e_racer1999
-
Posts
641 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by e_racer1999
-
-
I saw it on eBay too. They wanted $99,000 for it if I remember correctly. It was in Florida, as well. Looks pretty retarded, in my honest opinion.
That was a different one. A "wannabe" Primadonna Z.
A LOT of work went into the Primadonna Zs (3 I believe).
-
It doesn't make a bit of difference guys... Dendei's gone, remember? The Balls are inert...
CamH has a nice and spiffy Al dash.
-
I'll just leave this here:
-
At first i thought it might be real but after all the evidence to light there is no way. I posted on there we dont need a engine shot a under body shot will suffice from the floor pans to hey the oil pan and we will know. I mean a 250gto sells for 6-10 million how much would a body be....2 1.5million alone. Then lets figure in a crashed 365? Then labor to do the swap? I think this guy has been living around artards for so long he tells them 365 because hey...some of the lines match a s30. When in fact if the dude was just like hey check out my 30,000 replica people would still like it. I love 250 gtos clones and all.
Couldn't agree more.
-
IIRC the rods are cast, not forged like the gas L6. Plus, try weighing them and be prepared to poop your undies.
-
It'd be better if the DI-NOC matched better. IMO looks cheesy.
-
Definitive answer - It's an S30. See photos below:
From video:
Note the 2 vents and how tall but short (horizontally) the fender is. Compare to this:
Above is an Alpha-1 kit on a 280Z. Compare to the following:
This is a genuine Ferrari 250GTO. Note how different the fender is to the other cars.
When in doubt, the easiest way to differentiate a Ferrari from a Datsun kit is the front fender. It would take A LOT of work to section the Z or extend the front.
-
A lot cheaper than the vise one, that's for sure. Excellent!
-
I mounted mine up front where it was hidden and would stay cool, I used a smaller 1/2 gallon tank though with a low level light. The smaller tank was plenty for normal driving and at the dragstrip I would just fill it up every so often. You could not see the tank from the outside and the entire setup was pretty hidden.
If you have a rediculous I/C this wont work though.
http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/albums/album915/verticle_IC_005.jpg
That's a nifty idea. I may be able to fit it there; my IC is only 28*8. I will mock it up. Otherwise I will probably drill out the spot welds for my battery tray and put it there.
As far as buying another tank, if I were to buy one it would be bigger and even more of a pain to shoehorn. This is going to be a weekend car for the most part, but having a smaller tank doesn't quite appeal to me.
-
Idon't have the dimensions readily available; I already have the battery relocated to the rear. The tank ALMOST fits there, but would require the removal of the tray. This may be my best option.
Also I won't be running anything more than. 50/50, so the mixture won't be flammable. The tank does have a sensor that lights an in dash LED, but it's awfully close to the bottom.
-
I've got a 1 gallon AEM water/meth tank that I am planning on mounting, and was curious to see where people are putting theirs. I had thought about a place in the engine bay, but there doesn't seem to be a good spot and I would like the double confirmation of being able to see my fluid level from the cabin. So far I was thinking about right behind the passenger seat or in the passenger floor board, but it doesn't seem to fit terribly well in either location; behind the pass seat it's slightly too tall. Of note: I will be running full interior.
-
The VG30 parts may be of interest to the Z31 folks; other than that the 2nd gen Max has little in common with the S-chassis, much unlike the 1st gen.
-
Classictube.com has fuel lines. Pretty sure they have brakes too.
-
Really? Those are Riken mesh or Epsilon mesh.
-
Maybe some foam (expanding for more permanence, but posterboard would work, too), a turbo timer? The foam you could finish with vinyl.
Heck, even some plywood until you get it working.
-
I know that yetterben has a Champion 2-core in his car and he said it works great. He also said the cores on it are HUGE.
-
Chewing gum
-
I have not gotten a chance to install them as of right now. I can tell you though the benefits of glass over plastic make the Bosch housing great.
The first AutoPALs I had were glass with plastic back; the newest set I got are glass front metal back.
-
Just be aware. It turns a loud car into a LOUD car.
-
I believe it's 92 dB
-
I have had/just got some more of the Autopal MSR headlights since I am going HID and have seen excellent results from those housings. Plus they are inexpensive, even for the sheetmetal reflector ones that I have.
-
If you don't run a relay you risk burning out the switch at best. It's a relatively cheap safeguard.
-
So I found the 'terminal blocks' on Jegs site now, but I'm not able to find the other items. Are they some type of terminal strip? How are you planning in installed these items on your build? Are you going to use one terminal block and strip for power and the other for ground?
Ya, basic terminal strips. You can get them at RadioShack for $2-$3.
-
I personally think it would be difficult to execute properly on the Z. 70s cars don't seem to have as suitable body lines as the 80s cars do.
WTB: Electric Fan, BRE front spoiler, 255Lph fuel pump, Fender Mirrors
in Parts Wanted
Posted
If you still need a fan I have a 16" on eBay that ends today that looks like it will go for pretty cheap