mjfawke

LOL! What makes you think democracy is the answer? True democracy only works when isolated from class, religion and ethnicity...

Possibly a leak, but how about moving the boost gauge to before the IC to check that it isn't a blocked core. Wouldn't be the first time a rag has been left in an end tank...

Perhaps some here should review the history of this whole conflict (back to the USSR vs Afghanistan would be a start). FWIW - the Taliban are not listed as a Terrorist organisation, and most of the "unlawful combatants" being held were with the Taliban, not Al-Qaida. Our inability to deal with prisoners under the Geneva convention (using the lame "unlawful combatants" excuse) will come back to haunt us. Parading our disregard for international law undermines our own societies.

RB26DETT motors being raced here in Australia had a lot of problems with cracked blocks due to the stiff engine mounts being used. They were replacing the blocks after each event. The L series are of heavier constuction.... but unless there was a reeeeeeally good reason, I would avoid solid mounting. There are companies making engine mounts using bushes - similar concept to the outer bushes in the 'late' gearbox mounts. You can also make replacement engine mounts using polyurethane rubber kits - experiment with hardness as required... See http://www.zcarworkshop.com.au/Newsite/home.html

And then you realise it's a guy....

I'll disagree.... Pull valve springs and measure against Nissan spec. Replace as necessary. After five years sitting, I would expect a few to be short. Then again, unless you are going to rev the nuts off it, it is unlikely that you will hit valvebounce anyway, and the installed heights aren't all that accurate - you need to play with collets and retainers for that... So - if you stick to normal redline, you can keep the current springs.

Just my thoughts.... First off - if the EFI thinks the engine is cold it will add extra fuel, so fix the thermostat. Go genuine - stainless steel lasts longer. Check the engine temp sensor to ensure the connector is not in any way corroded, as this will show up as 'cold' engine. The missing cylinders on startup - you might have leaky injector/s which will bleed into the cylinder when the motor is stopped. Disconnect the coil/computer, pull the plugs and crank it over to see what comes out. The bucking when going onto power is more likely the opposite of what you have suggested - under decelleration, the injectors are cut off until revs drop to about 1500rpm (?). Perhaps your idle/enrichment switch on the throttle body is incorrectly adjusted? The high idle is most likely to be an air leak somewhere, unless you have set the idle speed stop higher.

Yeah - I wish there was a way to mount a factory fan with the RB engine. Engine driven fans can really flow some air. The best RB/Z cooling setup I've seen involved a "V8 Supercar" (Aus premier series) radiator, which is approx 100mm thick crossflow aluminium core with dimpled tubes to break up the boundary flow layer - probably about 30% better cooling than you can get with brass/copper. This was with a 2.7 RB26DETT making around 300Kw at the wheels.

Notice I only bet $5 - and Au dollars at that, so call it $3.90 US I just can't work out how you will get the airflow with a bar/plate IC AND aircon. I have a tube/fin IC, no aircon and 28 amps of fans (14" + 9"), and once the ambient temp goes past 32C the temp climbs to around 85C. We measured the air temp past the turbo at 220C, and the firewall hit 70C. And the battery got to 50C... I guess left hand drive has some advantages - but at least my shoes wont melt to the floor!

Damned impressive motor, but doesn't seem to have much of a powerband. The previously quoted 175Kw@wheels was only revved to 6500, and had massive torque at around 5k. They had to fit traction control to try and tame the tendancy to smoke the 10 inch hoosiers in 2'nd. Working back the driveline losses, I guess that motor would have had around 310Hp at the flywheel - it was, however, a 3.1lt. At Eastern Creek Raceway (Sydeny Aus) I watched him hold off a full race Porche GT3 road racer ($200K+ Au) for five laps until the front tyres went off. The car was sold on, and was later entered in a sprint event on a public road at the coast. Through the traps at only 20kph slower than a Ferrari F40.

Yep - I meant individual throttle bodies, based on the weber pattern... but in the case of the 175Kw @ wheels, the throttle bodies were custom fabricated and spaced so they gave a straight shot down the inlet port. Nice piece of work. Anyway - tell us more about this 320Hp NA motor! I checked out his web site, and no mention of specifics, and a search of the forums didn't get me anywhere either. Is this a roadrace or drag motor?

