Negligence

Its from Yuta's 240z I really like the wheel

Thank you!

Am i missing it or is no one answering my question haha, how do you remove the stock frame rails? just cut them out? what would you use for that? is the car safe when it has those out and on stands?

If i get a shop space in the future (working on it currently) I think at that price(1000+), I rather buy a decent used welder, practice for a few weeks, then slowly and carefully do the job myself. The only thing im really worried about is the frame rails. I know on the 280's you can weld right over but, with the 240's do you remove the stock rails? how? cut em out? thats the only part of the process that truely worries me.

Yea, i checked again this morning, the car can go into every gear no issue when the car is off, but once i turn it on, it cant go into any gear, but it can move from right to left no problem. Im gonna start the car in 2nd gear and bring it to mechanic by my school tomorrow morning, hes only about 3 miles away, i think i can make it that far cruising in 2nd.

i really hope its the slave/master cylinder, tranny synchros dont usually go at the mileage im at, and i dont really beat on it

it hasnt felt weird...do mechanics charge for estimating whats wrong? i know it sounds dumb but...i've never been in this situation, and i do not like it one bit...

Its a 1995 Saturn sl1, i posted on the saturn forums but they are very slow and i am freaking out, i have three finals this week, work full time, and am barely hanging in there, i know there is a lot of knowledge on this forum and i really hope someone knows whats going on based on thse symptoms Lately, it has become impossible to get my car in gear, i literally need to use two hand to shove it into gear and when i was driving, the car would only shift into gear at around 1800rpms, it would just drop right in, no grinding, the car also did not grind when forcing into gear initially i drove from home to school about 45 min, and when i got off the exit, i put the car in nuetral, and after that i coudlnt get the car back into gear, and sat there for 10 minutes, i finally got it to grind into 3rd and barely made it to my building. Side note - even when it was impossible to shove the car in gear, it did not grind, and when shifting gears, it did not grind, it fell right into gear if i left it pushed against it. About 5 hours later, i went to my car to get my stuff and just to see, i tried putting the car into gear, and to my disbelief, it went it every gear no issue except for reverse the car was not running but im almost positive it didnt do this before then I changed the tranny fluid this weekend, it did not help whatsoever Does anyone have any clue whats going on?

Trying to save some money, wondering if anyone had some Zedd Findings floor pans that never got used laying around or any other aftermarket floor pan. I have a 73 240z

hey man, just want to say THANK YOU for making such a helpful write up with pics etc, how were cutting out the stock rails? Im going to be undertaking this project soon i feel, and am having a veteran welder come over to do my work, just want to help as much as possible and do as much of the prelim work as possible

thats so much $$$, do you think the frame rails need to be TIG welded? I wonder if MIG welds would be okay for something that takes so much stress

We'll I would have the new floor pans already, that are made for drop in and welding. The only part i be nervous about doing is the frame rails. Cutting those out and welding the new ones in, sounds like quite a job.

Yea, coilovers do sound nice, i just wanted to get the floors done before i move the car, so i can repaint interior, i guess i will just paint the backhalf before i move the car and the front half when i replace the floors this spring

I couldnt find any pricing on the forum How much has it run people to replace floor boards and upgraded bad dog frame rails Im just talking labor, I talked to my auto body guy, and he checked out the forum, and saw a write up, he estimated 12 hours a side, and a grand total of a 1200-1500 dollar bill. He said if it can be done in less time to let him know and we can work out a plan. Does anyone in the tristate know how to do this themselves? If you can make a house call im willing to pay. If not, what have shops charged you for welding in floor pans and the upgraded rails? Also, what exactly did they do to justify that price, cut out boards and rails then welded new ones in etc. Anyone know a good place in North NJ area?

Mounts Roll Bar r200 lsd Full coilover suspension Racing seats Big Brake Kit

have any of the auto guys posted up Quarter Mile Times, id love to see auto/manual comparisons with similar mods etc, to see who has quicker times or higher traps

I didnt get to do a ton this weekend, was running around a bit and i had to come back to school today to study for an Advanced Accounting exam :/ What i did get done: Pulled Dash/pseudo removed harness Continued stripping interior Clean up top of battery terminal Bought new toys Addressed a possible rust issue on car First off, i bought some new toys, HARBOR FREIGHT is like the new Toy's R US....I bought a Multifunction tool (sands/strips/cuts) a 4speed dremmel, and a drill, 188 piece accesory kit for dremel, and numerous attachments for the drill. Here is are a few pics of the dash removal and what i did with the harness (they made these harnesses pretty smooth, all the clips have direct mates and it be really hard to mix stuff up when reconnecting, i appreciated this a lot) I worked on the driver side a bit, and after the dash was out, was able to address the sound deadoning on the top center area. The drill and new attachments helped get the all the paint off. I want all of this down to bare metal before i do floorboards, so i can prime and repaint everything to look new again This spot here was cracking and made me super nervous, and i didnt want to wait a whole winter to find out what was going on underneath it. From the inside of the car i could feel the other side and it was smooth and not rusted through, and i poked it with a screw driver (half holding my breathe) and it seemed solid, So we took my new dremel and a appropriate attachment and brught it all the way down, there was some level of contact rust with cracking, but i got all of it off and now as you can see, its clean bare metal. This made me feel WORLDS better Got my gf working on the car! She wasnt too happy with how much her wrists hurt after this, but she was happy to help. She cleaned up the top of the battery terminal. I still have to get to underneath it and around it, but at least it was addressed a little bit. Won't be able to do much work next weekend, ill be at the gf's house for thanksgiving, but the weekend after, i shouldnt have any serious school obligations and i want to spend a serious 20 hours of just cleaning the interior, getting it all down to the metal. I need to either buy/borrow an air compressor, cause a shopvac isnt going to pick up all the debris building it, but with an air compressor, i feel like i can blow most of it out and almost suck it up out of the air with a shop vac. Im not sure, if anyone is in the area with a pancake compressor and wants to stop by to help, PM me, im serious. AAAND for future reference, i just lowered the megapixel setting on my camera and the pics from now on will be a bit smaller and more manageable to check out, sorry for any inconvenience.

How many lsx guys here are running an auto trans? Benefits/downfalls...overall consensus, what have people liked more? Im starting my project and want to go lsx, debating whether or not to go manual or auto tranny, I've driven stick all my life, and love it entirely, but finding auto motor and trans is much easier to do than finding a t56, and getting a totaled auto car, then buying manual tranny etc can become very costly. Just wanted to know how people liked their setups and anything I should know about.

Nice looking Z man, I hope I can lend a helping hand in the upcoming months

I think we are all going to have to agree to disagree when it comes to stock interior pieces

call me 201 207 5916 like to spend 250-300 based on condition

I want to get the motor in and running, then take care of all the body work. I assume a lot of cutting is in order when it comes to the rails and boards etc.

There only 85 for the fronts and 55 for the rear from Bad Dog parts? I thought they were going to be a lot more expensive. I guess i shouldnt complain haha. But yea, Im gonna order the floors, support rail, and frame rails this friday, so by the time your back ill have all of that. Do welders usually make housecalls or did you bring your car to a shop?

I just need floor and support rails right? so $300, i dont need frame rails

Yes...this thanksgiving, i am thankful for heat guns and power drills with brush attachments