[At CMP with the 13 inch floating rotor set up]

Did you get the beefed up version? After seeing your breakage, I've been thinking of doing the same.

 

 

These are the stubs that use the 280z spline pattern. Ross says below 500 hp these are good. Since I don't drag race the car and I know what I did to break the old one, I think I'll be good.

 

There is a very harsh gator at CMP that I hit with my left rear while hanging it out exiting a turn. I should have lifted when I hit the gator but did not. I know the hop from the gator on the left rear under power snapped the stub axel.

[At CMP with the 13 inch floating rotor set up]

Thanks for the heads up Tom. When I was putting the rotor hat back on the new stub axel I found the inner bore had been deformed by the broken stub axel. Dave is shipping me a new rotor hat next week. Hopefully that is the last of it.

[At CMP with the 13 inch floating rotor set up]

I ordered these Monday and they arrived Thursday. Installed on Friday afternoon. Thanks Ross.

 

 

 

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=62

[Custom 240z small parts (trim panel, tail light etc) interest?]

I would be all over a set of CF interior pannels. Not trying to hyjack your thread but these guys do offer the stock interior parts.

 

http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html

[Arizona Zcar Coilover wheel backspacing]

275 40 front and 315 35 rear

[Arizona Zcar Coilover wheel backspacing]

CCW will know what you need. I'm running 17x10 and 17x12 and I went with there reccomended wheel offset. They fit perfectly.

[At CMP with the 13 inch floating rotor set up]

Thanks Jon, That does look like it would cure the knock back issue. It also looks expensive. I would bet with enough searching I could find a BMW hat and rotor that would work on this set up.

[LS1 and radiator question. Not been answered.]

call Ron Davis and ask. I've talked to those guys a couple of times and they have been very helpful.

[At CMP with the 13 inch floating rotor set up]

I went to the pit out worker before I left and thanked him several times and asked that he pass along my thanks to the corner workers.

[At CMP with the 13 inch floating rotor set up]

I was at CMP Friday to try out the new set up. I started easy braking early and hard. As the day went on I gained confidence in the brakes and eventually ran a few hard laps with out any fad. I had a slight issue that John Tedder helped me identify as pad knock back but no fade.

 

 

Toward the end of the day trying to chase down a porsche cup car (fat chance) the brakes finally gave up and I had a strange vibration. The rear pads were gone. Replaced the pads and went back out. I was stopped at pit out and asked if I had fixed the rear wheel. Back to the pits and found this.

 

 

Put the car on the trailer and came home. Thanks John, Tom and Quinten. John, If you had stayed we could have used duct tape and zip ties to fix this but I'm not qualifed with those materials. Tom, I'm ordering some parts from Ross.

 

This is what I found when the rear came apart.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/gallery/image/23527-stub/

[4" thick C&R radiator too thick for the street?]

In my LT-1 240 Z I use a 4 inch thick c and r radiator. I've ran it on the street and track with no issues. The car will run all day on the track with no temp issues and I have never had a problem on the street with it.

[Rear fender areas cut too much by previous owner, what to do?]

Yep I've used these guys in the past with good results.

 

http://zbarn.com/zbarn3.htm

[Rear fender areas cut too much by previous owner, what to do?]

If you want to keep the flaired look, I'd put some IMSA flairs or the reaction research flairs on that. It would cover what has been hacked. Your other option is to get a stock rear quarter and start over. I doubt ZG flairs would cover that but ZGs may be an option also.

[Good bye L28 hello LQ9!]

LQ-9? I'm interested! Do you have the motor yet?

[Rear wheel bearings]

The outer bearing presses on the axel. I can usually use a block of wood and a hammer to get the axel back in the housing with the new bearing installed.

[LS1 Z Cruised 1875 Miles]

What's the story?

[Rear wheel bearings]

Use a long screw driver, rod , punch, drift or similar. Slide the space to one side and beat on the bearing. I'm assuming you will not be reuseing it anyway. The bearing will come out, remove the outer race, then do the inner bearing.

[Rear wheel bearings]

If you mean how to get the outer bearing out of the strut housing, Beat it. I've got a big drift I use to bang on that sort of thing. If you have access to a press, that will work also.

[1974 Nissan Skyline C110 / Datsun 240K]

I Love it. Thanks for the pics. Very nice ride.

[I thought I hade a catostrophic failure]

I've broken a few also. Ended up replaceing the lifters (originals with unknown mileage) and have not broken any since.

[The Worthy Advice Thread-Give us all some]

Never trust personal advice given on a car forum.

[S30 unibody made of composites...]

I love that Pug also. That is one bad ride!

[S30 unibody made of composites...]

How about using these parts instead of the stock shaped parts.

 

http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/pd1751866/IMSA__REAR_FENDER_FLARES_

[WTB: metal C-pillar "240z" emblem, series 1]

If you are looking for new, try these.

 

http://www.datsunrestore.com/photo3.html

 

[anyone have trouble removing a grant hub adapter?]

Yes you need a steering wheel puller. Don't beat on it.