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The 5-6 countershaft is splined the entire length. You can see the splines in your picture. There is no way to install this wrong. You can not get the snap rings on if it is not on far enough. Besides, the mainshaft is also splined the entire length where the countershaft goes... Newer transmissions (ones with less than 10K on them you usually have to use a puller to get it off. Older transmissions, it will slip right off. If the main shaft is shot or the teeth on the 5-6 countershaft are shot, the same thing could happen also, but I think you would notice. If the teeth in the countershaft broke off cleanly, they would not fall out into the transmission. They would ride in between the 2 shafts and fall out when you pulled it apart. (unless the PO is not fully disclosing what he found when he pulled it apart) Personally, I'd pull it out and pull the tailshaft off and run it through it's paces with something on each end where you could put some torque on it so you can see the problem. DS yoke on one end and a old clutch disk on the other end. It will be obvious. Jody Here is a picture of a real magnet mess !!!!

The 5/6 shaft end may be shot. To add to the problem the 1-4 countershaft may also be toast, since they interlock. The main shaft holds 1-3 gears and synchros and in the tail, it holds the 5/6 countershaft. (remember 4th is also your output shaft) The 1-4 countershaft (driven gear as it's called in the manuals) has a splined opening that the 5/6 gear shaft locks into. If that spline is damaged, it will act just as you describe. If that is the problem, you are looking at major $$$ for a repair. I think the 1-4 countershaft is like 1100.00. I actually have a spare 5-6 shaft and 5-6 countershaft. Reverse is on the main shaft, so if your problem is the 5-6 shaft end, reverse will probably still work. By the way, I think I can get 130mph in 4th. Good luck, and I hope this is not what you find. Jody

Cut the stock mounts out (tranny mount ears). 1 minor dent is a must, Clearance where the back-up light plug goes in on the passenger side. The other is only if you plan on taking the bellhousing off while the engine is in the car; on the passenger tunnel where the second from the top bellhousing bolt goes in. Otherwise I don't believe I did anything else except open the shifter hole up a little. Jody

I have no idea for the front hubs... but I suspect that there is something out there. I will tell you that on my 96 Z28, I ran a Moser 9" rear with a Detroit Locker and I wanted to keep the ABS. I actually used a stock timing gear and had it machined to fit the front slip yoke of my driveshaft for a press fit. The number of teeth on it was nearly a perfect match to the number of teeth on the stock ring gear reluctor divided by the 4.10 gears I was running. It also required a small amount of clearancing to get the timing gear to slide completely onto the yoke and butt against the end of the yoke tightly. Then I relocated the stock rear ABS sensor to a bracket that I mounted on the transmission mount so it was about 1/8" away from this timing gear. It worked perfectly. Jody

Hmmm, my R230 has a 6 bolt flange. Jody

As it turns out my 280Z is significantly a Camaro also Motor Trans Shift boot Wiring harness/computer/relays Seats Seat belts wheels Tires Brakes Rear view mirror (with lights) Cooling fans half the gas pedal And probably a bunch of misc parts, bolts etc... Many of the people on this site are Datsun/Nissan people who came over to the Chevy power.... Others are die hard Chevy people who were looking for a light, cool, pre-emissions platform to make into a Chevy.... that would be me. It's all good.

I went out and bought myself an early x-mas present last week. It's a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700 and it only had 514 miles on it. It's in great shape, 2500lb Warn winch and a plow. I was iffy on buying an automatic, but after driving a friend's 2006 SP 700, I was sold. It's a blast! I had it over my friend's house and (big surprise) we were drag racing the ATV's within 15 minutes It easily burys the 60 mph speedo and is dead nuts even with his 2006 in a drag race. I know there are faster and more nimble ATV's out there, but for the mountian hunting and messing around I like to do, it's perfect... plus No more pushing the snow shovel around. Jody

651-644-6811

I played with different tubing and found that the tube must fit tight in the jig, or it will kink. 1 5/8 tubing is tight in the 1 1/4 pipe jig. The HF bender just doesn't come with a jig that will work with 1 3/4" tubing. As far as the purpose of the couplings, they just help spread the load so the tube doesn't dent on the rollers. Moving the rollers in or out didn't matter, the tubing still dented without the couplings. Jody

MAS does not have an on line cataloc, you have to dall them and get one sent to you (1984 catalog!). As far as the tighter arch, those flares are flexable (until you get them mounted) and you can make them easily fit the stock curve of the wheel well. Jody

I used the S&S 5205 headers and I bought them uncoated. The headers basically fit, but the flange on the driver side hit the bellhousing where the slave cylinder of the T56 is and the passenger side exited close to the bend of the floor pan where my fuel lines are. I cut both collectors off at about a 30 degree angle. Then I rotated the flange around until they fit. Then the flanges were tig welded back on at the right angle and the headers sent back to be recoated. The ones on my car don't hang down that far, but my car is not slammed. LT1/T56 - JTR mounts and I used the spacers under the front cross member. The LT1 has Angled plugs and I use a 5/8" offset wrench to tighten 1,2,7 and 8. The standard plug wrench doesn't fit. I suppose I could cut one up to work, but the offset box wrench works just fine.