??? What are we talking about here? His RB26 install - follow the link...

??? What are we talking about here? His RB26 install - follow the link...

Nope - webers are great carbs... but throttle body injection wins hands down. As an example, two identical 3.1lt L series motors, one on 50mm webers, one on throttle body injection. The carb'd motor made 155kw at the wheels, the injection made 175kw. As for 32mm chokes, I don't believe that you can buy 32mm chokes for a 45 - 32's are the smalllest chokes for 40mm webers. However - it would be different... and probably easier to insure. Speaking of insurance... is there a policy in the world which isn't void when you have failed to disclose modifications? I've heard of someone having their insurance policy revoked because the car didn't have original wheels, and they had failed to disclose it.

I've got 5 bucks that says you won't be able to keep that sucker cool in summer

If nothing else changed, I'd be checking the fuel pressure under load. Sometimes those old regulators can't handle a high-pressure/high-flow fuel pump... Either buy a fuel pressure gauge and plumb it into the system temporarily, or hit the local dyno (surely they have fuel pressure gauges?). Find out what the base fuel pressure is supposed to be - under boost, the pressure should rise at the same rate as boost (1:1 rate), so if base is 45psi, you should see 51psi at 6psi boost. Otherwise, the new pump might be drawing a lot of current and dropping the voltage to the coil... or you could have a bad lead. A bad lead/coil tends to cause misfire under load... but it's kind of obvious when the spark goes as it's pretty violent!

The Subie diff centre is a viscous LSD - AFAIK only the competition diff's are plate type. The bolts holding the carrier to the ring gear are larger than those on the Nissan R180 ring gear , so you need to sleeve the holes in the carrier to take the smaller ring gear bolts. However - you can bolt the complete Subie diff in to a Z - you just need to change the front flange to a Nissan flange. On my setup, the stub axles were turned down from the CV flange, and a standard datsun flange was welded on. Needless to say, warpage is an issue, and getting the half shaft off the flange requires a chisel between the flanges The diff centre is O.K. Better than an open diff, but you can still get a wheel spinning quite easily around corners. A plate type sdiff is a better prospect, because you can shim the diff up to the breakaway torque you want - with the viscous centre, you are stuck with what you get. As for life expectancy - my diff develop a whine and dark brown oil after 18 months on the street behind my RB20DET.

Where can you get a complete setup for $1K? I've only seen motors for $1100+, complete kit is ~$2,200+ or $2500 for a front cut

Excessive clearance between the top of the piston and the quench area leads to detonation - the whole idea of the quench area is to cool down the end gases so they don't detonate PLUS introduce turbulence into the chamber to speed combustion. So - running a thicker head gasket with an N42 would not seem the best way to go... Yes - you can get it to work (tuning), but the part throttle economy will be worse and there is more chance of detonation.

A friend of mine ran a 2 inch SU with twin float chambers in front of a TO3, methanol "injection" in front of the carb, and approx 7.5:1 compression on the L28. It broke numerous gearboxes, ripped the front diff mount off once (taking out the handbrake assembly as well), and wore through a few R180's over the years. He hated it - wouldn't run properly in hot weather, would occasionally flood the motor, and was a general pig to keep tuned. He switched to injection as soon as programmable EFI became available.

Can you tell through the rocker cover the general area the noise is coming from? If you spend some time checking, you might find you have a lobe which "loosens up" before coming onto the opening ramp.

I'm running a stock RB20DET with a 600x230 FMIC and the boost jumped to 13psi without touching anything else. Unless the fuel tank is mostly full, it tends to light the wheels up in 1'st/2'nd on anything less than a really good road surface. Goes hard, keeps the 255Kw Clubsport and XR6T's honest, and quite frankly seems to go harder than my friends R34 GTR... although getting the Z to launch well is pretty tricky. The only downside is that it doesn't seem to like 96 RON octane fuel - It detonated on me the other day, so back to the 98 RON and poor idle quality....

20 - 30 minutes to do all the valves!! Too slow!!! That probably explains why you have noise - if you went back and checked from the start again, you would find them tight, as the head cools down quite quickly. Set them cold, and then check them hot if there are any noises. If I take longer than 5-10 mins after the engine stops, I just give up.