jbc3

Looking for a set of R230 output shafts. Anyone familiar with a decent (cheap) source? Of course I wouldn't mind an entire differential if I can't find output shafts. Also, I pulled the rear off and tried to remove the good output shaft, in hopes to drive out the broken shaft and I got nowhere. Anyone have a trick to get these things out? Why am I asking??? Well, the first day at the track this year with a new set of slicks and a fresh VHT spray down and one of my output shafts was quite unhappy. Jody

You can't leave the compressor in the stock location, the new engine mount will be there. The stock AC system inside my car is stock, but I just have a switch that engages my compressor to turn it on and off. I used an online supplier for the AC lines and had them sent non crimped. You need to lay the lines out and make sure the angled fittings are clocked correctly on the hoses, mark them and have someone carefully crimp them. My local auto parts shop has a crimper for the AC lines. Aberdeen is about 1.5 hrs away. I'm in Damascus. Jody

The video doesn't show the bracket like I remember... Here is a picture. It also isn't that great, but you get the idea of where it will need to be. Jody

I made a template out of cardboard to relocate the AC Compressor to the driver side up high. Then I cut out a piece of aluminum, tapped the holes and mounted the plate. It also required a pulley mounted on the aluminum plate. Works great. It can be seen in this video Where in Maryland are you? http://videos.streetfire.net/video/LT1-280Z-new-headcam-swap_105695.htm Jody

The guys running 75&80 are saying that they are still opening 4/3. They have had some issues, but they are going ahead full tilt. The track still has alot of farm land around, but no where like it used to be. The track is owned by the same person, but there a group of people running it for him. http://www.75-80dragway.com/ Jody

The other side of the beltway from you. Not much on the club meetings either, but the old drag strip 75 & 80 that closed a couple of years ago is re-opening in a couple of weeks, so you will see my blue 280 there. Jody

I welded fittings on the ends of my fuel rails. I ran teflon braided 1/2" lines everywhere and after the fp regulator my line was split wit a 90 degree fitting and into each rail.... if you insist on using the quick connect fuel rail fittings that convert to AN, look at these 2 on Summit. Jody http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS-640860&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS-640850&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Here's a picture of my 295's. 295/50/16 Jody

There are many opinions both ways, but you will be happy with the LT1. I stayed with the LT1 because I was familiar with it and the programing and I already had the performance parts.

I liked the shaved front and rear also, but worried about the safety (some), so I welded roll bar tubing behind the rear and across the front. It probably is not as safe as real bumpers, but I am sure it will help if needed. The rear section is between the gas tank and rear sheet metal and welded to the bumper mount section. The front section, I took the bumper mount sections and cut them so I could weld the tubing to them and bolt in.

Unless you are using something different... you will need to grind the S12 mounts. I suppose you could do the brake mounts, but putting it on a machine would be a little tough. You will be able to tell as soon as you mock it up. Jody

Just like anything else when adapting things like this, measure the location of the brakes in relationship to your rotor and take what it takes off of the brake mounts to center them on the rotor. Now I will admit that using new rotors, the opening of the s12's were actually just a little to small, so I actually put my brake pads on a sander and took off what it took to make it fit... a few thousanths each. I also had to clearance the opening of the brakes because the rotors are quite large. Both of them were actually very different, so you will need to get in and do what it takes. I suspect that normal rotor wear will most likely clearance the opening so the next time I won't need to clearance the brakes, or you could have them taken sown slightly. Do I claim to be an expert... no, but so far the brakes do quite well. Good luck, Jody

I run front 3rd generation Camaro rotor/hub, changed the outer bearings and then offset s12's brake pads on the front. I had to get custom bearing seals. I modified the rear '95 Camaro brake base and rear brakes. I just made a few measurements and modified it all to make it work. I have no detail or measurements. Some of this info is from a few years ago.....search. Jody

It is a shame that it has come to this. Hopefully you have pictures, if not, contact the insurance company and find out where she got her estimates and hopefully they kept pictures. Bottom line, go prepared, but at the time of the incident, you were insured and the insurance agency should be representing you. My daughter had a fender bender a couple of years ago. Heavy stop and go traffic on the main highway near home. 5 - 10 mph at most. Someone changed lanes abruptly and the car in front of her stopped short and she bumped the lady. My daughter was driving an Audi TT and cracked her front plastic bumper cover, but the lady's bumper received $59.00 of damage. $59 is a scuff of paint that the body shop buffed out. The lady that was hit then claimed that she had serious back and neck injuries! My insurance company was awsome, they said that they love these kind of BS claims. They went after the lady and the injuries suddenly just "went away". People are rediculous as far as their claims and they think that these type of incidents are their tickets to riches.

