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e_racer1999

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Posts posted by e_racer1999

  1. Here's a rundown - Looks like a generic eBay T3 turbo with an internal wastegate turbine housing. The internal wastegate was wither not installed or removed. Gasket between turbine and downpipe is easy; eBay for generic 5-bolt T3. The "Blow off valve" you have is actually an external wastegate, and connects to the small pipe off the downpipe flange. Just replace the dinged pipe; maybe $35 at a good exhaust shop.

     

    I did a write-up on another site for people new to turbochargers; check it out: http://www.sdrev.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8533

  2. No input on the adapter from me, but couldn't you just return to MSA? That's what we did when we got ours and they were the wrong gender; we were just out a few bucks shipping. The cost of the correct ones are nearly half the price, so a few bucks couldn't hurt.

     

    The part numbers for the Earls stuff we got is:

     

    2x 592032 http://www.holley.com/592032ERL.asp

    2x 63010110 http://www.holley.com/63010110ERL.asp

     

    This setup worked perfect for us.

  3. Could be an ignition switch issue. And yes, both "+" and "-" on the coil should be testing as "+" when hooked to the ground. The "+" and "-" are relative.

     

    When we were wiring up the race car we noticed that the wire for starting ignition power was separate from running ignition power. Testing the ignition switch is pretty easy with a multimeter. If all else fails, it's at least worth checking.

  4. I was reading on a site that was basically debunking the HUGE gains you see with these. Granted it was on a Honda, but they were saying more gains were from the N2O making it to the intake than actually cooling. The tests also showed that marginal ingestion of CO2 greatly REDUCED performance (pretty obvious when you consider the science behind it). Let me find the link...

     

    Here: http://www.cryofuzion.com/spraybar.htm

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