making shifter linkage so i dont have to shift from the backseat.
Dale - If i get a front sump oil pan, then i'd have to move the front crossmember.
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looking at all the work this is going to take, i'm starting to wish i wasnt me either...
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I still cannot believe it actually fit inside the engine bay !!
There's about 3" on both sides from the coil packs to the strut towers.
As soon as i began wrestling the engine and cutting the radiator support, i realized why this hasn't been done before (that i know of).
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The radiator looks like it's going to be a tight fit. I think routing the intake will be equally as interesting. I ordered a set of sanderson block hugger headers which look as though they'll fit when the firewall is cut and the engine is moved back enough to they clear the steering box.
I thought about the toilet paper idea, but i like the thought of retrofitting a bidet into the passenger seat better, although i'd have to have a water tank somewhere...
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So, i did as trial fit of the engine into my 72 510 this weekend.
Current issues:
A.The oil pan sits right on top of the steering linkage.
Option: Make a channel in the cast alloy pan for the linkage to move right through it.
2. Convert to rack and pinion?
3. make it a drop link?
B. I need to cut the firewall to sit the engine far back enough, and to fit the bellhousing. If i can move it back 4 inches, i can adapt the 510 engine mounts to the ls1 without too much trouble.
If anybody can offer me some alternative suggestions, i'd be very open to listen to them. Thanks.
Here's my only pic of the trial fit (camera died)
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Looking at a flywheel for my ls1 / 510 swap. Here are my options:
F1 x-lite chromoly, 13 lbs $239 shipped
OR fidanza aluminum, 12.5 pounds $295 shipped
I couldnt find any manufacturer website for the F1 Racing wheel, so i'm leaning towards the Fidanza for their decent reputation. Any recommendations or first hand experience would be appreciated. Thanks.
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I just sent you a pm. I live in campbell, and would be willing to help you out. Pm me back with details, or shoot me an e-mail at clarkcameronm@yahoo.com
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Does anybody have any experience with the sparco pro 2000 seat? It's a tossup between that and the evo 2, but my only concern is comfort. I fit fine in the evo 2, but not sure about the pro2000. If anybody has any first hand experience, i'd appreciate it. If it helps, i'm 6'1, weigh 220, waist 31", chest 50". thanks.
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thanks for the info guys. i probably wont be buying this engine. apparently, good things come to those who wait.
on a sidenote, the throttle body is still on the engine, but was going to be removed before the sale.
) . I've seen in a a couple cars (particularly, a Triumph Spitfire on ebay a few years ago that had a 427 Cobra engine in there) with bottom mounted radiators. 
Picture of my trial fit. Ls1/ Datsun 510.
in Non Tech Board
Posted
What did he do about the size difference in tubing/piping from the radiator hose to the heater core/trans cooler?