Jeff

Nice kill Mike It's such a shame when people can't be gracious losers. If I had just been spanked by a little Datsun I would want to know what it had in it. Ditto what Scottie said, you going out to the track on Wednesday?

Take a look at scottyMiz's car at the following links. Pic 1 and Pic 2 The aero kit looks the same on all 70-78 Z's as it eliminates the bumpers.

Holy Sh*t!! I love F1, but the current drivers don't even come close to that. Wheel to wheel racing in open wheel cars, totally awesome.

It depends on how much horsepower you are going to run, what the car is going to be used for and of course the general condition of the car. Do a search in this forum for "subframe connectors" and you will come up with a wealth of information.

I had 235/60's on 14x7 Panasports and the rears rubbed a bit. I would think if you stepped back to 225's you should be fine.

Mid to high 14's should be right on. Check out ZGad's daily driver's specs at Datsun Times

I'm not sure how the owner knows it is a stuck ring, more than likely a broken ring or worse. Regardless, if it is a problem with a ring then a tear down is in your future. An old trick for cleaning out combustion chambers is to pour a little automatic transmission fluid down the carbs while your the motor is being held at 2000 to 3000 RPM. Just don't let it stall and the smoke screen you'll create is quite impressive. I assume since it has dual webbers they are the downdraft style making this much easier. This probably will accomplish nothing, but it is worth a try. If the frame rails are rusty you can buy replacements from Zedd Findings . This is a big job and if you're not a profecient welder then you might want to pay a professional. If the rails are rusty look over the rest of the car and you will find more rust. The floor pans generally are gone too. My suggestion would be to keep looking. I jumped on one of the first Z's I found and ended up abandoning that car because of rust. I found a rust free 260 and still found a few small spots when I tore it down. Good luck in your search.

Wow that thing is beefy, 19.5 CFM @ 100 PSI. It will definetly handle anything you can throw at it. I thought I did good scoring a 6 HP 60 Gal with 10.2 CFM @ 90 PSI. It was two years old and I paid $200 for it.

Pete, Simply awesome It gives me hope that I will finish my project, even if it takes longer than I had hoped for. I'm two years into mine and it's still a bare body shell up on a rotisserie. If mine turns out even remotely close to yours I will be happy. Great job and thanks for the inspiration as well as the wealth of knowledge on your site.

Many years ago I dropped a 400 ci Pontiac motor off one of the tripod stands. I was rolling it and the front wheel hit a piece of trash causing the stand to flex and the back wheels jump off the ground. I tried to catch it and then I was very lucky to get out of its way as it crashed to the ground. Sadly enough this was a fresh motor that I was about to install in my GTO. Didn't damage the motor too badly but I can't imagine what it would of done to me. Don't take any chances with those three wheel stands, it's not worth it.

If you want to check out what times other Z cars are running go to http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/Times.html You can check out Scottie's car at http://home.cfl.rr.com/scottiegnz/gnz.html and just below the pics is a link that will show you the car when it had the L28ET.

It's the initial tooling costs that drive the price up. A tool or mold that can heat form those headlight covers might cost $10,000 and of course their is a left and right tool. If the manufacturer is making $20.00 per pair then they need to sell a 1000 pairs to pay for the tools. Only then do they start to make money. Glad to have another Orlando guy on the board. I've seen your turbo posts and we have two locals running turbo setups. ScottieGNZ is running a Buick Grand National motor and ZGad is running a 3.1 stroker turbo. Scottie frequents the drag strip on Wednesday nights, have to get you out there some time. He had an L28ET before the Buick motor and is a wealth of knowledge. I will email you next time I know we are going out.

Get some latex gloves and you can use your fingers to work those intricate areas. Keep some acetone handy to get the resin build up off your gloves while your doing this. If you move on to larger areas you will want to precut the cloth to shape, wet the cloth with resin and the apply the wet cloth to your area. They make a special roller to smooth the cloth and get the air out. Keep playing with it you'll get the hang of it.