I have rebuilt about 10 T56 trannys in my garage. It is not that hard. D&D performance ( http://www.ddperformance.com/ ) sells bearing and synchro kits. They also sell a T56 repair manual. The "locking" in 4th is not that uncommon. There are 3 shift detent clips in the synchro that can bend and break off. If one breaks off it can jam up the transmission and lock it in gear. I have seen several, including one of mine, do the same thing. The clips are about $2 each, but the whole tranny has to come apart to get to them. As far as specialty tools, I have part of a Kent-Moore puller that I used threaded rod and a balancer puller piece to make work and a small press with several different sized bearing puller attachments. Picture of the modified Kent Moore puller http://jodyc.fbody.com/bobs-tranny/kent%20moore%20tool%20and%20puller.jpg Here is a link to the T-56 repair manual .... FREE of charge It's large so it will take some time to download. http://jodyc.fbody.com/T56-manual/T56_service_manual.pdf Here are a few pics of a trashed T-56! He lost all of his detent clips and the tranny managed to go into 2 gears at once... transmissions don't like that very much...this one was never rebuilt. http://jodyc.fbody.com/Davestranny/ Jody

Yup... sitting in a box collecting dust.

I looked at the catalog tonight and they don't have pictures of any the actual fender flares for the Z's. They do have 2 types listed. I believe the ones I got were the Type II's. The type III's are the IMSA style flares. The wheels I have are the stock 4th gen F-body wheels and they are 8 1/2" wide. As far as the fronts, I put 255-50-16's on the car and they fit under the flare with the front flares mocked up (taped on), but because I have such a large offset on the wheels and I use billet adaptors, as soon as I turn the steering wheel, the tires would hit the front part of the fender. That is one of the reasons I did not install the front flares. I ended up with 215-50-16's on the front and they don't clear by much when I turn the steering wheel. My set-up is different than any other wheel/brake combination that I have ever seen. I think that with the right set-up you could get a big tire under the front. Mock up the flares and a set of wheels and tires and see what you can fit under your fender. Personally I wouldn't order wheels and tires first.

Follow this link and check out the flares on my car. The info on vendor and price is in the thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116398

The catalog is at home, I'll look tonight and scan the page in and post it. Wait until you see the 1984 catalog.... it's a hoot! The flares will take a little work to get on, but no more than any other ones out there.... you can't beat the price! Jody

I am running the R230 3.69 gears and with the torque this motor has, it's more than fine. I wish I knew (z-car rookie mistake) the rear opening was not centered to the wheel positioning when I put the flares on. At some point I may modify the front of the wheel well to give the wheels a more centered appearance.

No they are not BUG flares. They are fiberglass flares from a company called MAS Racing Products. 2288 University Ave St. Paul MN 55114 651-644-6811 Don't bother looking for a web site, they don't have one. As a matter of fact, last year they sent me a catalog that was printed in 1984 (that is NO TYPO). Even more unbelievable, they had a bunch of parts that they were still selling at 1984 prices, including these flares! I bought flares for the front also and never installed them. I liked the way the car looked with just the rears flared. ( someone want to buy some front flares? ) With the 255-50-16's the car sat almost level, front to back. These tires really did give it quite a rake. Jody

I needed new rear tires and previously the widest 16" street tire I was able to find was a 255-50-16. (26" tall and 9.8 wide) I have run 305-40-16 M&H drag tires before on the car, but I wanted a wider street tire. I found some 295-50-16 BFG radial TA tires. Unfortunately they are 27.6" tall, but they have 11.5" of tread. After taking some measurements, I got them. Here are a few pictures of the car with these monsters on it. Fortunately the car is very stiff in the rear... I've driven over a number of rough roads and railroad tracks, and no rubbing yet I'm sure it isn't missing by much, but so far so good. The fronts are 215-50-16's and they are the tallest tire I can put on the front of the car because of the spacers and offset of the f-body wheels, the tires just barely clear the front of the wheel well on turns. Jody

Follow-up on my earlier post reference the Grease seal needed to install a 3rd gen f-body hub/rotor on a 280Z front spindle. Tiger Seal & Gasket Mfg Co. Inc. 2522 Connecticut Ave Kenner, LA 70062 504-464-0031 R-2 Seal 48 x 65 x 7 $ 5.75 each Jody

Michaael, Its been a long time since I did the front rotors, but the inner bearing is exactly the same between the 3rd gen f-body and the 280Z. The outer bearing is one size smaller on the Datsun. The bearing and race was like $10. (A3 and A2 I believe) As far as the seal, I measured the seal surface and the inner diameter of the hub. Then I went to Tigerseal.com, downloaded their grease seal chart and they have one that matches. It was not one that he kept on the shelf, but I had it in less than a week. It has been on the car for over a year and I have had no issues at all. The seals were about $7 each. I should have ordered more than 2 when I did it at first, but I wasn't sure they were going to work. Then I never went back and ordered more.. Jody

Bart, It's been a long time since I had the BLM ranges explained to me, but it has to do with the range that the BLM learning is done. By raising the BLM learning range, you are putting this range in a better area, where there is less disturbance from the lumpy cam idle and low end RPMs. By moving the idle to open loop top 1200RPMs, there is no "learning" done below 1200 anyway, but as soon as the motor goes into closed loop >1200 it is pushed into the meat of the learning range and could cause the BLM's to push dramatically right as the car moves back into closed loop.. causing it to stumble as it transitions into closed loop. So, by pushing up the range, it will still allow the computer to make adjustments, but will keep it from trying to make those drastic turbulent air adjustments. You should see a smooth transition.

I added some 1/4" spacers between the Mustache bar and the rear. Jody

I run an open loop idle (have been for years). It is especially effective when you have a larger cam. since the overlap causes reverb in the intake and the BLM's go out of whack. It keeps the BLMs even at 128 at idle. Throw Datamaster on and take a look at your In LT1-edit, Go to the FUEL section the WOT and drop the WOT setting below 1200 RPMs to 0. It also helps to reset your BLM ranges up to 1250, 1600 and 2100. Save your file and reload. I am not sure how to do it in Tunercat. I have an open LT1-edit, so if you need your file edited, let me know. Jody

I have the exact same problem with my wheels and spacers. Cut the fender or get smaller tires. I got smaller tires. Jody