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Posts posted by e_racer1999
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Nice video. Also love the music choices
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Excellent thread. Bookmarked.
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Man, just saw it was MS1. Sorry bro. Had you thought about just getting an in-radiator thermo switch?
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I must say I like the way it looks. Hopefully you are using a relatively large gauge for your power/switch/ground wires. I would imagine 12 ga would be more than sufficient.
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Yes, and I'm not sure what the power-on and trigger values are.
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FIdle WILL power your relay. I believe it's one of the few (if not the only) port that doesn't require a transistor to directly control a relay.
Note that the LEDs, FIdle and IAC1,2 outputs already have transistors capable of conducting considerable current (check the transistor datasheets to be sure they are sufficient for your application). The LED(s) can be removed and the LED holes on the PCB can be connected to a spare DB37 port. If you use the LED connections, note that you will bypass the current limiting resistor. Be SURE your device limits current itself (i.e., that it has a resistance of 50 or more Ohms). If it doesn't, you will have to add a resistor in series with the device. You connect the device (relay, etc.) to the LED hole closest the DB9 connector (which you can jumper to a spare pin on the DB37 to route it externally).yadda yadda yadda
Note that the FIdle circuit on the relay board is limited to 1.1 Amps by the polyfuse. The relay is capable of handling much more current, but the traces on the relay board are NOT. If you wish to use the FIdle relay, do not use it to drive a device that requires more than 1.1 Amps (though you can use it to drive a second relay and control much more current - like an electric fan relay)
Electric Cooling Fan Control Another example is electric electric cooling fan control. We will turn it on 180°F and off at 170°F, using the relay board FIdle output to control a separate cooling fan relay (the traces on the relay board may not have enough current capacity to control your fan directly):
* FIdle (PM2)
o Port PM2, FIdle enabled
o variable = coolant > threshold = 180, hysteresis = 10,
o AND
o variable = rpm > threshold = 450, hysteresis = 10, (fan will not run while cranking - you can add any second condition that works for you, of course)
o Power-on value = 0
o Trigger value = 1
Of course you can change the conditions to suit your vehicle.
Note that changing the FIdle port settings (PM2) does not affect the operation of the stepper IAC settings and ports. You can still use the IAC stepper functions for controlling idle speed during warm-up (just select one of the stepper options for idle control).
Note that the settings will depend on whether you have an NC (normally closed) or NO (normally open) relay, so you must check that the fan works as you think it should.
Other conditions could be used to drive a nitrous solenoid, a shift light, or a water injection system, for example.
This won't cover every condition people can think of, but it should be easy for people to add more code for custom applications.
And yes, it's pin 30.
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Those break all the time. Your specs seem correct. What I do is just take one with me to the hardware store. They usually have the thread checkers and comparing lengths is as easy as it gets.
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Sorry for the lack of update. I have yet to get the motor in the car (going to put it in this weekend hopefully so I can start mocking stuff up and get the IC piping and exhaust fabbed up, as well as get the placing of everything in the engine bay figured out). As for the lines, I was thinking something exactly as Bob is describing; since it's on the "cold" side of the engine I should have ample space to run the lines without interference.
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I personally would use a body filler (this is actually what it's intended for) then use a high build primer. Sanding in between, of course.
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"Stock" is a loaded word. Is it a Nissan part? Exedy? It's very difficult to determine how much a used clutch will hold, but the brand of the clutch disk and pressure plate will probably have some bearing on how grippy it will be.
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Cam - hit me up. I have a complete 280ZX intake (sans fuel rail and cold start injector) I'll get you for cheap. Text me (David has my number).
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I sold mine for $300 locally. They had Cooper tires with 85% tread. Mine were Shelby GT branded.
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From what I have heard and from other's experience, 300 is the spring rate threshold. You should be good.
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I'm very close to dropping the motor in, so soon I will be able to take measurements and test fit in the engine bay. I've got the battery tray 90% out; decided to cut and grind vs drill out spot welds because I don't have a 90* drill attachment. Took a couple measurements and it looks like it will baaarely fit in the battery location. Will post results.
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No prob! Glad to see it's coming together!
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^Agreed. Whoever told the guy that it was full carbon fiber got one over on him. I've seen enough DI-NOC to know the difference.
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as long as the race isn't through the sewers of Turin or around the world's tiniest autocross, they've got the edge.
I LOL'd
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they dont make a direct bolt on B.R.E. air dam for the 280z... so Im going to have to make it fit anyway.
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1569
Description:To all of our 260Z & 280Z owners who have asked for a BRE-Style Air Dam for their Z's, thanks for your patience, your wait is over! This impressive hand-laid fiberglass air dam was designed to match the look of the early Z BRE-Racing style body parts, and attach directly to your stock front valance. The air ducts were designed to flow towards the front brakes for cooling, and are ready to accept your custom ducting for racing-type close-directed brake cooling flow if you choose. Comes with protective gel-coat, ready for prep and paint. We hope to have an installed image soon!
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For the air dam, make sure you get the one for your car, since the early one won't directly bolt on.
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I dont see the difference in engines 0_0
I know, right? Maybe by "V12" they meant "Valves12"
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Please stop that...
OK!
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The Primadona Z looks FANTASTIC! I would drive it in a heart beat.
I agree.
I wouldn't do it to a Z, but man, MAD respect for them.
Have you seen the Primadonna Z32? Super nice, as well.
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How do you know that those ld-rods are cast and not forged like the gas-rods?
Those ld-rods have to handle great forces in a low rpm and the piston is also much more heavier than the ones in a gas engine. I would say that those ld-rods are stronger than gas-rods.
But that is just my opinion and I have those ld-rods in my N42 L28 with custom forged pistons.
The R/S ratio is now 1,77.
For one I don't KNOW that the rods are cast, I just thought I read that they were cast, hence the If I Recall Correctly. Also IIRC, Nissan forged the rods because it was more expensive at the time to cast for some reason. I could be way off base, but that's how it goes when I think I think I read something somewhere
looking fo maps
in MegaSquirt
Posted
You can get maps for free from AAA.
Oh wait.... Did you see the map-sharing thread that's stickied in the Megasquirt forum?