Cheesecakepiebar

People will run ATF through the intake (not in the oil that I know of), but since the engine was just honed, there shouldn't be any glazing. In my experience, an engine may burn a small amount of oil during break in, but I haven't had an engine burn enough oil to produce a constant smoke. I would recommend a leak down test. If you get air coming out of the dipstick hole or oil fill, you most likely have improperly seated rings. If you get air out of the intake or exhaust (with the cylinder being tested at TDC) you have intake or exhaust valve issues. I'd try the leak down test and you can narrow down where to go from there. EDIT: I would also recommend a dry compression test followed by a wet compression test (wet = adding a small amount of oil to the cylinder). If your compression goes up significantly with the wet test, you have ring issues. If not, then your rings are fine.

This is why I love this forum. The people may seem harsh when rules are violated (or searching not done ), but when it comes down to it, some of the nicest people out there are on this forum. I love how friendly and helpful everybody is.

I haven't personally had work done at Pettersen Motorworks, but I know people who have and he comes highly recommended.

I am currently 1300 miles from my Z, which is waiting patiently with over $1000 in new parts waiting to be installed! It takes commitment not to go crazy over the next two months, knowing that I have the parts and the car and can't combine or even see them. I have 19 credit hours of engineering classes and intermittent work, and seem to spend all of my "spare" money on my Z (who needs food anyway? ). I'm not that committed, but the Z is such a fun money pit!

There is lots of information to be found by searching. I'd recommend browsing the Gen III/Gen IV engine forums as well. Here are a couple of links off the top of my head: Jags That Run LS1 Swap John's Cars V8 Swap Just to clarify: Any kit that works for an LS1 will work for any 4th gen engine.

It sounds like the sensor to me too. I had to pull off the thermostat housing and when I put it back on the temp gauge didn't work at all. I tried cleaning the connections with no results. A new sensor fixed the problem.

It is actually surprising the kind of axial forces that thin walled cylinders can handle. The best example is seen by standing on an empty soda can.

That's a clean looking car. What are your plans for it? I see that you're in New Mexico - where about?

My 1985 Ford pickup has a clutch interlock, so I don't know when they first started being used. Regardless, the s30's didn't have them.

I am guessing that the link was intended to go to this car. It's the only 240Z currently for sale on ebay in CA. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Datsun-240z-original-California-nissan-z_W0QQitemZ230407168500QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item35a55661f4#ht_924wt_1165

Before everybody gets on you for ignoring forum rules, please use proper punctuation. The most important question is what engine do you want the manifolds for?

"strange noise" doesn't help much in diagnosing problems. Is there any way you can post a video of the noise on youtube?

lol

I hope there's a police report. If so the person labeled as "at fault" on the police report is 100% at fault. I have never heard of somebody being 40% at fault... Good luck. I hope you can get it all figured out, but it is sounding like you may need to get a lawyer.

I have a friend with a mustang who learned that lesson long ago...

The T5 itself will work if you can find a bell housing to fit the engine's bolt pattern.

I agree, but it's just that NIIK had already posted a new response with good grammar before Titus posted his response bashing NIIK's bad grammar... EDIT: by "on my own terms" I meant "visit my mother-in-law"

This is half the reason I don't post much... If I wanted a new one ripped, I'd prefer to have it done on my terms.

This may merit further investigation: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1468317391.html If you google the phone number it comes back with an address. It might be worth a drive by to check it out, just in case. Good luck getting your car back!

Congrats!

I'm having some trouble finding a coupon. Do you think you could point me in the right direction?

Great car! BTW, what's the story behind those sweet carbon fiber kick panels? I'm from Oroville and always seem to find my way up the Feather River Canyon and on over to Lake Almanor. I love the whole Susanville area!

New plans, new car! I just purchased this car for $900. It is much more complete than my other Z. It has 154,xxx original, documented miles on it and I am the 3rd owner. I got complete records with the car dating back to its original purchase. I am surprised at how complete it is. It has the original tire inflater, original window sticker from 1978, and even the owner's manual and documentation! This car will be a much better candidate for a V8 swap. I also changed my plans for the V8 swap. I decided that I am only going to do this car once, so I better do it right. I now am saving up for a LS1 and a T56, which will go in the car instead of a 5.3L and a 4L60E. I am selling my "other Z" to a friend here at college with me, which is good since I will still get to drive it from time to time.

I suppose I should post an actual photo of my car as it is now...

I recently picked up my first Z. It's a 1975 280z with very little rust (New Mexico car). It is vin #1684, which really surprised me. I plan on swapping in a Gen IV 5.3L GM engine. Since I am stuck at school without the ability to begin the swap, I have been trying to decide on what paint scheme I want. I have tentatively decided on this scheme: I plan on doing the same paint that I did on my 1972 Kawasaki H2: Input and/or suggestions are welcomed and requested. I will try to keep the thread alive as I work on the car.