mjfawke

The only way the major aftermarket ECU's managed to get the RB26 ITB's to work was to use combined TPS/MAP input to overcome the idle/low speed issues (Autronic was the first, I think). Unless MegaSquirt can use TPS for low speed operation, you are going to have to convert to a single TB.

A friend of mine has dealt with a few of these, and ended up talking to NizPro here in Australia to see how they did it. If it doesn't come off easily, then drilling/tapping/puller is the standard solution. I saw one he pulled from an RB30, and even after drill/tap/oxy it was still a pain to get loose - some people get their engines very wet, and it's a bad place for rust to form.

He can't - his work blocks access to forums, and he doesn't have internet access from home. I'll try and get a detailed explanation this weekend, and hopefully he has some spare pictures as well. I doubt he wants to try and pull the front cover off the motor in the car.... then again, he has a spare RB30 block and a spare GTR head, so can at least show where the tensioners go.

Finally caught up with my friend. It seems many of the belts used for the original conversion were standard engineering belts, not automotive, and weren't heat rated. So, any automotive belt should be fine. He didn't have the part numbers, but Dayco had a 149 tooth belt, and Gates made a 100 unit run of a 151 tooth belt to suit the dual tensioner setup that he was making - the belts were made on spec from someone else's conversion, but when that fell through they ended up sorting it out with his buildup instead. There were lots of pictures taken, but I don't know if the kit was ever finalised.

Mate was away racing on the weekend.... I'll try and catch up with him this week.

Dunno - I'll ask him the details when I see him on the weekend.

I get ~10lt/100km with a 3.7:1 diff... and yes, I drive it like I stole it.

Mate of mine did some consulting work with one of the belt manufacturers in Australia while building an RB30DET (they wanted to produce a kit for the RB30DET conversion) - turns out many of the belts people use for this conversion are not heat rated for the application, and will not have a good belt life. Something to consider...

Did you check your base fuel pressure? The factory computer will try and run closed loop @ idle, so it's more likely to be a fuel system issue.

Yep - I should never have picked up that compressor Four years, and still have to be damned careful.

While cheftrd may have departed, the original question could still do with some additional info. here is a company which manufactures hot-film air-mass meters which operate at up to 8 bar pressure @ 4,800 kg/h (the 200mm tube version). They only have an operating temp of up to 80C, however, despite the sensor being mounted in an aluminium tube. As for cheftrd's question about why people ditch the MAF's - I don't know, it's not my field. I tune mainframe computers for a living, not cars. Neither did I try and claim that I was an expert in the field - I just had an issue with the statement "The AFM can't see density changes. ", which appears to have been incorrect based on available info.

Neither the Bosch automotive handbook, the Bosch Technical specifications or the SAE paper on thin-film airflow meter design which I read ~ 10 years made any mention of limitations due to air pressure. The fact that skillet has a working setup with correct AFR's after the turbo indicates that the MAF is working correctly under pressure. And here's a link to a pic of the Koenigsegg CCR engine - look where the MAF is located here.

"MAF" stands for "Mass Airflow", with the emphasis on "Mass" - not "Airflow". It works regardless of air density & temperature. Go read up on hotwire and thin-film resistor MAF sensors. Note : This does not apply to the flap-style airflow meter.

So THAT's what I needed to do... I have four - 8 years, 6 years and 2 x 1 year. I get maybe an hour a week to work on the Z

MS VirtualPC 2004 is now a free download... I'm using this to test some software under XP/SP2 while still running our SOE of XP/SP1 as the host OS.

Re. the tach, if you have a 240 with the inductive pickup on the back of the tach, just remove the existing wire from pickup and run the power feed to the ignition igniter through instead.

What error codes is the computer displaying?

That would be because the GTR injectors are also made by JECS, and have the same design flaw(s). I can buy new rail and injectors big enough to get me over 200Kw @ wheels for ~ $800.

I pulled the injectors from my RB20DET to try and solve a fuel leak which I was sure was an O-ring issue, but it turns out that three of the injectors are leaking where the fuel inlet tube enters the plastic body. New injectors are $270 Au - EACH. It turns out that most of the JECS injectors die this way, so I am now upgrading to programmable injection, new fuel rail and current injectors. So - if you have fuel staining around the injectors or can smell fuel, time to take a closer look.

If you go back and have a look at the first page....

Only the 3'rd death in Australia by Stingray in recorded history.

link to pics here Found this about the car, posted in March this year - "The car is currently running in the Gurston down hillclimb championship in the over 2000cc Marque sports class. The turbo set up that Janspeed were tyring to develope was never succesful and did not compete in a race. They always raced the car with a normally aspirated engine. The engine set up now is 3.1ltr dry sumped on throttle slide with individual injectors in the trumpets. Distributorless ignition with individual coils on the plugs. Fully mappable and programable engine management with data logging, traction control and launch control. Running through a twin plate clutch on a lightened non nissan flywheel to a 5 speed close ratio straight cut dog gearbox with interchangable ratios shoe horned into a RS240 casing( with the addition of some creative aluminium welding to make the casing larger to take the larger internals), through a non nissan prop ( I broke 3 nissan props) to a 3.1 limited slip diff. Power and torque figures are enough to put a big grin on any drivers face. Tryes are 10 inch and 11 inch wide hillclimb slicks. Brakes are 4 pot lockheed race calipers all round on 11 inch discs operated by twin master cylinders and no servo. Clutch is operated by master cylinder mounted on the pedal box inside the car and then concentric slave cylinder in the bell housing. Body has full roll cage welded into shell incorperateing rear and front suspension turrets and cross door bars. Body kit is lightwieght glass fibre and aluminium. Additional devices have been added to the car to take in the advances in aerodynamics made since the car was built in 1971/2. Current race wieght is under 1000kg with contentedly fed driver."

274mm x 26mm. Skyline R32 GTST 4-stud rotors with S13W calipers and a small spacer between the caliper and strut. Rim clearance is an issue...

And a new option for the front. R32GTST front rotors (280mmx26mm), centre hole machined out to match the 260Z/280Z hub, diameter reduced to by ~ 5mm with Hilux S13W calipers. The calipers need a ~ 4mm spacer and longer bolts. Fits behind my 14x7 "kidney bean" wheels, but not behind my 15x7 three-piece wheels. Going to check out the 16x7 panasports next.

Common problem - the drill/tap/pull is the common solution.... followed by oxy torch and more of the same. Friend of mine went through this recently - I'll ask him what the detailed options were.