I had my steel driveshaft made at Inland Empire. They do aluminum driveshafts. http://www.iedls.com/driveshafts.html The only problem I had with the driveshaft was I twisted the splines in the slip yoke. When I got it repaired and looked closely at the slip yoke, it was unmarked and cheap. I replaced it with a spicer slip yoke and I have not had a problem since. Make sure you specify the parts. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105405

I received the booster from RockAuto (they deliver fast) and went to install it last night and found the real cause of the problem. As I separated the master cylinder, about an ounce of brake fluid poured out of the booster. So I ordered a master cylinder, it'll be here tomorrow. Thinking back: The day of Mike Kelly's shindig I noticed the level of the brake fluid to the front brakes was a little low. I thought that it was from the S12 caliper volume as the brakes were wearing down some. So I just added some fluid and went about my business... silly me. I bought the 10" booster after reading some old posts saying that the larger booster will fit in the 280's. Well... it does fit, but just barely. Less than 1/8" at most clearance with the clutch master cylinder and it also took re-routing of some of the brake lines, but the fun was just getting the damn thing in place.... My AC lines run in the same area. If all goes well, I'll be driving it again tomorrow. Jody

I just ordered the larger, 10", booster from RockAuto. 118.79 and $7 to ship. Hopefully that is all that is wrong. 30 year old parts.... and I am "wondering why" there was a failure Jody

I was driving to work this morning. All was good and while at a stop sign, suddenly the brake pedal got hard and basically the power brakes were gone. Major pressure on the pedal still stopped the car. I babied it the last couple of blocks to work and checked the vacuum lines, check valve and fluid levels and all was good, but still no power brakes. I pulled the vacuum line apart at the check valve and put a shop vac on it and still no power brakes. I even bled the brakes and still no power brakes. I have never had power brakes die suddenly like this. Does this sound like the "reaction disk" failure or is this a dead booster?

I painted my air dam this weekend. I think it looks pretty good. (You guys don't get to see the close-up yet, I got a run that needs to be fixed) Jody

I guess I should have take a picture from above also. The air ducts are IN FRONT of the radiator and deflect the air right into the front of the radiator. The air dam is tight to the bottom of the radiator support so nothing gets past the radiator. I am still using the factory splash pan also. It is now running a little cooler. I have always been running a small tubular support (about 12") that mated to the lower part of the Urethane air dam to prevent it from collapsing at speed. (you can see the scrape marks in the urethane air dam where the tubular support is behind) The lower air dam with the vents attach to the tubular support, but also clips under the lower lip of the urethane air dam and extends out to the brake duct openings to add much more to the width of support. Jody

There is a local plastic supplier near me, http://www.piedmontplastics.com . The 4'x8' sheet that I bought cost less than $80. It measures .125, but is actually rated 1/16". I rough cut it with a circular saw, trim it close with a wizzer and then shape curves with a grinder and/or sander. I use a heat gun to mold it. Rivets and 3M adhesive tape work great to secure it. I am going to leave the rivets on the air scoops under the car, but I will eventually replace the rivets on the front air dam with fender liner plastic tabs. The plastic liner tabs should paint just fine. I don't claim to be an expert on molding this stuff. I learned about Kydex from a friend that I used to work with. He makes knives and uses Kydex to make some unbelievable knife sheaths. He also used it to make an unbelievable custom interior in another friend's Vette. (I wish he still lived near me) He uses a heat gun, clamps and molds made from scrap wood. The best part is if your molded shape doesn't look right, re-heat it and try again. Lastly, heavy welding gloves or fireplace gloves really help you hold your shapes as they cool. Jody

I cut, molded and mounted the kydex this weekend. The added air scoops under the air dam can't really be seen, but the car ran a little cooler on the ride to and from work.

Like all the rest of you, I have plenty of personal sting stories... from tormenting nests on purpose as a kid to accidentally running over a yellow jacket nest with the mower.... BUT, 4 weeks ago a friend of mine was working in his garden, like he did all the time, and somehow was stung by a couple of bees. You think no big deal, but he is highly allergic, so he yelled for his wife and she grabbed the epi-pen and ran out to him to give him the shot. He was already having trouble breathing. She hit him with the shot and after giving him the shot, he did not seem to respond well. She called the ambulance and by the time they got there he was gone. Turns out the epi-pen was expired! Makes you think.

Thanks for the comments/compliments... I spent a few more minutes editing some driving lights onto the front. The perspective of these lights is off a little, but you can get the idea. Before the comments, I was not thinking of putting lights like these on. I am still not sure. Today I did pick up a sheet of Kydex, so hopefully I'll get a chance to start playing with it over the near future. Jody

My opinion... The slicks can cause more damage due to the better traction issue... The Drag radials don't stick as well but can still cause issues due to the traction, but the drag radials have been known to cause wheel hop if they break loose which can be way more damaging. If that is noticed, never try and drive through the wheel hop. There are plenty of people that have gotten unbelievable short times with the MT Drag radials. It is very nice to put them on at home and not have to worry about changing tires at the track. Bottom line If you really don't want to break something... don't drag race (I trailer the car to the track. The one time I drove the car and raced, I broke something and needed to hitch a ride home and get the trailer.) Jody