Lets see if we can hit the rest of these. 1. Spraying the foam with primer is fine. This is just an aid to help it release later. It still will not come out completely clean, just use a little acetone if you want it all gone. 2. I prefer the polyester or fiberglass resin over the epoxy simply because it sets faster. 3. The following is a quote from Lone, he describes it perfectly. Hope this helps, once you give it a try you'll find it's not that difficult. Don't forget to always wear a pair of latex gloves when you're working with fiberglass and/or acetone.

I didn't see your post until this morning. I was the one talking about negative draft and multiple part molds. This doesn't apply in your case because your are fabricating a custom part and not a mold. Molds are used to cast multilple parts from. Once you have your part fabricated you could use it to pull a mold from. Lone's explanation is very good and takes you through step by step. The fiberglass will not need to be very thick for this application, 1/8" to 3/16" should be fine. You will need to remove the foam as it will prevent you from being able to install the gauges and the foam will release easier if you coat it first. The fiberglass will be rough and you will need to sand and body fill to your desired finish. I would use a texture paint to try and match the other plastic panels in the vehicle. Just take your time it's not that difficult and the materials are very forgiving. You can fix just about any mistake you make.

Hey Syndicate, I have a fresh L28 bottom end with dished pistons if you're interested. This is not a turbo block, but will yield approx 8.5 with a N42 or N47 head. Rotating assembly has been balanced, new piston, rings, ARP studs, gasket kit, oil pump and timing chain. Not going to use it now that I am going V8 power. Let me know.

Havok, I made my cut along the transmission tunnel about an inch too long so that when I droped the pan in there would be an overlap between the two pieces. Take a look at the pics below and hopefully this will help. This type of joint allows for moisture to be traped so you will need to seam seal them well. Hope this helps. 1stGenZ, You can see where the pan stops in relation to the firewall. Havok has good pics on what he did to fill this in.

Looks like your doing a great job. I know what a PIA it is when the rust extends beyond the new pan. That pan to firewall transition has some compound curves that make it difficult. The Zedd Findings pan does not fit well against the transmission tunnel on the passenger side, or at least that is where mine was difficult. I did an overlap joint there and used sheet metal screws to draw everything tight before I began welding. It required a bunch of trial fitting and hammering before it would follow the contour of the tunnel. Keep up the good work and good luck with it.

OMG!! Those Packards are beautiful Thanks for sharing with us.

I pulled front and rear suspension first, but I have seen photos of cars on rotisseries with the suspension still in place. Not sure how beefy your rotisserie is, but I doubt the added weight would be a problem. I would pull the differential to be safe, but that's just me.

Way to go Scotty. Sounds like all the hard work will be worth it. Get that thing broken in and the proper seats in there before you go embarrasing any Camaro's though . Let us know when you turn up the boost and how it does.

Way to go!! You are miles ahead dollars wise with that one. Put the finishing touches on it and go tear up some asphalt .

Eric, I sent you what pics I have, although very poor quality. I built the rotisserie using these plans James, I believe you are correct on the pivot points. Mine gets very heavy at one point when I'm rotating it. Be careful mounting it, I did mine by myself and almost dropped it. I had the front mounted and was lifting the rear in place using my floor jack. When I slid the rear pivot point in place it forced the front pivot point apart and the entire car was balancing on the floor jack . I was able to catch it and shove a couple of jack stands under it. So when you get that first pivot point together make sure and lock it down

I would use the bumper mounting points as they are higher up and closer to the cars centerline. I've got mine a little off center and it gets heavy in one spot when your rotating it. The 240 shell is very light, guessing somewhere in the 300 to 400 pound range, and the bumper mounts should hold this no problem. I promised Terry, blueovalz, that I would weigh my shell on the rotisserie but haven't done that yet, life keeps getting in the way.

Not that I'm an engineer, but I will give you my .02 worth. My first concern would be threading into the aluminum unless you are going to machine a pocket for the hub. Of course this makes the aluminum even thiner at that area. My second concern would be the shear induced during cornering on a relatively thin piece of aluminum. I would think the weak point would be where the hub stops and the aluminum cantilevers beyond that point. Again, no engineer just my opinion.